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A reliable fd3s rear end? What works?
How do you keep the rear end (diff) from tearing itself apart, what are you running? Launch kit? What type og diff? Suspension, and springrates? Diff brace og cradle? Gear box mounts? What kind of tyres have you found produce the least wheel hop/ tire shake? Alignment settings? Exploded a diff last summer, it was a stock thorsen. I need a setup that can take a beating 😁 The 450hp 2 rotor fd will hold together i think, but its with the 3 rotor im afraid of blowing upp a diff. Pumpkins are getting harder to find, and quite expensive 😒 Want to be able to do a few drift events this year 😁 I realy hope you could point me in the right direction 🙂 I do not want to do a 8,8 swap. i need the strongest possible solution. -Andreas |
Buy a TII Clutch LSD diff. It is more durable than the Torsen, but you will probably break it eventually. You’d be better off doing the 8.8 swap at your power level. |
Saw this the other day, if I'm not mistaken, looks like a Winters - if it's the usual kiwi practice. :)
Facebook Post |
Originally Posted by billyboy
(Post 12278308)
Saw this the other day, if I'm not mistaken, looks like a Winters - if it's the usual kiwi practice. :)
https://www.facebook.com/madmike.w/p...type=3&theater A trans worth more than the car. Put an 8.8 in the car with the gear ratio and diff you want, and move on with your life. You'll never have to worry about it again. |
Originally Posted by LargeOrangeFont
(Post 12278336)
A trans worth more than the car.
Put an 8.8 in the car with the gear ratio and diff you want, and move on with your life. You'll never have to worry about it again. |
I do not want to do a 8,8 swap. i need the strongest possible solution. -Andreas If you want to use the stock differential case I will outline your strongest scenario. Differential- OS Giken Super Lock- highest number of clutch plates (28) for longest service intervals and most gray area in lock-up http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/medi...gikendiff3.jpg HPI 2 in 1 Differential brace- This piece wraps around the thin cast iron differential case to reinforce it (cracking the case is the usual failure mode) as well as tying the differential nose back into the unibody to prevent the twisting movement through the case that cracks it. Born from SCCA SSM competition. http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/diffbraceinstall1.jpg https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...27705642824270 Banzai Racing transmission crossmember- This piece ties the transmission to the chassis where the stock Aluminum brace would be. Limits the twisting force from the engine transmitted through the transmission to the powerplant frame down to the differential. http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/transbraceafter1.jpg Your choice of aftermarket motor mounts- Limit twisting force placed on trans, ppf, diff. Diff mounts??? IDK. If you reinforce everything else and leave stock diff bushings you may cushion the differential case from twisting and impact the most with the stock liquid filled mounts. Harder mounts on the fragile differential case could increase forces transmitted through the case. If you do a 8.8 or other diff swap you basically need to do all the above as well- although specific pieces may vary. |
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
(Post 12278712)
Not sure if you mean you do not want to do the 8.8 swap or you don't want to do any swap and holding up the 8.8 as example of most typical swap.
If you want to use the stock differential case I will outline your strongest scenario. Differential- OS Giken Super Lock- highest number of clutch plates (28) for longest service intervals and most gray area in lock-up http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/medi...gikendiff3.jpg HPI 2 in 1 Differential brace- This piece wraps around the thin cast iron differential case to reinforce it (cracking the case is the usual failure mode) as well as tying the differential nose back into the unibody to prevent the twisting movement through the case that cracks it. Born from SCCA SSM competition. http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/diffbraceinstall1.jpg https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...27705642824270 Banzai Racing transmission crossmember- This piece ties the transmission to the chassis where the stock Aluminum brace would be. Limits the twisting force from the engine transmitted through the transmission to the powerplant frame down to the differential. http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/transbraceafter1.jpg Your choice of aftermarket motor mounts- Limit twisting force placed on trans, ppf, diff. Diff mounts??? IDK. If you reinforce everything else and leave stock diff bushings you may cushion the differential case from twisting and impact the most with the stock liquid filled mounts. Harder mounts on the fragile differential case could increase forces transmitted through the case. If you do a 8.8 or other diff swap you basically need to do all the above as well- although specific pieces may vary. OS Giken Diff, urethane Diff mounts, banzai trans brace and the Diff cradle. Don’t forget the Chromoly Axles... add a Greddy cover and a Diff cooler. The Greddy cover allows additional fluid and has bungs for a cooler. |
So you spend all that money on diffs and bracing and you are still stuck with a 4.10 or a 3.90 rear gear? I guess that is a better option if those gears choices work for you. I’ve noticed that the FDs do run pretty high diff temps. |
4.30,4.77 and 5.12 rear gears available too.
Remember, rotary. |
ZoomZoom and blue TII. this is what i am thinking to do. any real life experience on how this setup holds upp? i have banzai poly diff and engine mounts. want to make the most of the eom pumpkin, and gearbox. 8.8 is to extreme for me. also there are no 8.8 diffs laying around at junkyards in norway. they are both road cars, and keeping the mazda driveline would be great if something still gives, i will have to limit traction. |
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