I installed mine recently, along with the diff risers. The SF risers just fell into the SF... kindof questionable I think. Also, they did not fit my SF studs snugly at all... Am I missing something here? I had a shop press out my stock SF bushings and all they left was the very outer ring, which seems legit.

I installed the SF risers according to the pics I keep seeing... cup part in the SF and domed part on top. I'm also getting a bit of a clunk on accel and deccel, which makes sense seeing as the risers are not completely snug to the studs or the SF. Any help with this is appreciated.

oh and my front diff mount is stock but in good condition.

 

Just got off the phone with PBM's US office. Turns out I should use some epoxy/etc in the subframe cup and that even the top part of the riser is supposed to fit loose. Once everything is torqued there should be no problem.

Mods please leave this in case anyone else searches

 

It also helps to have their solid diff risers and front diff mount, this pretty much locks everything else into place and keeps everything from flexing. Upgrading one point on the suspension puts a lot more stress on everything else until you upgrade it as well

 

Yeah, I have the full PBM rear and It will be a bit more noisy in the back compared to stock, but everything is nice and solid.

 

I do have the diff risers as well, and the adjustable camber link.

I resurrected this thread to say that it seems my subframe likes to shift out of alignment as of late. Just had the car aligned. Turned left onto the street from the shop and it felt straight as hell. Perfect. Made a right turn and after straightening out I noticed the car wanted to pull to the right. Then after I made another left it was cool again.
Yay. I'm gonna try to torque everything down and see if that helps. If not I'm either going back to stock pieces for the subframe and diff or have sleeves machined so that the top piece of the subframe risers fits the subframe stud snugly and cannot shift like it is doing now.

Also, I am on the stock camber bones but my camber is unequal left to right. So much for PBM's claim of evening the rear camber.

 

I thought I was the only one with this problem. Let us know if torquing them more fixes the problem, mine are torqued at 90 ft/lbs and still clunks

 

I can't see how the diff bushings and or subframe riser is "shifting", those bolt holes were SNUG when installed. I did have an issue where the spherical trailing arm bushing were shifting back and forth causing a bit of an issue, but I welded them into place and never looking back.

food for thought.

 

Which part did you weld exactly? Did this eliminate your toe adjustment?

My subframe and diff bushings fit the subframe and diff snugly enough, but are nowhere near fitted to the studs on the body. Say the OD of the studs are 20mm. The ID of the subframe bushings are like 30mm. Just to clarify.

 

I just welded ears to the edge of the trailing arm bushing opening to keep the spherical in place as mine was shifting around.

That's strange you mention the ID and the OD being different. The bushings I received, both were snug as hell and took some work to get the assembly back in. I drive my car hard and the only thing that has moved on me since instal were those pesky trailing arm bushings. It would toe out and in at random from the arm shifting position.



Give Dan an email at psm, and ask him whats going on. They always respond. Maybe you got a miss machined set.

I did notice the old "castle washer" for the diff mount has to be installed correctly or I could see that moving a bit.

 

I did talk to them on the phone and they told me that my bushings were fine.

It's been raining here pretty good lately with this west coast storm going on. When things dry up I'm going to get the car up in the air and have a look

 

Is this to say that you welded the little spacers to the eccentric plate?
Sure would appreciate a pic/drawing/visual.

 

I tried to take a picture, but cars too low to get in there. It's just little metal tabs on the outer edges of where the bushing would go.

It is the only place on my chassis in the rear that still had flex.

If you still do not understand I will try to get the car in the air and show you. I need to get this pig on stands soon anyways.