oil pan mods?
05-03-10, 12:47 AM
#1
oil pan mods?
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/m...1-p-53187.html
I've seen this, i've seen the atkins "baffle" plate that sandwiches between the "block" and pan.
I've seen dry sumps (for ballers) but what are you bastards doing on the cheap and do you think the above pan/mods are worth it?
I've seen this, i've seen the atkins "baffle" plate that sandwiches between the "block" and pan.
I've seen dry sumps (for ballers) but what are you bastards doing on the cheap and do you think the above pan/mods are worth it?
05-04-10, 01:47 PM
#2
I installed a baffle plate from racing beat in a club member's 10AE.. probably the cheapest oil mod you can do, it was like 55 bucks.
Originally we were set to do his pan gasket but he figured might as well just throw the plate in since we will be down there anyways.
Originally we were set to do his pan gasket but he figured might as well just throw the plate in since we will be down there anyways.
05-04-10, 01:52 PM
#3
You hear that **** about happy meals becoming outlawed in your county?
I kinda ask because i was going to be a lazy **** and just put a bulkhead fitting on my pan for an oil drain, hope for the best and ****. About the pan, not happy meals.
I kinda ask because i was going to be a lazy **** and just put a bulkhead fitting on my pan for an oil drain, hope for the best and ****. About the pan, not happy meals.
05-04-10, 07:48 PM
#5
Anyways they sell quick drain-drain plugs if that is what you are trying to do.
05-05-10, 12:43 PM
#6
Agreed.
For turbo. Na-t. Ghetto style.
But since i'm having the pan off i figured i'd ask. No need for a quick drain. Changing oil/filters on an fc is godsend compared to most cars i've done in the past.
This is straight porno. Good price too!
http://www.pineappleracing.com/fcaluminumoilpan.aspx
Anyone have pics of the inside? This looks like it will work better than the rb plate.
For turbo. Na-t. Ghetto style.
But since i'm having the pan off i figured i'd ask. No need for a quick drain. Changing oil/filters on an fc is godsend compared to most cars i've done in the past.
This is straight porno. Good price too!
http://www.pineappleracing.com/fcaluminumoilpan.aspx
Anyone have pics of the inside? This looks like it will work better than the rb plate.
Trending Topics
05-12-10, 09:15 PM
#10
As much as you do rebuilds, that is a freaking requirement.
No, seriously. Those oem 10mm head thin shank fine pitch things they use to fix the oil pan in place to prevent leaking is a JOKE.
Other Daniel (leed): No worky.
Right click
copy image url
Paste
Type [img]inserturlhere[/img]
That's really the only way i've had html work on most forums Old school code does not work.
Definately have the boss take more sexy foto of the pan plz. Like a boss....
No, seriously. Those oem 10mm head thin shank fine pitch things they use to fix the oil pan in place to prevent leaking is a JOKE.
Other Daniel (leed): No worky.
Right click
copy image url
Paste
Type [img]inserturlhere[/img]
That's really the only way i've had html work on most forums Old school code does not work.
Definately have the boss take more sexy foto of the pan plz. Like a boss....
05-19-10, 02:44 PM
#13
No...THIS is oil pan baffling: http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fdoilpan.htm
The plate provided with the GZ/Pineapple cast pan helps but is merely a small bandaid.
I've also used the "atkins" style baffle plate with an OEM pan in both a 2g (my old ITS racecar) and 3g (track monster
) cars and they help...a little. But to really stop oil slosh/starvation issues you need real baffling down in the pan where the oil is.
Regards,
Crispy
The plate provided with the GZ/Pineapple cast pan helps but is merely a small bandaid.
I've also used the "atkins" style baffle plate with an OEM pan in both a 2g (my old ITS racecar) and 3g (track monster
) cars and they help...a little. But to really stop oil slosh/starvation issues you need real baffling down in the pan where the oil is.Regards,
Crispy
05-22-11, 08:36 PM
#19
No...THIS is oil pan baffling: http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fdoilpan.htm
The plate provided with the GZ/Pineapple cast pan helps but is merely a small bandaid.
I've also used the "atkins" style baffle plate with an OEM pan in both a 2g (my old ITS racecar) and 3g (track monster ) cars and they help...a little. But to really stop oil slosh/starvation issues you need real baffling down in the pan where the oil is.
Regards,
Crispy
The plate provided with the GZ/Pineapple cast pan helps but is merely a small bandaid.
I've also used the "atkins" style baffle plate with an OEM pan in both a 2g (my old ITS racecar) and 3g (track monster
) cars and they help...a little. But to really stop oil slosh/starvation issues you need real baffling down in the pan where the oil is.Regards,
Crispy
Nice work! This is exactly what I'm considering doing to my FB oil pan (see the cardboard mockup pieces in the picture). A few questions:
1. What has your real world experience been? Have you seen it resolve an oil starvation issue, or is it more that you know it must be better?
2. How is the oil drain? It seems like your baffles seal off fairly well and it would take a loooong time to drain all the oil.
3. I've seen the BMW baffle flaps used in other applications. Did you consider metal doors too? What are the relative advantages?
05-23-11, 09:07 AM
#20
1. real world appl is good. I've not had ANY oil starvation issues and typically can run the oil level WAY down on the dipstick without issues. But just don't forget to extend the pickup tube to take full advantage of the added depth of the pan.
2. the drain is a little slower but not that much more....I always open both drain plug and is seems to be fine. Although i must admit I usually open them up and then putter around for about 30 minutes doing something else while it drains.
3. I considered the metal doors but liked the OEM design attributes of the rubber doors. If it was good enough for an M3 it certainly should be good enough for me. Plus they were much easier to install. Just drill a hole cut the slot and pop them in....no welding required.
BTW your mockup looks good.
Regards,
Crispy
2. the drain is a little slower but not that much more....I always open both drain plug and is seems to be fine. Although i must admit I usually open them up and then putter around for about 30 minutes doing something else while it drains.
3. I considered the metal doors but liked the OEM design attributes of the rubber doors. If it was good enough for an M3 it certainly should be good enough for me. Plus they were much easier to install. Just drill a hole cut the slot and pop them in....no welding required.
BTW your mockup looks good.
Regards,
Crispy
05-24-11, 09:39 AM
#22
My car is green
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Reading PA
Posts: 332
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was going to make a recessed sump area on a stock pan about an inch deep with a piece of 3inch pipe and extend the pickup to drop into it and add some baffled and piano hinge... I talked with Dave at KDR about it for like an hour and he was all about it. Then I thought, well why not just hack up a stock pan and make an awesome higher capacity pan with the windage trays and all... Then I bought a pineapple pan and never thought about the oil pan I was going to build until now.
The pineapple pan is a really nice piece. Just make sure they have them in stock. I had to wait a month for mine.... But it was well worth the wait.
The pineapple pan is a really nice piece. Just make sure they have them in stock. I had to wait a month for mine.... But it was well worth the wait.
06-02-11, 10:35 PM
#25
Progress Update
Since my car's an FB, I don't know of any aftermarket oil pans. Plus, I tend to end up off the road course from time to time, and I don't want something that hangs down below the crossmember in harm's way.
I debated what to make this thing out of, and I finally decided on aluminum that just sits in the pan for a few reasons:
1. I had plenty of it laying around
2. It's thick enough that it wouldn't deform while I made the pieces, which is important so my trap doors won't bind
3. Since it's not welded, it won't deform, once again so the trap doors won't bind
4. I can cut and form it marginally faster than steel
5. I have a "windage tray" to keep the thing in place
The aluminum piano hinges took a bit of work to make them swing freely. I removed the pin and turned it down a bit, and I also removed a little material from the back side of each swinging portion to reduce friction. Lastly, I used cotter pins to fix 'em in place on the side baffles. It wasn't necessary on the rear baffle, since the side baffles prevent the pin from sliding out.
I left a thin strip of aluminum on the side baffle doors that I bent downward to limit travel to about 45 deg. I didn't want the doors to flip all the way upward and get stuck in that position. The rear trap door hits the center hinge on the side baffles, effectively limiting its travel by the same amount.
The trap doors all swing freely, and there's no way they can get hung up on one another, since the rear door swings through a higher plane than the side ones.
Now the questions:
A. The baffle plate or "windage tray" is supposed to slow the return of oil to the pan so it has a chance to defoam / dearate. Why does oil dearate better on a thin plate than in the sump?
B. Where should the holes in my "windage tray" be located? I'm considering making a new one (since I have the metal laying around). If you look at the picture, would it be better to have a larger hole over the central sump where the oil pickup is so more oil would go directly there?
I debated what to make this thing out of, and I finally decided on aluminum that just sits in the pan for a few reasons:
1. I had plenty of it laying around
2. It's thick enough that it wouldn't deform while I made the pieces, which is important so my trap doors won't bind
3. Since it's not welded, it won't deform, once again so the trap doors won't bind
4. I can cut and form it marginally faster than steel
5. I have a "windage tray" to keep the thing in place
The aluminum piano hinges took a bit of work to make them swing freely. I removed the pin and turned it down a bit, and I also removed a little material from the back side of each swinging portion to reduce friction. Lastly, I used cotter pins to fix 'em in place on the side baffles. It wasn't necessary on the rear baffle, since the side baffles prevent the pin from sliding out.
I left a thin strip of aluminum on the side baffle doors that I bent downward to limit travel to about 45 deg. I didn't want the doors to flip all the way upward and get stuck in that position. The rear trap door hits the center hinge on the side baffles, effectively limiting its travel by the same amount.
The trap doors all swing freely, and there's no way they can get hung up on one another, since the rear door swings through a higher plane than the side ones.
Now the questions:
A. The baffle plate or "windage tray" is supposed to slow the return of oil to the pan so it has a chance to defoam / dearate. Why does oil dearate better on a thin plate than in the sump?
B. Where should the holes in my "windage tray" be located? I'm considering making a new one (since I have the metal laying around). If you look at the picture, would it be better to have a larger hole over the central sump where the oil pickup is so more oil would go directly there?