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The Official N/A Drifting Thread

Old Mar 3, 2008 | 12:34 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by USS CJ
Dont listen to this guy.

He has some good points, and stiffer mounts are beneficial, but that money would be better spent on suspension, a new seat or steering wheel.


Drifting doesnt require perfect thottle response, and a perfectly set up car, it requires you to go out, drive, and have fun, thats all that matters.
On the contrary, DO listen to that guy! What you said right there /\ is true, and while you dont need em, a stiffer driveline does WONDERS! A stiffer driveline gives you better feedback. I know exactly what that guy is trying to say. If your mounts are mush, then the driveline twists like crazy, before it can put that power to the wheels, so you get rubbish feedback from the car, which hinders your driving. Dont know about you, but I hate a car which gives me bad feedback as I'm driving it at the limit. Instead of getting coilovers, I would spring for the poly bushing set first, as well as DTSS eliminators.
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 07:30 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Roen
if theory was 100% accurate, it would work fine, but it's not and disturbs handling at the limit if you're not used to it.

Eliminate it, it's a lot of money to replace it with new hubs. (Over $1k)
so the you jsut have to replace the huibs to eliminate it?
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 08:53 PM
  #128  
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no, that's if you want to replace the system. It's a lot cheaper to buy the stiff bushing and use that to eliminate the system.
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 09:33 PM
  #129  
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Buy the bushings, its way cheaper and easier. Plus you end up with the same result. I'd recommend everyone replace them anyways. If you've never driven a car that has bad dtss bushing let me tell you its a sure way to a butthole pucker moment in a hard corner.
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 11:28 AM
  #130  
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From: hamilton, jerz
quick question while were on the topic of suspension.. can coilovers made for the fd be used on a second gen? whenever you get a chance to explain the differences LMK thank you
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 11:51 AM
  #131  
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No, unless your going to completely reengineer the suspension design, which well, isnt very likely.

2nd gen has macpherson struts up front, with semi trailing arm in the rear.
3rd gen has double wishbones all around.
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 11:53 AM
  #132  
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thanks
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 10:30 PM
  #133  
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So question, for drifting a na, do you want the rear softer then the front? Im thinking hondas still and i know you wanted the rear stiffer so you could reduce understeer...
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 04:57 PM
  #134  
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It all depends on drivers preference but most people run stiffer up front. 8kg/6kg is most common. But I have seen 11kg/9kg on some drivers setups and they were pro. It all depends on what you like and how you want your car to react to certain cituations.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 11:02 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Roen
no, that's if you want to replace the system. It's a lot cheaper to buy the stiff bushing and use that to eliminate the system.
is that the same thing as the corksport toe-steer eliminators?
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 04:27 AM
  #136  
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hey guys new here but here is some of my set up. Fill free to talk smack , but I make it work.

1986 fc3s

megan coilovers street set, 8kf-6kr
dampening depends on the track
mazdatrix angle kit
toe steer eliminators
no sway bars, testing
6 degrees caster front custom
1 degree camber front
0.5 degrees rear camber
18x10 front and rear rims
225x35x18 f 245x3518 r
all solid bushings
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:04 AM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by batmanfc
is that the same thing as the corksport toe-steer eliminators?
Yes, all "toe eliminator systems" work similarly, it's pretty much a rigid bushing. Just buy the cheapest one that fits.

Originally Posted by Jeff Jones
hey guys new here but here is some of my set up. Fill free to talk smack , but I make it work.

1986 fc3s

megan coilovers street set, 8kf-6kr
dampening depends on the track
mazdatrix angle kit
toe steer eliminators
no sway bars, testing
6 degrees caster front custom
1 degree camber front
0.5 degrees rear camber
18x10 front and rear rims
225x35x18 f 245x3518 r
all solid bushings
You ever thought about going 10/8?
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 04:52 AM
  #138  
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i know this forum is kinda old but why does everybody keep on saying to buy a new steering wheel?
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 05:35 AM
  #139  
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I might try a softer spring in the rear for more push.
but no not yet.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 07:48 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by Red_Rabbit86
i know this forum is kinda old but why does everybody keep on saying to buy a new steering wheel?
More leg clearance, some people prefer aftermarket steering wheels over the stocker?
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 07:49 AM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Jones
I might try a softer spring in the rear for more push.
but no not yet.
I would think that drift setups would be understeering pigs, since, once you get the car sideways via weight shifting, you want the front to move as little as possible as you are throttle steering, making it easier to get on the power harder while sliding.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 12:32 PM
  #142  
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i would think softer rears would only hurt the underpowered N/A..

i was talking to a guy with a SOHC s13 and he was telling me he was running fully soft springs/shocks but really beefy sway bars. i rode in his car and he was pretty sick
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 10:45 AM
  #143  
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never said my car was N/A

I dont know how that post got in the N/A thread
I posted that in the setups thread.
O well ya my cars about 350hp
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Old May 11, 2008 | 04:24 PM
  #144  
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i need some help/advice..

been trying to practice my 2nd gear drifts, and im having trouble. i can get the tires loose, and either slide for a second before it whips back and im driving straight, or i'll spin. been using clutch kick for the most part. have i just not found the sweet spot in the rpm's yet to hold the drift or what?

it doesn't whip around like dtss, its more like im not giving it enough gas. but then (to me) if i give it any more it just whips around.

stance gr+ coils, kaaz lsd, dtss eliminators.

maybe its my suspension settings? ive been playing around with it, could use some advice on that too. the stance coils are 15-way adjustable as far as the shocks go. the last track day i was running 9 in the front, 10 in the rear, and i talked to an experienced buddy and he was telling me to try like 10 front/9 rear, or even 12/10. but whenever i put more in the front i understeer =(
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Old May 11, 2008 | 05:15 PM
  #145  
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Putting money into suspension is a good idea, but you do need a little more power then stock. It sounds like your car's engine is stock (no exhaust, intake etc). Depending on how much money you have to play with I recommend upgrading your exhaust and making a cold air box (search the forum). If you have little to no money, then at least gut your cats (all three) and buy a cheap canister muffler (stock mufflers + gutted cats sound like crap). If you have more money then Buy a full exhaust system. Most people on this forum would recommend Racing Beat or Borola. I personally like the sound of straight piped Apex'i N1s. Our cars are too quiet stock to be drifting, I bet you couldn't even hear where you where in your RPM band most of the time (compare your car's sound to the open downpipe KA-T that was there, or even some of the other S chasies). Once you upgrade your exhaust, you will not only have more power to sustain your slides, you will also be able to hear your car better and therefor be able to learn where you need to apply more/less throttle in your drifts by sound. One of the only ways to make up for being underpowered is to go faster. Work on getting comfortable a higher speeds (2nd gear 5k around the sweeper then clutch kick into the turn and floor it to sustain the drift). I am writing this and forgot if you mentioned any steering angle mods. Mazdatrix is the best way to go, but if you dont have the money you can just add spacers like everyone else. Work on your steering too. Try different approaches. turn, clutch, gas, release clutch, throttle + steering adjustments.
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Old May 11, 2008 | 05:44 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by 0verb00st
Putting money into suspension is a good idea, but you do need a little more power then stock. It sounds like your car's engine is stock (no exhaust, intake etc). Depending on how much money you have to play with I recommend upgrading your exhaust and making a cold air box (search the forum). If you have little to no money, then at least gut your cats (all three) and buy a cheap canister muffler (stock mufflers + gutted cats sound like crap). If you have more money then Buy a full exhaust system. Most people on this forum would recommend Racing Beat or Borola. I personally like the sound of straight piped Apex'i N1s. Our cars are too quiet stock to be drifting, I bet you couldn't even hear where you where in your RPM band most of the time (compare your car's sound to the open downpipe KA-T that was there, or even some of the other S chasies). Once you upgrade your exhaust, you will not only have more power to sustain your slides, you will also be able to hear your car better and therefor be able to learn where you need to apply more/less throttle in your drifts by sound. One of the only ways to make up for being underpowered is to go faster. Work on getting comfortable a higher speeds (2nd gear 5k around the sweeper then clutch kick into the turn and floor it to sustain the drift). I am writing this and forgot if you mentioned any steering angle mods. Mazdatrix is the best way to go, but if you dont have the money you can just add spacers like everyone else. Work on your steering too. Try different approaches. turn, clutch, gas, release clutch, throttle + steering adjustments.
great post man,

engine is completely stock, from airbox to mufflers, with an exhaust leak. my car is definately the queitest car out there drifting. i had never really thought about intake/exhaust since money was tight, and didn't think the extra 5-10 hp would make a difference. also what should i do about the 6-port, since i myself prefer straight exhaust with no cats as well. or is that 10hp loss not really a big deal when it comes to drifting? i've also seen ebay "rx7" test pipes with some weird looking pipe coming out of it, pretty sure it'd take a little modification to make work with 6 port.

i'll definately get my exhaust goin, straight pipe to dual n1's ftw
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Old May 11, 2008 | 06:38 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by Tatakai
i need some help/advice..

been trying to practice my 2nd gear drifts, and im having trouble. i can get the tires loose, and either slide for a second before it whips back and im driving straight, or i'll spin. been using clutch kick for the most part. have i just not found the sweet spot in the rpm's yet to hold the drift or what?

it doesn't whip around like dtss, its more like im not giving it enough gas. but then (to me) if i give it any more it just whips around.

stance gr+ coils, kaaz lsd, dtss eliminators.

maybe its my suspension settings? ive been playing around with it, could use some advice on that too. the stance coils are 15-way adjustable as far as the shocks go. the last track day i was running 9 in the front, 10 in the rear, and i talked to an experienced buddy and he was telling me to try like 10 front/9 rear, or even 12/10. but whenever i put more in the front i understeer =(
sounds like a slight power issue, you might be too under powered to fully take advantage of the suspension set up you have. what kind of tires do you run front and back? if you're having issues with pushing, try better tires. what kind of rims do you run? theres alot of variables that might be causing some of those issues.
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Old May 11, 2008 | 08:17 PM
  #148  
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I just zip tied mine open...didnt really notice any bogging/power loss down low especially after gutting the cats and you never have to worry about the ports opening since they are always open. Best temporary fix until you swap the engine (im assuming you will go turbo in the future). I recommend Pro-Muffler & Breaks. The guy knows what hes doing. It will cost you 80-100 (depending on if you go single or dual and if you get a catback welded and gut your own cats or just rock a straight pipe). He welded mine up in around 10min and his welds are top notch.

The address is: 2129 Wall Street Everett, WA 98201
Phone number is: 425-257-1090

Buy your own canister muffler and take it to him to weld you up what you want.

Last edited by 0verb00st; May 11, 2008 at 08:22 PM.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 01:42 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by sadrmmr04
sounds like a slight power issue, you might be too under powered to fully take advantage of the suspension set up you have. what kind of tires do you run front and back? if you're having issues with pushing, try better tires. what kind of rims do you run? theres alot of variables that might be causing some of those issues.
225/45-17 front and back, i think my next set will be 215/45's for sure. also my wheel offset is pretty lame, it's like +35 front +42 rear, like oem replacement offsets.. sticky front tires, and whatevers decent rears. haven't been able to find a federal dealer, so i started using nexen/lexani n300's, which i like.

im definately going to be getting exhaust done this week.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 04:29 PM
  #150  
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im acctually looking for some federals too, i gotta talk to my friend and find out where he gets his. as for the front ill probably end up running some Falken Azenis RTs
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