help me setup my fd for drifting
04-27-09, 10:31 PM
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Sammamish Washington
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
help me setup my fd for drifting
I need help setting the car up for drifting as the title says. i have a pretty good start. so far it has stance gr+pro coilovers with 10k springs. Its has a big single turbo and makes quite a bit of power. bad part is it takes quite awhile to spool it up.
I need help pick some parts.
WHAT DO I NEED!?!?!
so far I've decided to get new toe links, trailing arms, and swaybars. suggestions on best brands would be helpful.
any other parts you think i will need or help for drifting please feel free to chime in.
Top 10 most important parts you need to drift. anything helps
I need help pick some parts.
WHAT DO I NEED!?!?!
so far I've decided to get new toe links, trailing arms, and swaybars. suggestions on best brands would be helpful.
any other parts you think i will need or help for drifting please feel free to chime in.
Top 10 most important parts you need to drift. anything helps
04-27-09, 11:06 PM
#2
seat time...
tons of seat time. learn to slide the car stock, and upgrade/repair as it breaks.
get tons of tires, and make sure the car gets all the proper maintenance/reliability mods as you can afford them.
get the cooling system incheck first and foremost..
fd's are snap happy. i got to slide my friends R1, and that thing was a handfull compared to an FC.
tons of seat time. learn to slide the car stock, and upgrade/repair as it breaks.
get tons of tires, and make sure the car gets all the proper maintenance/reliability mods as you can afford them.
get the cooling system incheck first and foremost..
fd's are snap happy. i got to slide my friends R1, and that thing was a handfull compared to an FC.
04-27-09, 11:14 PM
#3
Then again I've never driven an FD (ever) so I can't compare.
From a friend, and this is just drifting in general not FD specific.
Originally Posted by thrwnsprkz
three things to do after you get your car runing...
diff,
good clutch,
coilovers
after that...
seat/ harness
and steering wheel
You wouldnt believe the world of differnce, not sliding around inside your car makes.
and a wheel helps all that much more too
diff,
good clutch,
coilovers
after that...
seat/ harness
and steering wheel
You wouldnt believe the world of differnce, not sliding around inside your car makes.
and a wheel helps all that much more too
04-28-09, 01:28 AM
#5
Dunno if fd chassis is all that different from fc but when i removed my sway bars.....wow. Made ALOT of difference in handling. All the snap my car had is now gone. It's not sloppy by any means. Just butter smooth for drifting and just driving in general. If you have good coilovers, you dont need the sway bars anyway for roll control.
Try it out when you get a chance!
Alot of guys say angle mods are a band aid but i raise the bs flag and say anyone who drifts can benifit from angle mods. Even if you dont use it all, you wont be spinning out as much.
Try it out when you get a chance!
Alot of guys say angle mods are a band aid but i raise the bs flag and say anyone who drifts can benifit from angle mods. Even if you dont use it all, you wont be spinning out as much.
04-28-09, 01:43 AM
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Sammamish Washington
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
one more question i have. my spring rates on my coilovers are 10k all around. should i go higher? should i make it so the rear is softer then the front. input greatly appreciated. if i should change it what spring rates should i go with?
04-28-09, 07:56 AM
#7
That is the dumbest arguement ever. Sure it helps to learn with less angle. It makes you learn better car control, but when you get better, you want more angle because its fun as hell.
Trending Topics
04-28-09, 09:17 AM
#8
wow at this thread.. (not op)
anyway. you need seat time and a smaller turbo. car snappyness is directly related to toe and camber settings. if it snaps too much then dial out some front toe. run close to 0 or even -.5* feels strange in the straight but you have better turn in. keep your camber angles low too. better tire contact patch will keep you in control of your car. but the main thing is drive drive drive and def keep your cooling/reliability mods at the top of the list. if you still have issues learning on the fd, go buy a 500$ s13 and play with that for a few months, it will help you get the basics down and show you how to point the car, some throttle control and how to act instead of react.
10k spring rates seem a bit high but once you get used to it you should be fine.
anyway. you need seat time and a smaller turbo. car snappyness is directly related to toe and camber settings. if it snaps too much then dial out some front toe. run close to 0 or even -.5* feels strange in the straight but you have better turn in. keep your camber angles low too. better tire contact patch will keep you in control of your car. but the main thing is drive drive drive and def keep your cooling/reliability mods at the top of the list. if you still have issues learning on the fd, go buy a 500$ s13 and play with that for a few months, it will help you get the basics down and show you how to point the car, some throttle control and how to act instead of react.
10k spring rates seem a bit high but once you get used to it you should be fine.
04-28-09, 02:32 PM
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Sammamish Washington
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
funny you say that. I am about to pickup a s13 for 500 in a few days 
should be nice to learn some car control and the esentials for drifting. And if it gets crashed **** it its a $500 240sx no big deal 
should be nice to learn some car control and the esentials for drifting. And if it gets crashed **** it its a $500 240sx no big deal
04-28-09, 02:46 PM
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Sammamish Washington
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
also one more thing. my clutch is just starting to be on its way out. what should i get. im looking for something cheap and good for drifting. I'm looking around on ebay right now
04-29-09, 05:20 PM
#15
word. Anything to make it easier.
Might think about changing to a turbo with better response too.
I overlooked the fact you dont like how your turbo spools. Check the single turbo forums. I'm not too familiar with the rew but from what i hear, you'd like a gt35r. Look into it.
Might think about changing to a turbo with better response too.
I overlooked the fact you dont like how your turbo spools. Check the single turbo forums. I'm not too familiar with the rew but from what i hear, you'd like a gt35r. Look into it.
04-29-09, 11:36 PM
#16
Dunno if fd chassis is all that different from fc but when i removed my sway bars.....wow. Made ALOT of difference in handling. All the snap my car had is now gone. It's not sloppy by any means. Just butter smooth for drifting and just driving in general. If you have good coilovers, you dont need the sway bars anyway for roll control.
04-30-09, 05:32 AM
#17
steering angle - S14>S13>FC>FD
FD's are way worse than FC's. the FD's ebrake works good in the 2 that i got to session. but it's way awkward being as far away as it is in comparison to an FC, same with the RX8, it's awkward..
best advice i can give you:
Get your cooling system up to date, and in good order, unless you can afford a rebuild if you overheat your car, because you can't monitor gauges while trying to control the car. the less on your mind while sliding, will give you more of your mind, to focus on your mistakes, and inputs, and how to figure out what the car is doing via those said inputs.. that's why people learn so much more on track, than on the street. not worrying about cops is nice. i learned on the streets, so i can't say anything, but DEFINTELY make it to atleast one event. the progression from one event compared to a weekends worth of street drifting is night and day.
once your car is in check, and running good:
ONLY THEN, i suggest you to go out and learn to slide your car stock.
learn stock, learn how the car reacts. i hate how everyone says all this stupid **** like you need angle kits, and hydro ebrakes. ****'s dumb to say that, it's gangster for someone who's put in the time to benefit by it, but for a beginner, just go slide the **** out of your car, you'll progress in no time, then you can upgrade your suspension/power/etc, and actually BENEFIT, AND REALIZE WTF your car is doing, and how it's helping.
SO MANY DUDES IN FULLY BUILT *** CARS TALK THE TALK, but can't drive for ****.
/thread.
FD's are way worse than FC's. the FD's ebrake works good in the 2 that i got to session. but it's way awkward being as far away as it is in comparison to an FC, same with the RX8, it's awkward..
best advice i can give you:
Get your cooling system up to date, and in good order, unless you can afford a rebuild if you overheat your car, because you can't monitor gauges while trying to control the car. the less on your mind while sliding, will give you more of your mind, to focus on your mistakes, and inputs, and how to figure out what the car is doing via those said inputs.. that's why people learn so much more on track, than on the street. not worrying about cops is nice. i learned on the streets, so i can't say anything, but DEFINTELY make it to atleast one event. the progression from one event compared to a weekends worth of street drifting is night and day.
once your car is in check, and running good:
ONLY THEN, i suggest you to go out and learn to slide your car stock.
learn stock, learn how the car reacts. i hate how everyone says all this stupid **** like you need angle kits, and hydro ebrakes. ****'s dumb to say that, it's gangster for someone who's put in the time to benefit by it, but for a beginner, just go slide the **** out of your car, you'll progress in no time, then you can upgrade your suspension/power/etc, and actually BENEFIT, AND REALIZE WTF your car is doing, and how it's helping.
SO MANY DUDES IN FULLY BUILT *** CARS TALK THE TALK, but can't drive for ****.
/thread.
04-30-09, 05:41 AM
#18
not saying an angle kit won't help. it will.
if you're street drifting, i say get it, ONLY because it's a band-aid to save your *** incase you're on your way to spinning. if you don't have it, you'll either get good quick, or kill the **** out of your car from spinning, and hitting something.
if you're street drifting, i say get it, ONLY because it's a band-aid to save your *** incase you're on your way to spinning. if you don't have it, you'll either get good quick, or kill the **** out of your car from spinning, and hitting something.
05-01-09, 03:56 AM
#20
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Sammamish Washington
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
do they make a steering knuckle mod for the fd that you can buy. i want more angle but at the same time if there isn't a kit i don't trust myself to do it on my own...
05-06-09, 04:57 PM
#23
Failcopter..it's here..
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: near phoenix....kinda...
Posts: 721
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
i agree with the Diff.. . im currently workin on driftin my FD. i still have the torsen and it will be swapped for a 2way soon enough. after u do that then id worry about other mods "more angle" and stuff like that. work on Diff/seat time/cooling
05-06-09, 09:51 PM
#25
As far as modded knuckles, there's two things you can do:
1. Email parts shop max (powered by max/gt factory) that's based out of cali and see what they can do for you. I mean, they do sell diy kits but you have to grind them to fit an fc knuckle. I dunno if they have fd knuckles available to know if it's feasable to use their diy kits with them so you'll have to ask. At the most, they'll charge you about $450 to do it but it's worth it b/c you'll have a shitload of angle WITH bumpsteer correction built in so you can use stock tie rods and tie rod ends if you so choose to.
2. cut your stock knucks shorter and have them re-welded. Test with 5 lb sledge to see if they're safe and bolt em in...... The new greddy drift fd has some really trick custom knuckles but i'm willing to bet they are out of a "reasonable" price range for most considering the alternatives.
Dont think about it too much. You're just moving the tie rod pivot point closer to the center of the hub...... As long as both sides are even and you're not changing ackerman angle drastically no worries.
Alot of people do this mod on alot of cars. Just not rx7s or 240s, but corollas, JZ chassis cars (chasers, supras, altezza's, aristo, cefiero, etc), bimmers..........
There is another method that requires modding the rack itself such as having a machine shop cut an extra tooth or so but i'm sure that's further than you're willing to go over the first two mods i listed.
Just hit up parts shop max. See what they can do for you.
1. Email parts shop max (powered by max/gt factory) that's based out of cali and see what they can do for you. I mean, they do sell diy kits but you have to grind them to fit an fc knuckle. I dunno if they have fd knuckles available to know if it's feasable to use their diy kits with them so you'll have to ask. At the most, they'll charge you about $450 to do it but it's worth it b/c you'll have a shitload of angle WITH bumpsteer correction built in so you can use stock tie rods and tie rod ends if you so choose to.
2. cut your stock knucks shorter and have them re-welded. Test with 5 lb sledge to see if they're safe and bolt em in...... The new greddy drift fd has some really trick custom knuckles but i'm willing to bet they are out of a "reasonable" price range for most considering the alternatives.
Dont think about it too much. You're just moving the tie rod pivot point closer to the center of the hub...... As long as both sides are even and you're not changing ackerman angle drastically no worries.
Alot of people do this mod on alot of cars. Just not rx7s or 240s, but corollas, JZ chassis cars (chasers, supras, altezza's, aristo, cefiero, etc), bimmers..........
There is another method that requires modding the rack itself such as having a machine shop cut an extra tooth or so but i'm sure that's further than you're willing to go over the first two mods i listed.
Just hit up parts shop max. See what they can do for you.