drifting reliability!
02-19-10, 11:21 PM
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drifting reliability!
hey guys I just recently switched to rotary and im super curious as to the drift reliability of the 13b engine. i plan on daily drive/drift my fc and I jus wanted to know how often im i going to have rebuild my engine and when rebuilding, do you have to replace EVERY seal during rebuild? Im just trying to get a ball park estimate of how stressful(if any) its gonna be to drift this engine or to simply go another route.
02-20-10, 01:18 AM
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while I have just started drifting and daily mine as well and from all I have read here on the forum, it will be fairly often compared to a piston motor that drifts. rotory engines need rebuilds every 150k-200k miles (in general, could get more daily driven) BUT that is properly maintained and only regular use, maybe light track time. drifting is hell on any car so you are probably looking at rebuild (soft seals anyway if you don't actually break anything) every 100k miles at least I would say. thats a BIG if you don't damage your engine before then. but I have no personal experience with it yet and it depends on how many events and how hard you push. I base it on at least 5 or 6 hard events where you are driving at least 3-5 hours each. try not to bounce off the rev limiter a lot(if you have one), that will help a little I think. our cars don't like that.
actual drifters chime in, I am also curious to what real experience has seen.
actual drifters chime in, I am also curious to what real experience has seen.
02-20-10, 03:48 AM
#3
Well, i'll give my OPINION because i'm in the same boat as you. I've been doing ALOT of research due to deciding to keep my fc rotary for a long list of reasons (aka, fail excuses).
Lubrication and cooling are TOP CONCERNS with any car you're going to drift but it's especially important to address things early with your rotary. Overheat once and you could be stuck sourcing another motor or parts to rebuild yours.
I have heard the stock clutch fan, shroud and radiator is sufficient for low level street power (below 300hp). I have heard the stock oiling system is also fine. I like to overbuild so i've got a good bit in the works right now. I haven't installed much due to it being cold as hell outside but i'm gathering parts.
-instead of running 50/50 coolant and water mix run water with additives that inhibit rust and prevent freezing. Water freezes at 32 degrees so if you live in a climate that dips that low, take that into consideration when preparing your mix. Our engines aren't as durable as piston engines in the water jacket area. VERY thin area between the seal and water jacket and if it corrodes enough coolant can leak past the seal into the combustion area.
-A thick aluminum radiator will have a better cooling efficiency than stock. More surface area for air to pass over plus the fact aluminum sheds heat faster than steel makes the choice to upgrading to one of these pretty easy. Also you increase your overall coolant volume.
-Coolant air-separator tank. Air bubbles in coolant decrease cooling efficiency. $25-50 well spent.
-aftermarket electric fans. The fan clutch can and will wear out. When it does it's a good idea to make the switch to e fans. They come in all sorts of setups. Push, pull, reversable, straight blade, curved blade...... A shroud of sorts will help them work better.
-hood ventilation. Reverse vent hoods tend to cool better than "hood spacers" or a stock t2 hood if you're 2nd gen. Drawing hot air out of the engine bay keeps your oil cool, your coolant cooler and allows your exhaust manifold heat to stay in the exhaust manifold. It wont have time to soak into nearby components, like your intake.
-ducting. The stock undertray keeps airflow going through the rad and oil cooler instead of around it. It does it's job but if you want something better look into grabbing some sheet metal, brackets, self tapping screws, a rivet gun and some sort of sealant to make ducts for your oil cooler and rad. OOOOOOOR, you can keep your stock undertray and run an upper cooling pannel. Make your own or buy one. Remember, the more airflow to your coolers, the better.
-ALOT of guys who track their rx7s run DUAL oil coolers. Drifters often take turns at loads/rpms that a grip car would take but at LOWER speeds meaning less airflow to your coolers. Fans on the oil cooler(s) helps.
-forced induction. A good tune and well maintained components as well as any extra info you can get through buying some quality gauges will go a long way. Also look into meth/alk/water injection. It lowers intake temps, increases compression somewhat and allows you to make more power safely on pump gas.
-thermal pellet shimming. http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html
-headlamp cover vent/air filter box will give your engine fresh air from outside of the vehicle.
-oil pan baffle. Racing beat iirc makes these and they keep oil from sloshing away from the pickup tube during agressive driving. Not really a HUGE issue i've seen troubling rotary cars though. I dont plan on getting one any time soon but would like one eventually, just for added protection.
I mean, you dont have to do all of this stuff. It's a bit over the top for a nearly stock engine, n/a at that. I am doing it because i love my car a bit too much.
Outside of the engine bay i really dont know what to tell ya. Maybe a pinion snubber for the diff and getting rid of dtss before it pitches you off to a place you dont want to be?
Lubrication and cooling are TOP CONCERNS with any car you're going to drift but it's especially important to address things early with your rotary. Overheat once and you could be stuck sourcing another motor or parts to rebuild yours.
I have heard the stock clutch fan, shroud and radiator is sufficient for low level street power (below 300hp). I have heard the stock oiling system is also fine. I like to overbuild so i've got a good bit in the works right now. I haven't installed much due to it being cold as hell outside but i'm gathering parts.
-instead of running 50/50 coolant and water mix run water with additives that inhibit rust and prevent freezing. Water freezes at 32 degrees so if you live in a climate that dips that low, take that into consideration when preparing your mix. Our engines aren't as durable as piston engines in the water jacket area. VERY thin area between the seal and water jacket and if it corrodes enough coolant can leak past the seal into the combustion area.
-A thick aluminum radiator will have a better cooling efficiency than stock. More surface area for air to pass over plus the fact aluminum sheds heat faster than steel makes the choice to upgrading to one of these pretty easy. Also you increase your overall coolant volume.
-Coolant air-separator tank. Air bubbles in coolant decrease cooling efficiency. $25-50 well spent.
-aftermarket electric fans. The fan clutch can and will wear out. When it does it's a good idea to make the switch to e fans. They come in all sorts of setups. Push, pull, reversable, straight blade, curved blade...... A shroud of sorts will help them work better.
-hood ventilation. Reverse vent hoods tend to cool better than "hood spacers" or a stock t2 hood if you're 2nd gen. Drawing hot air out of the engine bay keeps your oil cool, your coolant cooler and allows your exhaust manifold heat to stay in the exhaust manifold. It wont have time to soak into nearby components, like your intake.
-ducting. The stock undertray keeps airflow going through the rad and oil cooler instead of around it. It does it's job but if you want something better look into grabbing some sheet metal, brackets, self tapping screws, a rivet gun and some sort of sealant to make ducts for your oil cooler and rad. OOOOOOOR, you can keep your stock undertray and run an upper cooling pannel. Make your own or buy one. Remember, the more airflow to your coolers, the better.
-ALOT of guys who track their rx7s run DUAL oil coolers. Drifters often take turns at loads/rpms that a grip car would take but at LOWER speeds meaning less airflow to your coolers. Fans on the oil cooler(s) helps.
-forced induction. A good tune and well maintained components as well as any extra info you can get through buying some quality gauges will go a long way. Also look into meth/alk/water injection. It lowers intake temps, increases compression somewhat and allows you to make more power safely on pump gas.
-thermal pellet shimming. http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html
-headlamp cover vent/air filter box will give your engine fresh air from outside of the vehicle.
-oil pan baffle. Racing beat iirc makes these and they keep oil from sloshing away from the pickup tube during agressive driving. Not really a HUGE issue i've seen troubling rotary cars though. I dont plan on getting one any time soon but would like one eventually, just for added protection.
I mean, you dont have to do all of this stuff. It's a bit over the top for a nearly stock engine, n/a at that. I am doing it because i love my car a bit too much.
Outside of the engine bay i really dont know what to tell ya. Maybe a pinion snubber for the diff and getting rid of dtss before it pitches you off to a place you dont want to be?
02-20-10, 09:04 AM
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There's two things that will keep your rotary(just like every other motor) reliable.
First, and most importantly, being EDUCATED. Learn about the possible weaknesses with the rotary motor, and cooling system.
Second, MONEY. Spend your money wisely, by improving the system, before power adders, and you will be rewarded with RELIABILITY.
There are a lot of threads on this forum on this... do some research, and if you have more specific questions, that aren't covered in other threads, post them up.
Reliablility will depend on you.
First, and most importantly, being EDUCATED. Learn about the possible weaknesses with the rotary motor, and cooling system.
Second, MONEY. Spend your money wisely, by improving the system, before power adders, and you will be rewarded with RELIABILITY.
There are a lot of threads on this forum on this... do some research, and if you have more specific questions, that aren't covered in other threads, post them up.
Reliablility will depend on you.
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