l3eltinck

iTrader: (2)

Since it's getting close to purchase time I thought I'd get my list critiqued by those with direct experience...

DTSS elim bushings $40
Energy Suspension Front End Control Arm Bushing Set $58.20/set
MMR rear camber links $125/pair
MMR rear LCA Spherical bushings $160/pair
Superangle inner tie rods (eyecandy --from rx7club) $100/pair
Mazdatrix angle kit: tie rod ends/bump steer adjst. $190/pair
MMR diff mount $50
MMR subframe mount $55
MMR subframe spacer $50
Pinion snubber $10

Current total:
$838.20 + shipping ~$900

Already own:
Stance GR+ Pro coilovers (Rishie) 8k/6k

let me know what's missing..
Thanks,
-Pete

courtesy of:
http://mmr-direct.com/catalog1/RX7FC/index.htm
http://nipponpower.com/product.phtml?p=321&mmk=562
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=994
http://www.autornd.com

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

Looks good.

Eye candy tie rods....well, those give you the max amount of angle POSSIBLE (PERIOD) you can get from the rack. I was VERY impressed by them and swear they were worth the $100. If i can't drift worth a ****, atleast my parking skills will be greatly increased.

I hear alot of people running both the individual camber links with the single camber arm LOVE it. Soo much adjustment.

l3eltinck

iTrader: (2)

Does that mean getting the mazdatrix angle kit would be pointless? -just get some bumpsteer adjst. and tie rod ends+ the tie rods...

I feel like I've seen more than one person running tie rods+angle kits then after a while they keep both of those and mod the knuckles...

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

you dont need half that ****.

well atleast till you know what youre doing

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

He doesn't NEED it but it's his money, you know? I love helping people spend money!

To the op, no, you dont need the tie rod spacers if you run secret element tie rods.

However, if you have enough thread adjustment to zero toe, you can run both the spacers and the tie rods. The benefit is more toe ajustment. I think the mazdatrix tie rod ends offer more adjustment compared to my megan kit but i actually NEED to put spacers (washers in my case) on my rack.

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Go with MMR front bushings and AWR adj lateral links to fix the toe problems in the rear after lowering. Oh and a set of my modded spindles of course.

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=88

l3eltinck

iTrader: (2)

I'd rather do all the research first, buy once then put it all in once rather than all the extra down time for doing each upgrade separately... right? which is why I wanted the list critiqued before I went ahead and purchased though, so keep it coming.

The only reason I chose the softer front LCA bushings is because of the terrible roads in Michigan.. but I'd like more input on the Derlin bushings.. as long as they won't break prematurely or cause damage to other parts, I'll definitely consider them. I've been looking at the AWR toe link kit as well..care to explain why this is necessary? or is it more of a convenience type upgrade?


I appreciate the responses,
Pete

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

I'd go ahead and run some cushion if it's a daily. you know? Solid delrin subframe bushings are probably going to give you a rougher ride but nowhere near as bad as aluminum bushings. You can probably find softer springs for your coils if you wanted a more tollerable ride.

Our roads aren't that great either. I'm filling my diff mounts with window weld, running a truck bump stop over the diff with a custom solid front mount (all steel, reinforced mounting point the subframe as well), upgrade to poly front bushings and run spherical trailing arm bushings with adjustable toe rods and individual camber adjusters and i'm calling my suspension done. I've already got coils, dtss, angle kit, single camber arm, and camber plates. Window weld is pretty stiff stuff fyi but still has some give to it. Great for doing motor mounts in other cars like hondas!

BTW, TII rotor's knuckles are the ****. Why? B/C if you find yourself having problems with the new tie rod end mount you can put it back in the stock location until you get better or whatever. JTP knuckles are what they are. The choice is up to you though. They aren't a bad investment. I mean, if you want modded knuckles, get em. You wont need rack spacers at all, just tie rods and hemi/anti bump steer ends.


All this talk is giving me so much anxiety b/c my car is ready to wake up....ALMOST. I've been dreaming steady about it for 2 weeks now. I've already found some practice spots on google maps with directions wrote down in my notebook.


FYI, some of those bushings are MADE to take shock from the drivetrain. If EVERYTHING is not built to accomidate you're going to break stuff so ofcourse do it right.

Just wait for hypertek to respond. He found a great link somewhere. I'm too lazy to look for it at the moment. I dont remember where i posted the topic anyway.....

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

stop bitching about the solid bushings.

we run around with stiff suspension, no A/C, roll cages and door bars, ridiculously loud exhaust, no ground clearance, and bucket seats and your whining about ruining your ride comfort? you guys are ridiculous. We swapped to aluminum bushings on my buddies 14 this saturday. I didnt even notice a difference in ride quality. just do it

l3eltinck

iTrader: (2)

Had nothing to do with ride comfort.. I already said what I was thinking of.
8k/6k spring rates = stiff ride regardless.

How about some actual help instead of just telling me not to do half of the ****? I made this thread for people like you to help me setup the car based on your expertise.

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

ballliinnnnnnnn!!!

well hes right you know, once you have all those modds, you wont have to worry about it later. If he has money to do it why not.. for me Im always poor, and budgeting and just replacing w/e breaks when it breaks. lol

but yeah , theres no ride comfort in a fc drift car.. fucken my first week driving my fc again after the rebuild, my lower back started hurting, then after 5,000miles of daily driving to school and w/es I got used to it. Drove it 140 miles just for a drift event and back with onewheel drive, and drift once a week at local drift track week after weeks.. all this and dailying at the same time. **** up that aero!! my lower frame rails are beaten to death and shiny from all the hardcore scrapeage lol. even my tranny mount scraped in Riverside one time lol. but yeah, the only comfort thing I wish my car would have expecially in summer is a/c.. if i had a/c....fuckkk it would be 10x better

l3eltinck

iTrader: (2)

How do the MMR products compare to the AWR equivalents?

-rear camber links, and spherical bearings etc..

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

I've heard MMR is a better bang for the buck but I have no real experience with it yet.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

Im pretty sure you wont need the spacers if you go with the mounts, since the spacers i presume typically compliment the stock bushings by stiffening em up. Not needed if you get the solids.

Nice tho I want those spacers. I have their DTSS eliminators. Geez i wish i would ahve seen this link earlier i would have placed a order on their camber links instead i bought some other crap.

this link right? http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index....2422#msg132422

sick setup.

l3eltinck

iTrader: (2)

AWR Rear Toe-Link Kit $265

Current : $1085
http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=88

Hm. . .

MMR total: $510

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

There you go.

Hypertek: Yeah. That's the link. Good stuff.

Next time i swap diffs, i'm seam welding my subframe and trailing arms. Seems like a worthy mod and it's free. All you need to do that is time (roughly 2 hours max) and a welder.

sunburn

I'm basically doing the same thing... except I'm going MMR on a few things and AWR on the rear toe links.

Installed the MMR diff bushings when I did my diff.





I have a spare rear sub that is getting blasted, seam welded and a poly coating then the goodies.



I have Scott's knuckles... good ****.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Anyone have expirience with the SuperNow parts? I know guys run the AWR and MMR adjusters... I was looking at the Camber Control Sub Link.

l3eltinck

iTrader: (2)

what supernow parts are you talking about..the tie rods/ends/angle kits?

l3eltinck

iTrader: (2)

MMR Delrin/UHMW front control arm bushing set
MMR rear camber links /pair
MMR rear LCA Spherical bushings /pair

off the list.. should be enough to at least play in the rain some..

edit: -- FREE domestic shipping --

sunburn

nice! you should feel a huge difference with the spherical LCA bushings/bearings

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

The Sublink camber adjuster.

RE TurboII

iTrader: (2)

I <3 Supernow

and pretty much with your list of parts your going to be well set with suspension. good luck with it

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

What parts of theirs do you run?

RE TurboII

iTrader: (2)

Tie Rod end/ Angle Kit
Subframe Mounts
Single Camber Adjuster
Independent Camber adjuster
Lateral Links