Na, mostly ricers.

 

you are so new and naive.

 

There is video evidence to the contrary, which is also why we can't drift at PMI any more.

 

ive seen `em flip at low speed when going sideways out in the sand trap... It wont kill you though :P

 

The faster you go the harder you crash.

 

so gayy todayy.. drove to like 7 alignment shops and none of them want to give my car a alignment. Finally decided to find some mom and pop shops, and one of them took my car in.. My rear camber is off. driver side has way less camber than the passenger side. The front had bit too much toe out, and camber was off, rear toe was off too.. so now the car drives 10xbetter. I just need to get camber links for the rear. But I remeber Mike Essa telling me that on fcs you cant adjust camber individually, its adjusts both sides at the same time.. so how in the world am I ever going to fix the rear camber?

anyways I cant wait to try out the car tmrw at adams with the new cage and alignment done..

 

in terms of camber there is 2 routes,

you can get single link that adjusts overall rear camber but its not exact, or you can get 2 guys that replace a link on the A arm allowing you to adjust camber for each wheel.

On my old car, i just cut and welded the links, wound up with about -.5 camber slammed.

 

perfect explanation, thanks now I understand. I probably bent one of my camber links dirt dropping or somethin.. Il just upgrade it to adjustable camber links.. cuz for awhile I thought you could only adjust camber both at one time only..

 

well I found this http://cgi.ebay.com/MAZDA-RX7-FC3S-R...3286.m20.l1116

see this one link adjusts camber both sides at a time. the problem is one side has sick camber and the other is normal. I never crashed, just dirt dropped or flew into dirt several times at balcony and riverside. lol

but yeah I guess something is bent. When I removed and replaced my diff last week, I couldnt really notice anything obviously bent.. can someone point out what part I might need? which part is the lateral links slideallaince?

 

is this the part that might be bent?? should I get at this? does this adjust camber>? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TCS-R...Q5fAccessories

sorry guys im anoob, I never really focused on all this stuff before until my alignment got messed up.

 

The lateral links are the long rods running horizontally across the rear end, the single camber adjuster is the silver peice at the end of the arm (one on both sides) and the other long rod running vertically is the dual camber adjuster that adjusts both sides.

Lateral links adjust Toe

 

where can I get the single camber adjuster? or who makes em? I ordered the lateral links.. hopefully thats it... but yeah I want to be able to tweak the settings.. I need that good contact patch again..

 

hm damn I thought those were trailing links.. o wellI can seell onee I found acool thread with alot of info.. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...amber+adjuster

mazdatrix makes the individual camber adjusters, they are hella pricey tho... damn..
Im going to have to save up for those. Il need both the single link dual camber adjuster and the L&R individual camber adjusters to prevent the binding they are talking about..

damn why are fcs so weird.. 240s are much more simpler..

 

you need a performance alignment ... it would have been easy to just go to a performance shop to get it,
they wouldn't have turned you away! I need an alignment so bad - first thing i'm doing when I get back
next month. I'll probably come drive at adams.

 

FCs aren't weird, you just need to stop asking dumb people for info. It is pretty common to have uneven camber in the rear after you lower the car.

Get the MMR adjusters. $125 for both camber links - part #FC3SSL2001. It is the top item in the FC catalog. The single subframe adjuster rod will not fix your problem. It you have delrin or poly rear arm bushings the individual adjusters will not work.

http://mmr-direct.com/

 

Battleversion sells rear camber links too. Alex's stuff is by far some of the highest quality parts for any car.

http://www.battleversion.com/

 

Edit: I think the Battleversion piece is the single rear bar. AWR makes some separate adjusters

http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=80

 

thx for the links guys. Its definitely cheaper than mazdatrix.

slidealliance- Iono man, it used to be pretty even, after 6 drift events in a row it took its toll on the suspension. Even my diff mount just went out today under normal driving, I need to change that **** in a few hours before adams track..welded is harsh on the diff mount.. Il definitely hit up those individual camber links.

thx guys ty ty saved me so much $$ wow MMR really has alot of suspension goodies for good prices. I might have to also get the diff mounts from them.

 

its just weird how lowering the car makes the rear camber off left and right. so strange.

 

Thats quality ^

got more pics? pm me;

 

It could be many things, rear subframe bushings, torque on rear subframe nuts, rear arm bushing, wheel bearings, bushings in the hub... etc.

The geometry has a camber curve. It could only be off 1 or 2 tenths of a degree at stock height, and got worse as you lowered the car.

 

^ this. he may be a pretentious ******* but what he's saying is true. everything is exaggerated by 100 when you slam a car. FC rear
suspension is sensitive but not too hard to dial in and set-and-forget.

don't forget toe; on FC's this makes a big change especially in drifting...
I had like 1.2 deg of toe in when I first dumped my car. most guys run
toe at 0 in the rear.

moar

 

okay Iguess i cant go to the track tnite. As I was driving normal today coming home from school, my diff started bangin the chassis when shifting gears. I went under my car today and checked to find out that the rear subframe diff mount plate completely snapped off from the subframe with the diff . So yeah, now I need another rear subframe wtf.. is my car making that much power to grenade a stub shaft, now a subframe diff mount? so crazy.. I guess running awelded ,dailying it and drifting at events takes a big toll. I stuffed some abs rubber plastic in between the front diff and the chassis for now so I can at least drive it to get where i need.. just need to shift smooth, but no skid racer action tnite ;( damn its either I swap the rear subframe myself or pay a shop... thinkin...

 

yes I see that now.. so something is off... could be anything.... might as well inspect everything since I need to pull my rear end... stupid subframe diff mount is a goner..damn ebay stage 3 clutch.

 

does PSM make the diff mount thing?

I have the uras ones right now, but that thing is cooler looking