Buckey's Pro-Am Build: '87 Mazda RX7 TurboII
i need another spacer to see how far my spindles go, but i just came across those pics of USDRIFTR's car on JTPs blog, and i think those are still the same if not more. wheel width would effect the perception of actual angle, but our tie rods are similar in angle into the LCA
I noticed from your pic that you were using Federals. I just ordered my first set I've never used them before (the price and treadwear rating made me do it) How do you like them?
you'll like them. i only had 215's so im sure that was part of the reason.
Yeah I'm only rockin 215s in front too. I'm used to using Nexen N3000 so these will probably have 10X the grip in front.
so i've been taking some time off my car to get money to build it. painted some wheels for my friend real quick, and re-polished the lips since they were in a fire, and had some pretty crazy pitting going on.. finished one so far. my camera sucks, but you get the idea.
base coat was flat silver, and top coat was candy green. for the record spraying candy sucks... was my first time, and i already know i'm going to have to redo a wheel or 2 before i give them back... so hard to color match in all the grooves even when i hit them first...




then here's what they look like in person (may be blurry)





base coat was flat silver, and top coat was candy green. for the record spraying candy sucks... was my first time, and i already know i'm going to have to redo a wheel or 2 before i give them back... so hard to color match in all the grooves even when i hit them first...




then here's what they look like in person (may be blurry)





i don't even have tire support, so this season is going to be tough... either way i'll be at every stop i can get to.
i really picked the worst time to tear my car apart, and upgrade the turbo setup though that's for sure...
as for the balljoint issue: should i lengthen it, and make spacers to drop it lower from the control arm mount to help with the tierod angle issues? obviously that will raise the front slightly, but the camber plates i got should fix that as the factory upper mount is 3" thick where the camber plates are about 1" at best.
Here's mine on my 'easy' car.

We did my friend's FC knuckles at the same time but I didn't get any pics. Just lowered the pickup the width of the arm, so 14-15mm. Just sent him a text. He doesn't have pics of his either.
Honestly, I didn't notice bumpsteer before this stuff, but the angle and quicker steering were more important to me.
truthfully i didnt think about mentioning it when it was apart. he didnt see my car either time the knuckles were made. i did think of having him drop them, but the thought of pulling everything apart again kills me. i am probably just going to space my rack higher because i can do that without having to spend $$$. i dont trust myself welding spindles yet...
i've seen too many cars die from shitty welds..
that is a rad idea. same as Haraguchi's 326 power ones. i like the way my satoru copied ones felt even with the tie rod angle extreme and no PS.
i've seen too many cars die from shitty welds..
that is a rad idea. same as Haraguchi's 326 power ones. i like the way my satoru copied ones felt even with the tie rod angle extreme and no PS.
I think a company would give you a sponsorship. at least they would give you "Pro Pricing" Which is basically an employee discount. You've gone to enough events and stood on enough pro am podium that a company would give you something. Try to assemble a proposal with events you plan on attending, the amount of spectators at said event, and the kind of exposure you can give their brand. Also include pics and video of the car (when it's looking it's best) and a parts list. Someone will bite. I've heard Nexen, Nitto, and Hankook are the most receptive to giving out tire discounts.
thanks for the info! i need to get on it, just scared i'd mess it up. i was trying to hire a marketing company to help with stuff like that for the mean time so i can go back to school and learn everything for myself, but they WANT SCRIPSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSsssss haha
i would pay someone with experience in doing this to make me a proposal.
anything would help honestly... discounts on tires, discounts on gas to travel... etc.. i've got the drive to go anywhere at anytime, and throw down, just the money aspect is killer... same for everyone else..
i would pay someone with experience in doing this to make me a proposal.
anything would help honestly... discounts on tires, discounts on gas to travel... etc.. i've got the drive to go anywhere at anytime, and throw down, just the money aspect is killer... same for everyone else..
I dropped off my damaged parts to Tony at AWR and he has to make more of these LCA heim'd pieces for me. I'm waiting on price for them, but it is cheaper to machine more than one set of them. Are you, or anyone else interested in a set?

The center pin is machined and the rest is heims and misalignment spacers. The main body has a special angle to allow for lowered ride height as well. Real strong and legit.
Let me know if you want more info. I told Tony about you in Vegas doing the same as me, competition wise.

The center pin is machined and the rest is heims and misalignment spacers. The main body has a special angle to allow for lowered ride height as well. Real strong and legit.
Let me know if you want more info. I told Tony about you in Vegas doing the same as me, competition wise.
Ben i do need some help picking the exact turbo setup for my car still as i have pretty common luck with me picking the wrong stuff each and everytime.
would you be able to give any advice on a good setup? i'm pretty into the 35r. the powerband/power output of it is right in my ideal window. the only thing im lost on are the different A/R's, and the other misc technical variables of the 35r series...
i want between 380whp-450whp without really pushing the turbo/boost on max.
i scored a 60-1 to run in the mean time with this manifold above until i get everything finalized on the turbo setup. still need to get an ECU, and injectors. a fuel pump, and remake my Radiator/waterneck outlets into -AN's.
trying to make everything as universal/quick to remove as possible even though it's going to be $300 to run the hoses in -AN...
would you be able to give any advice on a good setup? i'm pretty into the 35r. the powerband/power output of it is right in my ideal window. the only thing im lost on are the different A/R's, and the other misc technical variables of the 35r series...
i want between 380whp-450whp without really pushing the turbo/boost on max.
i scored a 60-1 to run in the mean time with this manifold above until i get everything finalized on the turbo setup. still need to get an ECU, and injectors. a fuel pump, and remake my Radiator/waterneck outlets into -AN's.
trying to make everything as universal/quick to remove as possible even though it's going to be $300 to run the hoses in -AN...
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Jan 31, 2011 at 02:52 PM.
I dropped off my damaged parts to Tony at AWR and he has to make more of these LCA heim'd pieces for me. I'm waiting on price for them, but it is cheaper to machine more than one set of them. Are you, or anyone else interested in a set?

The center pin is machined and the rest is heims and misalignment spacers. The main body has a special angle to allow for lowered ride height as well. Real strong and legit.
Let me know if you want more info. I told Tony about you in Vegas doing the same as me, competition wise.

The center pin is machined and the rest is heims and misalignment spacers. The main body has a special angle to allow for lowered ride height as well. Real strong and legit.
Let me know if you want more info. I told Tony about you in Vegas doing the same as me, competition wise.
although i do need them, and i understand about the multiple sets price reduction so ill try to see what i can do.
i'll message you, thanks man!
a GT3571R with T4 1.06A/R turbine housing will get you to about 450WHP at ~16PSI by 4200RPMs. it's ball bearing and they cost about $1050 new now. i prefer v-bands over the 4 bolt pattern on that turbo you have now for easy turbo swapping. 16psi is rather pushing it for pump gas though so i would advise an auxiliary water, methanol or water/methanol blend injection system if you plan on pushing it at the upper end. also v-mount since drifting doesn't net much airflow across the radiator, front mounts are old school.


I too hate the 4bolt flange. i'm borrowing it from my friend to get it running so i can save for the GT turbo/finish paying for the Fullrace twin scroll manifold. v-bands do look pretty easy to swap out fast so i will get those for downpipe/wastegates.
as for the water/meth i do plan on buying either the AEM, or Snow performance one.. i wish E85 weren't such a headache, and didnt kill me when driving, or i'd go that route instead of paying $6/gallon for VP pump 105octane. i need to look into getting a hookup on buying 55gal drums of vp c-16 or something.. i've heard it's significantly cheaper if you buy a drum.
i don't know where to get the methanol at locally or pricing on it even. i should've thought of alot of these things before selling all my parts because now i'm forced to not drive until the build is done, where as if i would've left it, i could've went and competed for an event on 250hp to get the points... :/ live and learn.
PS: thanks for the update man!
I've heard squirting RC car nitro fuel into your engine (as aux injection) is either a really good idea or a bad one. I am too lazy to look into it. Water works fine. So does wiper fluid.
I too hate the 4bolt flange. i'm borrowing it from my friend to get it running so i can save for the GT turbo/finish paying for the Fullrace twin scroll manifold. v-bands do look pretty easy to swap out fast so i will get those for downpipe/wastegates.
as for the water/meth i do plan on buying either the AEM, or Snow performance one.. i wish E85 weren't such a headache, and didnt kill me when driving, or i'd go that route instead of paying $6/gallon for VP pump 105octane. i need to look into getting a hookup on buying 55gal drums of vp c-16 or something.. i've heard it's significantly cheaper if you buy a drum.
i don't know where to get the methanol at locally or pricing on it even. i should've thought of alot of these things before selling all my parts because now i'm forced to not drive until the build is done, where as if i would've left it, i could've went and competed for an event on 250hp to get the points... :/ live and learn.
PS: thanks for the update man!
as for the water/meth i do plan on buying either the AEM, or Snow performance one.. i wish E85 weren't such a headache, and didnt kill me when driving, or i'd go that route instead of paying $6/gallon for VP pump 105octane. i need to look into getting a hookup on buying 55gal drums of vp c-16 or something.. i've heard it's significantly cheaper if you buy a drum.
i don't know where to get the methanol at locally or pricing on it even. i should've thought of alot of these things before selling all my parts because now i'm forced to not drive until the build is done, where as if i would've left it, i could've went and competed for an event on 250hp to get the points... :/ live and learn.
PS: thanks for the update man!
but for budget runs and street cars i usually stick to pump fuel since it is easy to find, cheapest and still usable with the propery precautions. i don't really have any experience with snow performance kits but i have installed AEM and devil's own progressive kits and both work reliably, as i'm sure the snow kits do too but they're a little pricier.
last i checked there is a methanol pump in the north area for biodiesel suppliers at:
5225 East El Campo Grande Avenue, Las Vegas, NV
current average pricing of methanol sits around $5/gal, with auxiliary injection it lasts a while compared to your gas tank. you may go through a gallon in an hour depending on the nozzle size. a gallon usually lasts me about 16 gallons of tank fuel in street driving with spirited runs here and there.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Jan 31, 2011 at 06:45 PM.












