yeah its a thought however this thing has GOT to be done april 3rd for a an event i am using at test and tune. and this build is sort of a learning curve build. I watch my guy and pickup how he does things. Next shell i run on my own and make it the exact way i want with no compromises

 

WOO! these threads get me pumped! great job fixing it up, looks amazing

 

good job on the build i like it...and its amazing having a supporting wife

 

Hey man, great build! Where in VA are you? I'm in Richmond. I getting into drifting with my FB. If you're around I'd like to meet up sometime!

 

always around with my Fresh Roots crew in richmond so can work out. I live in fishersville so less than 2 hours away west on 64

 

just sayin

 

sooooo i am running low on drive right now.I need to have this car running by april 3rd for an event at summit but its going to be close. I decided if i dont run this summit event there is no way i am going to hotlanta to run in pro-am without atleast a good shake down and seeing if i can safely tandem this car to be honest the motor i bought was a complete piece of crap. I will upload some pictures later to elaborate on this fact. The only thing i am actually using out of this motor is the center iron and even that has a small groove in it that i am not real excited to see, and the intake manifolds and such. But this is also prolly why it was 1500 bucks, just the damn PFC ecu sells for 1000 without a tune and sometimes more. So if you think about this its still a good deal but man its shitty.

anyways i have ported new upgraded irons and looks like i will need to retune because i changed the shape a good bit and the rotors going in are 9.7 CR instead of 9.4. anyways an update with pictures is on the way

 

and so heres alittle progress and some pictures. first of is the original rear iron that was purchased with this setup. It is rather blah for sure.



original housings which its hard to tell but there is some galling/waveyness to the outside of the housings. This is the better looking one for sure.



my report with housing


changed the ecu's home to some left over hvac studs after some modding on the factory bracket. retack welded the wire holders to up top to hold what left of the body harness.



now here i very obviously ported to far into the water jacket. However i have some handy stuff that is a port reshaping "epoxy" it handles 500 degrees and is retarded strong when it dries so gonna try it out and see how it holds up







http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e4...r/IMG_4427.jpg

ordered up a fd oil reg, racing jets for the eshaft, new pump chain, several seals that have gone missing in my garage. Hopefully if everything goes as planned i will be reassembling saturday and with any luck it will be in and running sunday. then retuning due to compression change and port reshaping. any feedback/tips is always awesome even if its "your a retard why did you do that"

 

Hmm... what is going to happen when the plate expands and contrasts from heat cycles at a different rate than your retardedly strong epoxy?

Do it right, get another plate. You are going to waste tons of money and time rebuilding again after overheating, water getting sucked in after shut down, forced past your oil seals on the next start, and ruining all your bearings (including turbo) from contaminated oil.

Or don't. Either will be entertaining.

 

Quoted for Truth

 

You should have extended the port over the waterjacket

 

yeah your telling me^ i did a better job on the second one for sure. hadn't thought much on the subject of expansion contraction of the melt and epoxy but we are going to find out how it works. Could work and could fail. It seems like a better idea than attempting to tig weld it shut and risk cracking it. try this first then tig weld or new iron. Either way it sucks

 

irons are cheap. get another one, do something you would be proud of.

also exhaust temps reach over 1200* i thought, thats quite a bit higher than 500* so i dont think it would hold up anyway.

 

No. It will fail. It will fail miserably. It is a terrible idea. The 500 degree max temp is the least of your worries. It won't even last long enough for the fuel to start eating away at it. One tiny little crack or hole from the plate not sealing up from the the heat cycles, and ~10 lbs of pressurized coolant is going to spew into your engine. Ever seen a pin hole coolant leak in a radiator hose spray out coolant? Imagine all that in your engine. Then when the epoxy breaks loose it is going to completely destroy your already janky looking housing.

Seriously, you screwed up. Get a new plate, don't be an idiot.

 

Hard truth bro ^^^

 

Or go LS1 rrrrrrrrriiiiiiiiiiiiggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhttttttttt ?

 

 

Hmmm, never said anything about that, but sure. Seems like a reasonable idea. A lot better than this guys epoxy idea.

<3 how people bring it up randomly. Little jelly?

 

seriously i am kicking myself for alot of reasons in general, i wish i have start up ls swapped to begin with. Kicking myself for over porting the iron, thinking about reusing the old style front iron without the reinforced dowel land area and just cleaning up the ports a bit. Just worried about the exact same problem as before with blowing a dowel land and trashing everything. Thoughts on this?

Anyways to the satement of exhaust at 1200degrees. Yes thats true but its #1 on the opposite side of the motor #2 thats exhaust gas temperature not what ANY of the metal will ever see. The irons should see much over 220 degrees max.

Again i am an idiot and not sure how i wanna go about this. Its really a lose lose situation for sure, chance my "janky fix" or chance another dowel land breaking on the front iron. either way i am fucked. I get hope from my Buddy who has been building engines from scratch for 40 years, saying that this stuff will last, but i get the "this ***** never gonna work" from everyone on here.

 

try it out. and see what it does.

there have been plenty of experts proven wrong on this site over the years. does anyone remember the great MMO debate a few years ago? or the rotary powered rock crawler that everyone said would be a miserable failure?

plenty of instances where the experts were forced to change their thoughts.

so go for it, i say.

 

I am not an expert. I just don't think epoxy in general belongs anywhere in a drifting rotary engine bay. After coming this far I would just bite the bullet and get another plate all fixed up and finish it. Drifting with a janky motor is still better than air drifting 1 ft. off your garage floor all season. Don't give up and miss another drift season, is it not worth it. Rock it, blow it up, and LS it over the winter. If it was easy everyone would be doing it. (Well a lot of people are going LS, but that's not what I meant.)

Good luck.

 

dont worry, i wasnt calling you an expert

 

I has a belly button though.

 

can i have the lint for my collection?

pm me for my address

 

In for the bitch thread containing something to the tune of rotaries being piles of ****, grumble grumble grumble, LS1 swap.