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any N/A rotary drifters?

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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 03:30 AM
  #26  
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From: Dirty Ohio
Btw my setup is F: 17x9.5 with 215/40 RE01 R: 205/40 or 215/40 whatever junk I can find. Currently some "Ling Long" directionals. Sad they holdup to the heat better than any goodyears. Iv had every set delaminate in minutes. Guess they can't handle 130hp of pure fury..... Just don't buy goodyears... Ever.
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 04:38 AM
  #27  
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From: Dirty Jerz
Yea Goodyears are a lil soft and just fade away kinda easily. Well I have crown vics on now with 205/45 up front with 205/50 in the rear. At 1st they were a lil hard to get loose but with some adjustments to the suspension it loosened up a bit
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 10:28 AM
  #28  
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From: Dirty Ohio
Cool beans. Nice setup. I was gonna pick up a set of Vic's as spares. One of the best looking OE wheels in my opinion. But I hate the way big front wheels with smaller spares while drifting looks. So nasty. So I couldn't do it lol.
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 03:18 PM
  #29  
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I took my 12a streetport out for a few skids. Ripped up some tires and blew some smoke. Seemed like enough power, just needed a locked diff, which is the plan at some point soon.
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 11:12 PM
  #30  
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From: Dirty Ohio
Welded....
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 07:36 AM
  #31  
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From: MN
Originally Posted by archaphil
take your wheel off, look at your stock knuckle, now, look at say "JTP's" knuckle. Tell me you cant see a visual difference?
sorry, only really had the car for like 2 weeks before the cold and snow came, so the car is parked in the corner of the garage and i haven't taken the wheels off yet to look at anything.
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 07:39 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Schmitty
Here's a picture of my knuckle being modded for more angle. See the additional pickup point added about an 1" behind the stock steering pickup point?



I had mine done in this manner so I could revert back to stock since I was being a sissy when I had these made up. Guys like JTP and Abercrombie cut the stock arm off, cut it shorter, and weld it back on closer to the spindle.
I kinda like how yours were done. I always like being able to go back to stock if needed, or if I ever end up selling the car
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 10:43 PM
  #33  
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What about pushings? I've heard good and bad things about poly bushings... Don't really want to go solid because I want to be able to drive to events without breaking my teeth, and don't want to replace with stock bushings which might rip apart. What materials for diff mounts and DTSS? PBM has solid everything but I feel like that wouldn't end well on a street car.
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 06:31 PM
  #34  
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From: long beach
i heard welding your diff is bad? how long does it last? and what happens when the weld brakes?
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 02:08 PM
  #35  
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I welded my t2 diff. pulled the clutches out and went to town. your welds wont break if you do it right. it will last forever.
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 02:21 PM
  #36  
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I drift my 90 NA on tein flex coilovers with stock rims and any junk tires i can get my hands on. I daily the car so the diff is open
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 02:48 PM
  #37  
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sound like the perfect car to have a welded diff.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 09:10 AM
  #38  
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im currently building a 1988 s4 NA for drifting.. got rough with it yesterday testing out a new clutch master cylinder.... for the most part its stock and it gets sideways pretty damn good.. waiting for a radiator and in the next month or so ordering the tien drift coilovers.

you guys who drift your NA's, post some pics or vids of your car in action.. inspire us please
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 04:10 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by blackedoutFC3S
What about pushings? I've heard good and bad things about poly bushings... Don't really want to go solid because I want to be able to drive to events without breaking my teeth, and don't want to replace with stock bushings which might rip apart. What materials for diff mounts and DTSS? PBM has solid everything but I feel like that wouldn't end well on a street car.
If you dont want solid, id recommend mazdaspeed motor, trans and diff mount. Oem Trailing arm bushings and poly or delrin in the flca. Its fine to use harder bushings up front as they only pivot on a single axis, up and down.

but for the rear arms they are meant to move around so either oem bushing or a spherical will be desired there.

Ive been running MS stuff till now and have no complaints. Im currently going over to all of PBM stuff atm since i wont be dailying my car any longer. But you cant go wrong with just new bushings in general.
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 08:27 PM
  #40  
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From: Dirty Ohio
Originally Posted by ibeljin
I drift my 90 NA on tein flex coilovers with stock rims and any junk tires i can get my hands on. I daily the car so the diff is open
You'll quickly outgrow that open diff. Weld the bitch and source a 4.3 final. You'll wonder why you've never done it before.
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 08:30 PM
  #41  
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From: Dirty Ohio
Originally Posted by sikkid-drift
i heard welding your diff is bad? how long does it last? and what happens when the weld brakes?
The funny part is most ppl who say welded is bad never owned one. Properly welded it'll last forever. Just make sure whoever is doing it can actually weld. A lot of ppl say they weld but only 25% actually know what the **** they are doing. Crack it open and weld a plate to the spider gears instead of just the gears themselves. A little extra insurance.
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 10:50 PM
  #42  
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From: OP, KS
Originally Posted by savanna.seven
If you dont want solid, id recommend mazdaspeed motor, trans and diff mount. Oem Trailing arm bushings and poly or delrin in the flca. Its fine to use harder bushings up front as they only pivot on a single axis, up and down.

but for the rear arms they are meant to move around so either oem bushing or a spherical will be desired there.

Ive been running MS stuff till now and have no complaints. Im currently going over to all of PBM stuff atm since i wont be dailying my car any longer. But you cant go wrong with just new bushings in general.
Ya I've been doing a lot of research and apparently delrin is almost as stiff as solid mounts so it looks like I'm going polyurethane. I can't find any bushings for the rear subframe or diff in poly though. Looks like MMR used to carry them but they're not around any more so I'm not sure where else to look.
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 08:00 AM
  #43  
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From: Dirty Jerz
Mazdatrix^^
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 08:53 AM
  #44  
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From: OP, KS
They've got Mazda comp bushings for the diff which I think would be comparable but only OEM bushings for the subframe. I've only been able to find delrin bushings for the rear subframe, I'll just keep researching and see what I can come up with.
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 11:03 AM
  #45  
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Do you absolutely need poly bushings for the subframe?
what are are you trying to achieve exactly? just replace bushings in general?

I would say your worrying about it for nothing. either go solid or oem. I know you dont want to bust your teeth driving around but if your building a car for drifting its kinda of a trade off. You know, "you have three choices, pick two". If you use solid subframe mounts it wont be that bad. I mean most of the noise your going to get with solid mounts is from the diff.

But if your going to use rubber mounts/mazdaspeed on the diff it will isolate a large majority of the noise before it transfers to the subframe and chassis.

just my 0.02
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 01:22 PM
  #46  
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From: OP, KS
Right I completely understand. I was more looking for them because I figured all the bushings should be the same make so they will move together (maybe it made more sense in my head), but if it doesn't matter then that just makes things easier. Thanks for the input!
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