I just wanted to know if anybody out there drifts a N/A rotary car? I want to try getting into drifting next year, but don't want to spend a lot of money on engine mods right away.

My car(1991 vert) is currently stock except for 2 small rice cans and front strut bar, but is in need of a clutch, so any suggestions on a decent clutch and any other first few mods to get drifting would be great!!

 

Weld the diff, lower it, and a 6 puck unsprung clutch. Or 4

 

I "drift" with my n/a vert.....in first gear ...if it's damp...

 

Suspension goes a long way… dtss eliminators, going lower, and keep the car well balanced front and back.I would go sprung 6 puck. Also tires… stick with the stock bbs 15 inch and 195s. Don't go crazy taking out carpeting and sound deadening, you'll hate yourself. Weld or s4 clutch diff is a must

 

Like everyone says. Suspension, welded/LSD, bucket seat, and a clutch would be nice. You'll be kicking that ****** like no other, especially in a vert.

 

Thanks for the help and input guys!

 

Why 6 puck clutch if I may ask?

I am also na with some mods, stage 1 clutch, rb lightweight flywheel, rb headers, presiliencer, trust cat back, Atkins 6 port sleeves,ccorksport intake, coilovers, rear strut bar, poly bushings up front, stock port, and using Rx8 leading spark plugs. I have the dtts eliminators that need to be installed soon.

But would getting the clutch help on torque and maybe last longer??

 

^you will roast that stage1 clutch in no time!. A 6puck sprung hub should be prefect for both of you guys.

 

What everyone said but I would get modded knuckles if ur budget permits. Also make sure u run lots if tire pressure so u can spin those tires and keep them spinning.

 

4 or 6 puck should work with my 13lb steel flywheel?

 

Anyone will do fine but I only use 6pucks on my cars!...

 

I used to drift my rx8.. does that count? lol you will be fine, as stated, diff, coils, clutch, then just add weight transfers.

ps: I would HIGHLY suggest an exedy stage 2 3 puck clutch. I ******* love mine and ive beaten the absolute **** out of it and it still feels like new.

 

Whats your guys opinion on drilled/slotted brake rotors on a na? I have drilled/slotted rotors all around with hawk pads. Drilled/slotted rotors ok for drifting? Or a big waste of brake pads?

 

You'll find that there's really no benefit to drilled/slotted rotors on our n/a drift cars, same with the brake pads unless you like cleaning brake dust every week.

 

You can use the stock clutch even, but welded diff or lsd for sure and suspension is a big help.

 

nah

 

you know, i keep seeing people talk about these modded knuckles, but cant find anything about how they are modded/different from originals.

 

take your wheel off, look at your stock knuckle, now, look at say "JTP's" knuckle. Tell me you cant see a visual difference?

 

Here's a picture of my knuckle being modded for more angle. See the additional pickup point added about an 1" behind the stock steering pickup point?



I had mine done in this manner so I could revert back to stock since I was being a sissy when I had these made up. Guys like JTP and Abercrombie cut the stock arm off, cut it shorter, and weld it back on closer to the spindle.


*note that in the top portion of the above photo the knuckle on the left is an OEM RX7 knuckle that was perviously modified by PBM by welding a lower mount below the original steering arm that moves the pickup point and compensates for bump steer at the same time. The knuckle on the right is how Abercrombie modifies the steering arm (note how much shorter it is in comparison to the left side). I don't know what's going on with those green things though (it's not rx7 stuff).

PBM now takes it a step further and creates a drop spindle while shortening the steering arm and adding a bump-stop for use with their new lower control arms.

 

******* useless n/a^^^^^ put your money towards coils (stance or pbm), weld the diff, bonus points if you get a 4.3 final drive. Sweet wheels. 17s are fine. Just use skinny *** tires. 60psi... Bucket seat, wheel, straight pipe and the aero of your choice.....

 

^^^ x1000

 

I'm not expert as my car sits broken more often than not (damn bad luck with engines and proof that if you want it done right do it your damn self....) but this is basically my setup. The key is learning with what you got and making your car all flossy and ****. Learn to drive like a champ and buy **** as you feel your technique has outgrown the stock equipment.

 

What's the ideal wheel spec for n/a? Would 16x8 in the front and 16x9 in rear or 17x9 around work?

 

Cancel that!.. Run those 16x9 in the front and 15 on the rear... Rear tire should not be bigger than 205..

 

17x9 will be fine. 16s even better. 17s are way more flossy though :P I suggest 205s but I often run 215 40s as they tend to be easier to find in junk piles. For cheapness go with the 16s. Less weight and wayyy easier to find tires. 205 55s and 205 50s are a dime a dozen. Super easy an cheap to find tires for. With Proper offsets and/or spacing 16s can look pretty sexy as well. On stock body anyways. I bit the bullet and went 17s for bling factor. You'll notice a difference between the 2 but 17s are still way doable. Just stay away from 18s. Ask me how I know.... Feels like your trying to slide dragging led weights on your driveline. Hard as all hell.