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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 04:57 AM
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Aero install.

I'm waiting to hear back about an re-amemiya wangan spoiler and have a raceonusa roof spoiler on the way now.

My bn knock is in my attic.

I have a few questions that probably dont belong here but most of the rx7 fc guys are stock body and/or bought LEGIT aero that fits with very little modification.


I was told 3m industrial strength double sided tape is the ticket mounting my spoilers BUT i just dont trust "taping" spoilers to my car. Knowing my luck the **** will fall off on the highway, possibly killing someone and at best getting ran the **** over and destroyed.

My bn bumper (the "legs" that overlap onto the fender) seems like it's going to have about 3-4mm of gap between the fender and bumper.

What did you guys do to correct this? just pull the front part of the fender out until the gap between the bumper and fender was closed? The bumper isn't warped or uneven (surprised as **** for spending $450 shipped) and i assume most of you guys that rock knock didn't pay over what i did.


I think i've got the bumper issue figured out, just kinda sketch about taping $500 worth of spoiler on my car.....
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 05:46 AM
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Paint will cover any screws needed to make the aero flush. its not a show car so just throw some self tapping screws wherever to make it fit.
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 05:57 PM
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So just drill/insert self tapping screws from the hatch/deck area that go into the aero paired with the tape? Makes sense.

VHB tape. Is it as strong as they say?

I'm also assuming fender and 1/4 panel fitment is great with most brands but i've heard shitty things about dmax and bmagic fronts.
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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i have d max fronts and the fit fine i wouldnt use self tapping tho i used some adhesive that we use to put on bed side and quarther panels and that **** is plenty strong for fiber or resin based parts just get the kind that is meant for that bonding plastics or fiberglass to prepped metal way better and cleaner solution
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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yea im rockin dmax too. its wavy *** **** but fits great with BN. you can see the screw on the side skirt to the fender, i have some color matched ones that i sprayed seperately.


Front bumper to the skirt actually fits PERFECT. i doesnt need a screw but i threw one on for *****


the double sided tape is worthless

you can see in this pic

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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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Yep, i noticed the screws and you're right, i can't tell.



I noticed the dmax fenders poke near the door and have those nifty vents. That would fit better with bn. Good info.

And thanks alot!

Hopefully it's nice next week so i can work on it more. It's about all i can do until my check comes to finish off the underhood ****.
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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yea mine were wavy too i have msports i got from mohan i primed those things like 4 times cause i have ocd when it comes to that, but that probably cause i paint cars for a living. but yeah only use 3m for small stuff like molding it doesnt hold up well to things that have some weight
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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thats glues i was talking about is the ticket evercoat plastics makes it
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by NoPistons!


I noticed the dmax fenders poke near the door and have those nifty vents. That would fit better with bn. Good info.
Stock fenders look soooooo sick with BN dude...skirts flare more
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 12:59 AM
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Wow. It's been over a month and i'm STILL working on this kit.

I had to cut the skirts into two peices and had to cut sections out completely to mold and reglass.

not fun. The rear bumper is probably the easiest part of the kit so far because i'm so used to ******* with the other bits of glass that i've got fitting shitty aero down to a science. Front bumper took 3 weekends and a few weekdays (before work) before i finally finished the modification and near perfect fitment. All that's left is prep and primer. If i modified the bumper and skirts correctly, there will be no reverse rake and i flared the rear part of my skirts out about an inch in relation to the front so it will look more aggressive. Neat ****.

DO NOT and i repeat DO NOT buy item "mib body kit rx7" from ebay. Yeah, i know it's $450 shipped to your front door. It ******* sucks and isn't worth it unless you absolutely love polishing turds. It seems as though i do?

Not a day has gone by since i bought the damn thing i haven't itched..... Good news is, i'm almost done and i can post pics pre-primmer to show everyone EXACTLY what i had to do. NEVER again. I shatter these beyond repair and i'm going to buy shine/race on next time.
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 01:11 AM
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post pics? my kit sucks also i need to have down a lot to fit, but hey am just gona slap it on....
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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Good luck.

There was no "slapping it on", not unless i wanted my car to look like 90 percent of the united states self-kitted civics.... *shudders*

I'm going to take before and after pics of the skirts and rear. I didn't do any for the front bumper but will snap some prior to primmer. I'm working on my 1/4 panel as i type this so i'll try to get around to it later in the week. I have to sand, mask and primmer within the hour before i go to work.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:27 PM
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As promised, here's some shitty pics to show how shitty this kit fit on my shitty car.

I am far from done, even though the kit is pretty much ON THE CAR right now. Rear bumper needs work, sideskirts need finishing and everything needs to be sanded and primmed.

look at this trash.....







I cut this out so it would fit flush. It never occured to me to just cut the entire skirt in half. Even still, it wouldn't lay flush without cracking the thing.







Glob the **** on...... By **** i mean bondo brand short strand. It looks like semi-solid crap if you use a fair amount of hardener. Looks like baby **** if you use "workable" amounts of hardener or are slow as **** like i am.

And after ALOT of cutting, filing, more cutting, trimming.....sanding, bringing down gel coat...shitty uneven gel coat.... fixing...... Butchery, ichery..... Fiberglass mat, resin, short strand and a buttload of sanding later.....








We haz fitment. You can see how wavy it is. I need to bust out the sanding block and hit up the whole like along where the molding would sit so it doesn't look like ****. Excuse the secondary zip tie in the middle there. It wont be used for final install.

$450 + $60 in glass supplies + me going to the store this weekend to buy $45 more + work + sanding disks + leveler + more work......

Something told me i should have bought from shine, E.D. or race on...... Dont **** with random ebay sellers. Most of you already know that. Buy legit or buy from people who do a halfway decent job of cloning aero unless you LIKE this type of ****.

More info/pics along the way along with a cost tally. I'm sure this will help some people into making wise decisions.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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OH, tip. Save yourself a retard moment. If your skirts turn out like mine did, much easier/faster to cut them in half instead of cutting and re-glassing the ends completely.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 09:38 AM
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my friend has a whale tail on his 180sx and used 3m double sided tape. I know it sounds kinda sketchy but it'll stay on there and you wont have to worry about it. now thats for a roof spoiler or a spoiler that lays flush with the car, I wouldnt do it with a GT style wing with stands lol
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 09:58 AM
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I mounted my wing with screws... the wing SHOULD have areas under neath that allow a bolt to go in.... as for the ends around the hatch... you can actually use drywall screws, as cheap as it may sound, they sit flush in the tips of the spoiler and you can paint them... you might wanna tap and drill a pre-hole
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 10:39 AM
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all that work looks like it really paid off. going to suck when you blow it up though.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 01:26 PM
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my kit is the same way bro....it sucks i only have the front on, i think am gona sell the rest to a buddy....
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 02:30 PM
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Thanks guys.

Eddie, it's a race on usa roof spoiler. It's like a hollow, black banana pretty much. There aren't any "established" areas for screws. I think i have it figured out though.

I have to drill pilot holes in the hatch, mount the wing with the tape and then drill the self taps through the inside of the hatch into the wing. No other option really. Well, i could just not put it on?




Originally Posted by stevensimon
all that work looks like it really paid off. going to suck when you blow it up though.
Yeah. It'll look nice for a little while.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 03:30 AM
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Dude if you lived in Az i would hook you up with a fresh *** free paint job.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 05:27 AM
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i commend you on your patience. it looks good now
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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Well thank you sir's!

Like most of the car that isn't already in progress or done, i have no idea. I just make **** up as i go along at the last minute, regardless of the game plan.

If i do get some sample pearls/base/glow pigment, i'll screw around on a spare panel and see if i can get something boss. I really, really, really, dont want the same fc that's been done 30 times over.....
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 02:09 AM
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U should have jus made some relief cuts that's what i did, there's no need to cut the whole thing in half. Once the relief cuts are there jus put some screws for temp hold and you can glass in the cuts u made I fit my kit yes terday and it only took me a 2 hours but congrats to you for doing it ur way and making it work great
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 02:12 PM
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Yep. Pretty much it was a learning experience since i found NO INFO on how to do this.

I was like "well, i know how to mix resin and hardner, i know how to lay the **** on, i can use sandpaper........"

Talk about charging into a project with reckless abandon for anything logical. It beat having my thumb up my *** trying to google it. It would still be sitting in my attic. I'm almost done. It's just gotta be glazed and primmered now. I wont do it this way again.....
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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how does the roof spoiler fit
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