Diy on the cheap status.

Who's done it?

How was it?


Stock caster blows. Slamming the car only makes it worse. When i let go of the wheel, i want that **** to auto return as if it was pump assisted.


Keep this on the topic of drilling the strut tower. I'm well aware there are aftermarket plates i can buy for my coils that allow both camber and caster adjust but i dont need to "fine tweak" my caster for "track settings" and spend $150-250 to do it when i can invest that money elsewhere.

 

Like this?

i only did some street thrashing with it so far. My wheel does return a little quicker, but to be honest, my bushings are fucked and i have way to much play up front to tell. that and only a little time on it. you wont be able to run as much camber either. im just gonna go a with a caster correction kit for the A arm bushings, and caster/camber plates.

 

Thanks.

I want to speculate on the problems you're having in terms of bushings but i'll wait for someone else to chime in.


Anyone else done this?

 

seems like the castor mod is a waste of time.
all the dudes who are good and did it went back to stock later.

just get knuckles.

 

I have PSM coils and the top plate has the camber slot rotated ~45* back to increase the caster as the camber increases. These coils came with it from the shop, no mods required and the coils allow for over -3* camber without any modification to the knuckles. I have noticed that with the increased caster the front wheels track differently than stock and the wheel returns to center real nice and quick. I would suggest if you don't have coils to look at these ones and if you do then maybe you can do what dirt did and drill out your top plate to allow for more camber. Also what CJ said, an array of better arms and knuckles will obviously give you better geometry than slammed stock ****.

 

word.

 

i will see if one of my buddys will post how he did his he has i think it was 3 or 4 setting he can choose from stock to i think -7 its pretty crazy

 

I don't think that it's necessary to modify caster on an FC, at least not to make the wheel come back faster or anything.

Are you sure nothing's broken on your car, if the wheel is not returning as fast as it should be?

 

you need to modify you caster to make it come back fast trust me you want more caster

 

JTP and mike essa didnt **** with caster- you shouldnt either.

These arent 240s guys, dont apply 240 "tricks" to FCs.

 

Z-T has a bunch of threads with people complaining FC's dont have enough caster. I'm not the only one........

http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=26703.0

http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=6748.0

I'm finding most drifter/touge people like around 8 degrees. We get shitted with anywhere with 4.4-5.5 degrees.

Without a laser rack, could we calculate caster for how much the dead on 45* drilling method would provide for any given camber angle?

 

More caster is definetly ++++! The FCs doesnt have enaugh "auto return" or what you call it... I bought the coil tops from mazdatrix(?) and used the camber adjustment for caster and other way around. Gave me just the right amount of camber, and caster. Dont remember numbers! Im just driving =)

And offcourse.. Gotta have knuckles!

 

Adjust your camber at the knuckle.



Then turn the pillowball top mount so the caster can be adjusted.

Done


Right now i have a stupid amount of camber, and can have the caster adjusted likewise. if i dont like it i can zero it out or flip it back for camber (which i dont even use anyways).

so what if JTP or mike essa dont rock it... set your car up and find out what it does. its all trial and error dude. if you dont like it change it back to stock. just get comfortable with your setup and drive the car to its limits.

 

caster = good

the more the better (within reason you fucktards)

 

Yeah. You can have too much positive caster making turn in a bitch all together and possibly getting stuck at full lock. I said "possibly" because i dont know. Seems to happen on other cars with a good bit of caster and modded spindles.

 

i've seen drift samarai with this setup, but that was back in 04-05... i'm sure there's better setups since then..

i personally don't run this setup and see no need for it.. i've drifted FC's super low low... maybe not ilia low low (cheating with 17's haha) but low low enough with stock caster and never had a problem with the wheel returning.. with the proper amount of camber and angle steering should feel amazing...

what's your alignment settings and is your p/s working well?

 

haha awesome point, i want to repost this quote everywhere on rx7 club.

its that simple.

so many poeple on here talk like they know whats up- when in fact they are wrong or have no expirence with whatever they talk about. i love how many 'master pro drift racers' there are on the internet.

 

I have my own opinions about this, but here is the best answer.

Turn off your computer. Find a drill. Measure. Drill. Adjust. Drive. See if you like it.

Let us know how it goes, and your opinion.

 

mr. dave are you running the adjusted caster?

 

Nah dude. I use my steering wheel and brain to control my car.

 

lmao.. that's what i thought... just making sure.

 

i loled.

 

I'll be cheating with 16's.

P/S works fine. It's not blown, res is full, no leaks, new belt at proper tension.....etc......

I'm at about 3.5-4* negative camber, close to zero toe. It's not like it sticks, it's just not quick enough. During transitions, it's not that bad but if i'm driving normal, take a 90 degree corner, the wheel needs my hand to return it in a timely manner.

I've checked everything out and nothing is binding, nothing is wrapped around the steering column in the engine bay area..... No leaks from anything.....



It's about an inch lower than pictured now......

 

you got modified spindles or what?

 

Drifting doesn't need lots of caster. Use your hands to turn the steering wheel. Practice driving. The end.