45* strut tower drilling caster mod.
#1
45* strut tower drilling caster mod.
Diy on the cheap status.
Who's done it?
How was it?
Stock caster blows. Slamming the car only makes it worse. When i let go of the wheel, i want that **** to auto return as if it was pump assisted.
Keep this on the topic of drilling the strut tower. I'm well aware there are aftermarket plates i can buy for my coils that allow both camber and caster adjust but i dont need to "fine tweak" my caster for "track settings" and spend $150-250 to do it when i can invest that money elsewhere.
Who's done it?
How was it?
Stock caster blows. Slamming the car only makes it worse. When i let go of the wheel, i want that **** to auto return as if it was pump assisted.
Keep this on the topic of drilling the strut tower. I'm well aware there are aftermarket plates i can buy for my coils that allow both camber and caster adjust but i dont need to "fine tweak" my caster for "track settings" and spend $150-250 to do it when i can invest that money elsewhere.
#2
Full Member
Like this?
i only did some street thrashing with it so far. My wheel does return a little quicker, but to be honest, my bushings are fucked and i have way to much play up front to tell. that and only a little time on it. you wont be able to run as much camber either. im just gonna go a with a caster correction kit for the A arm bushings, and caster/camber plates.
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
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I have PSM coils and the top plate has the camber slot rotated ~45* back to increase the caster as the camber increases. These coils came with it from the shop, no mods required and the coils allow for over -3* camber without any modification to the knuckles. I have noticed that with the increased caster the front wheels track differently than stock and the wheel returns to center real nice and quick. I would suggest if you don't have coils to look at these ones and if you do then maybe you can do what dirt did and drill out your top plate to allow for more camber. Also what CJ said, an array of better arms and knuckles will obviously give you better geometry than slammed stock ****.
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#11
Z-T has a bunch of threads with people complaining FC's dont have enough caster. I'm not the only one........
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=26703.0
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=6748.0
I'm finding most drifter/touge people like around 8 degrees. We get shitted with anywhere with 4.4-5.5 degrees.
Without a laser rack, could we calculate caster for how much the dead on 45* drilling method would provide for any given camber angle?
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=26703.0
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=6748.0
I'm finding most drifter/touge people like around 8 degrees. We get shitted with anywhere with 4.4-5.5 degrees.
Without a laser rack, could we calculate caster for how much the dead on 45* drilling method would provide for any given camber angle?
#12
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Norway
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More caster is definetly ++++! The FCs doesnt have enaugh "auto return" or what you call it... I bought the coil tops from mazdatrix(?) and used the camber adjustment for caster and other way around. Gave me just the right amount of camber, and caster. Dont remember numbers! Im just driving =)
And offcourse.. Gotta have knuckles!
And offcourse.. Gotta have knuckles!
#13
\\TRASHTALK//
Adjust your camber at the knuckle.
Then turn the pillowball top mount so the caster can be adjusted.
Done
Right now i have a stupid amount of camber, and can have the caster adjusted likewise. if i dont like it i can zero it out or flip it back for camber (which i dont even use anyways).
so what if JTP or mike essa dont rock it... set your car up and find out what it does. its all trial and error dude. if you dont like it change it back to stock. just get comfortable with your setup and drive the car to its limits.
Then turn the pillowball top mount so the caster can be adjusted.
Done
Right now i have a stupid amount of camber, and can have the caster adjusted likewise. if i dont like it i can zero it out or flip it back for camber (which i dont even use anyways).
so what if JTP or mike essa dont rock it... set your car up and find out what it does. its all trial and error dude. if you dont like it change it back to stock. just get comfortable with your setup and drive the car to its limits.
#16
Hot Line
iTrader: (13)
Diy on the cheap status.
Who's done it?
How was it?
Stock caster blows. Slamming the car only makes it worse. When i let go of the wheel, i want that **** to auto return as if it was pump assisted.
Keep this on the topic of drilling the strut tower. I'm well aware there are aftermarket plates i can buy for my coils that allow both camber and caster adjust but i dont need to "fine tweak" my caster for "track settings" and spend $150-250 to do it when i can invest that money elsewhere.
Who's done it?
How was it?
Stock caster blows. Slamming the car only makes it worse. When i let go of the wheel, i want that **** to auto return as if it was pump assisted.
Keep this on the topic of drilling the strut tower. I'm well aware there are aftermarket plates i can buy for my coils that allow both camber and caster adjust but i dont need to "fine tweak" my caster for "track settings" and spend $150-250 to do it when i can invest that money elsewhere.
i personally don't run this setup and see no need for it.. i've drifted FC's super low low... maybe not ilia low low (cheating with 17's haha) but low low enough with stock caster and never had a problem with the wheel returning.. with the proper amount of camber and angle steering should feel amazing...
what's your alignment settings and is your p/s working well?
#17
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its that simple.
so many poeple on here talk like they know whats up- when in fact they are wrong or have no expirence with whatever they talk about. i love how many 'master pro drift racers' there are on the internet.
#18
I have my own opinions about this, but here is the best answer.
Turn off your computer. Find a drill. Measure. Drill. Adjust. Drive. See if you like it.
Let us know how it goes, and your opinion.
Turn off your computer. Find a drill. Measure. Drill. Adjust. Drive. See if you like it.
Let us know how it goes, and your opinion.
#23
i've seen drift samarai with this setup, but that was back in 04-05... i'm sure there's better setups since then..
i personally don't run this setup and see no need for it.. i've drifted FC's super low low... maybe not ilia low low (cheating with 17's haha) but low low enough with stock caster and never had a problem with the wheel returning.. with the proper amount of camber and angle steering should feel amazing...
what's your alignment settings and is your p/s working well?
i personally don't run this setup and see no need for it.. i've drifted FC's super low low... maybe not ilia low low (cheating with 17's haha) but low low enough with stock caster and never had a problem with the wheel returning.. with the proper amount of camber and angle steering should feel amazing...
what's your alignment settings and is your p/s working well?
I'll be cheating with 16's.
P/S works fine. It's not blown, res is full, no leaks, new belt at proper tension.....etc......
I'm at about 3.5-4* negative camber, close to zero toe. It's not like it sticks, it's just not quick enough. During transitions, it's not that bad but if i'm driving normal, take a 90 degree corner, the wheel needs my hand to return it in a timely manner.
I've checked everything out and nothing is binding, nothing is wrapped around the steering column in the engine bay area..... No leaks from anything.....
It's about an inch lower than pictured now......