Hey all. I have a $2000 buget for my 1985 Rx-7 GSL, what mods do you say I should do? I would like to set teh car up for drifting, but still have something streetable, since it will be my daily, in the summers.

I am shooting for about 150hp, I do not want to crack open the motor, because I do not have the proper tools lol.

I was thinking mikuni carb, and manifold(used)
Racing beat exhaust(used)
Front coilovers ( if I can get my hands on a welder)
Stiff rear springs (used)
maybe a used racing beat front sway bar
poly bnushings I have already installed
and hp on all 4s

Do you think I could do that for 2 grand?

 

TII Swap. Should keep you under $2000 if you do the labour yourself.

 

I can sell you my 13b with header everything

 

I also want to do the suspention work too, so If I can do the suspention work, and swap in a 13b, or better yet a 13b-RE then I would be happy. But I also like the 12A, it is so small and cute lol.

In adressing nigel, what 13b is it? is it an s3 13B? or s4, or s5?

 

bump

 

Weber 48 IDA or Dellorto 48 DHLA carb + RB exhaust on a stock 12A will get you 150hp or more. Check ebay etc for a Racing Beat Dellorto kit. You should be able to find one for ~300$.

 

i will do that. What about suspention? What kind of mods should I do there? What about the big break up grade?

 

There are tonnes of things you can do for little money.
Nick1 bough a gsl for 600 bucks, and as of right now, its the most reliable car he's ever had (in 11 plus years), and the grand total: $860.47. thats it. this includes:

swapping motor, and finding a sutible replacement.
intake gasket
eibach coilovers
2 enkei rims w/tires
ripoff momo steering wheel and shift ****
momo seat
3 piece urethane bumper(the ubber rare one)

If you want, i can help with the motor, PM me, and we can set something up. I haven't done a 13b->s3 swap yet, but i know a local who has(feds) and i could pull from his knowledge. also, the isnt many tools invoved in the process, but i have all of them required to do the job.

 

As for suspention, racing beat is really good, I rode in a RB preped car, and was very forgiving, as well as smooth. tokico blues are really cheap or even the illumana's would be good.the big brake upgrade is ok, but only if you go to the bigger power engine. id just get a set of good pads and some rotors, and practice

 

Thanks for teh offer on the engine swap. I think I will go with a nice carb instead, but I suck like *** at tuning carbs lol, so could you help me with that when the time calls. As for the RB preped car did it just have nice shocks, RB springs, and sway bars, or was there more to it?

My last thing is that I have some crazy positive chamber on the front right wheel on my car? I whiped out autxing, and bent something, but I cannot seem to figure out what, any ideas?

ALso one last question for fufourmike. How far is Welland from Brantford?

 

An hour and a bit, but im always up for hanging out with new rx-7 guys.
The car itself was an 86 gxl with tokiko blues(stock-like replacements.) and the roll bar kit. I havent driven a 1st gen with it, but i would imagine that it would be very similar, giving very progresive break away, and not too harsh for city driving. If you like autox, and like most 1st gen guys, dont want to blow the bank to make their car fast, this would be a good system.
For carbs, i know mikuni/delordo/webber look very cool, but holley carbs with give better drivability, have aftermarket(aftermarket support of the aftermarket, go figure) support, and any mechanic can tune it. you can find them for less as well, usually like 300 bucks for the whole sha-bang, whereas you would be lucky to find a manifold and carb alone for that price if you go webber.

my idea for the crazy camber, the tension rod might have gone kaput, the bushings are usually really bad after 25 years, or it could be 4 or 5 other things as well.

 

I see, I see. I Just did a poly bushing instal. Do you have a picture of the tension rod? I have no idea what anything is called, under there lol.... bad with names 'till I die.

I thought about going holley, but I read that they starve in corners.

 

Good luck getting both 150hp AND suspension from 2G. With the numbers below, it looks easily possible, but that's just parts, no labour... and the Little Things (tm) always add up. Camp ebay and the classified sections and grab deals. It may take a while but you'll get it.

Personally, my fav carb is the Sterling. Amazing little pieces of work they are, and cheaper than most aftermarket kits are new.

For suspension, an awesome bang-for-your-buck setup is RB springs and KYB shocks. It may not be adjustible, but it's an awesome setup, and you don't *really* need the adjustibility until you get into some serious track or autocross. This setup should run you only about $500 after shipping, exchange (as long as you either ship USPS or go accross the boarder to pick it up, though exchange is pretty good now, so it won't be TOO much more otherwise).

From Mazdatrix (ignore the XGSLSE, it's for all 81-85s):

STRUT KYB (INSERT) 81-85 FRONT XGSLSE H-363010 $53.26
SHOCK KYB GR-2 79-85 REAR H-343140 $48.01
SUSP SPRING F 79-85 SPRING FRONT EACH H-14018 $50.00
SUSP SPRING R 79-85 SPRING REAR EACH H-14019 $42.00

193.27 for ONE of each... And since you need two of each, that brings the total to: 386.54

that leaves $1500 for your Intake and exhaust

I would go for the Sterling (I think they're about $350-400USD, you'd have to PM him for info. Ask about the ported manifolds, they're good too) So we'll say about $500CDN

Now you've got $1000 left. Get an RB exhaust.

With whatever is left over get a jet kit for the carb (The only one I know is at Jegs. It's $180, but it has 4 of each jet, you only need two so try to find someone to split with. Hint Hint: I'll be getting one soon) and do a tune-up of anything you haven't already done (reliability is always a concern, so make sure you've got all the simple bases covered like filters, fluids, plugs, plug wires, air filter, etc...)



That's my take on it. Again, I just spent your $2G on parts alone, no labour or little things (like shipping). And you'll have to do some of your own tuning, but that's half the fun.

I won't claim to know *anything* about drifting, I don't... so maybe the suspension setup that I suggested isn't ideal, I don't know. I would think it's an alright starting point. Eibach makes stiffer springs than RB, but they're more expensive. Tokico makes adjustible shocks, but again, expensive. I don't know who makes coilovers and can't remember who makes camber plates.

And of course, your fuel system hasn't had an update either, so whatever aftermarket carb you get will starve at the high end. At least the sterling runs at stock psi, unlike some of the other carbs like Holley which expect higher pressures. If you went with a holley or mikuni you'd almost certainly need a fuel pump right off the bat. The Sterling lets you do it in stages. I recommend either a Mallory comp 70 or comp 110 (you can pick them up on ebay) combined with a Holley 1-4psi regulator for that Sterling. Other carbs may need a different regulator or none at all.

Jon

 

Well, that's his take, but he's still new at it lol.

A 1st gen is never going to be much of a drift car with the stock rearend and low torque, but if I were you:

1. Obviously, make sure all wear parts on your car are in good shape before you start trying to drift around (coolant hoses, fan clutch, brakes, tie rods, ball joints...). You'll probably go through 500$ right there. Also, make sure the lsd isnt worn out. No point in spending all your money on parts just to realise you need new clutches in there and have no $.

2. While you're looking for parts, start lightening your car. It's free and it will make the biggest difference. Stuff like soundproofing under the carpets, behind the firewall, airpump, a/c etc. A cheap race seat would be a good idea at this point too.

3. Find a used full RB exhaust. Dual primaries would be best but might be tough to come by. This will be your big HP mod... you might not feel you need a carb after you get this. A bigger fuel pump and regulator would be a good idea now too.

4. You'll pretty much need adjustable suspension for drifting. I would say spend most of your $ here. Tokico Illuminas all around (so you can dial in a rock hard rearend), RB springs and an adjustable rear sway bar (like RB). You should replace all your bushings while you're at it too.

You'll probably have spent all your money by now... but you'll have a solid base to build onto in the future.

When you've had time to build up some more capital and want a carb, I say Weber/Dellorto would be your best bet... 1st gen section has full Dellorto carb/manifold kits for around 500$. I'd stay away from Holley, they are expensive, cheaply built and have limited jetting. They were designed for drag use, not corners. A (modified) stock Nikki (Sterling etc) isnt designed with ease of use and simplicity in mind, is a bitch to open up and jet and never seems to run properly (if I use the people around here who use them as examples). A Dellorto kit is pure do it yourself bolt on, has a choke and is simple to size and jet (which you'll probably need to do for maximum torque in the low end).

The other huge advantage of running a Dellorto is that if you ever want to swap in a 13B, all you'll need is the stock 13B GSLSE lower manifold to bolt the Dellorto up to it. You can even retain the six port setup!

...13B/6port Dellorto, Illuminas, RB exhaust... I need another car

 

lol. Thanks for the great imput. I haev a messed up RB header I am working on instaling as we speak ( I got it for 20$ at a scrap yard). As for teh springs, would Eibachs not be better? Perhapse it is worth the extra coin for Eibachs? As for a clutch there is a nice 6 puck sprung race clutch made by exedy that is on ebay right now. 160CAD buy it now. ( My stock clutch still has plenty of life but what the heck). Also I just replaced all the bushings, so they are all good. The only thing I have is that my ball joint covers are done, and I cannot seem to get my hands on new ball joint covers.

Thanks for all the imput so far guys

 

By clutches I meant the ones in the Limited Slip Differential... its job is to allow both rear wheels to get power even if one is spinning faster than the other. This is essential for drifting. If your clutch (engine) is still fine, I would just stick with it til you need one, then you can upgrade.

 

Don't listen to RXcetera. He thinks the overheat coolant flush doesn't work...

 

lol. This is what I am thinking


Suspension: Eibach springs, Tokico HP or Iluminas (if funds permit), Racing beat front sway bar, RB rear sway bar (if funds permit), poly bushings ( already done), new rotors, and nice pads, and stainles steel brake lines.

Engine option 1: stockport 12a, intake manifold & Mikuni or Delorto, RB header, 4.77 rear end gears

Engine option 2: stock port 13B engine swap from an FC, RB header 4.77 rear end gears

You think those are doable for my budget? I am also not sure about which engine option I want to go with. the 13B is heavier, but its fuel injected. I am also unsure about cost. I am also unsure if I want 4.77 gears, or 4.44 gears, but I am leangin towards the 4.77 side.

What option would you say is best?

 

eibaches are set up more for drag launching than the Rb set.

rates for front:

rb-145
eibach-171

rear:

rb-110
eibach-100

straight from mazdatrix's web site.

drtifting you kinda want to have the rear as solid as posible. most places say dont use poly bushings in the rear because it will mess with the watts link, but if you stiffen it right up, i dont think it would hurt.

also, you get like 50 bucks off if you buy the whole suspention at one time, so that also helps RB.

also your gearing idea is bad. very bad. Someone could work out the math,but im tired and lazy, but i think you would get through all five gears before you hit your neighbour's house.

go option 1, as it lets you learn about all these things cheaply, as a blown 12a can be fixed easily with a 300 buck 12a, as opposed to fighting the 2nd gen guys for the good deals.

 

Would you be doing the work? Cause this is a big job if you're planning on retaining the stock FI... might as well go T2 engine if you're thinking of swaping everything over. Or buy a GSL-SE.

 

I did Pm Ted over My 13b EfI N/A that would fit his Budget.If the Prospective buyer I had contacted before doesn't take it though,I will most likely Inform YOU TED..just to make certain that you could still have a Crack at it before I post it as a sale item Here.But Ted,I'm sure you will Suprise us all with what you Engineer on this Baby..Good Luck my Friend.Misterstyx.

 

LOL. I do not see how it is difficult to retain stock FI on the 13b, could you enlighten me RXcetera?

I am starting to like that 50$ off part if I go with all RB stuff. To me that sounds like it is worth it right there.

I also have a gear chart, and 4.77 gears are only like a 22% increase in RPM. I could hit 130mph no problem if I wanted. Probably I could top off at 150mph or so at 8000rpm.

I may also go 4.44 which is alot mroe streetable, but it is also alot less fun too lol.

Misterstyx69, I am actualy becomeing really intrested in the engine you have up for grabs. I Pmed you back lol.