Are these still useable to refresh my engine?
#2
On a more serious note lol ... Anyone know what could of caused this? This happened putting around back home at about 3k rpm. Me and Aaron tried to think of what all could of happened to it and I think we came to the conclusion it was probably something that has partially failed before and has now just decided to let go.
I found it amazing that no seals were damaged in the process though! The eccentric shaft is gone at the front side along with that rotor. That rotor was actually out of shape, the one side seal was really pinched in there and broke that seal trying to take it out, and the front stationary gear needless to say needs replacing also.
As Aaron put it last night, it was an EPIC fail
The side irons do have some very light scoring, but assessing it we could probably lap it and it would be just fine to use.
I found it amazing that no seals were damaged in the process though! The eccentric shaft is gone at the front side along with that rotor. That rotor was actually out of shape, the one side seal was really pinched in there and broke that seal trying to take it out, and the front stationary gear needless to say needs replacing also.
As Aaron put it last night, it was an EPIC fail
The side irons do have some very light scoring, but assessing it we could probably lap it and it would be just fine to use.
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ive seen this a couple of times.
1st one was a pro7 car, i think the driver wanted 4th but got 2nd (or maybe 5th and 3rd?) engine saw 12k+ rpms, it still ran, but it sounded like a piston engine.
2nd. was this one. http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOF/K2RD/k2rdhof01.html Mr Ko had it on the 8250rpm rev limiter for a while, and um it came apart. i asked around and Rick Weldon, had had something like that happen before, they had built a bunch of engines for one guy, and once they removed the rev limiters, they stopped having problems. its like the start/stop of the limiter, with 8000rpms of kinetic energy, is not good.
cliff notes? um an over rev will cause it, too much time on the rev limiter will cause it. in our case, with the ITS engine, the low pressure was a little low too. i notice your bearings look really F-ed up.
it IS a little unusual that it let go putting around, that i haven't seen.
1st one was a pro7 car, i think the driver wanted 4th but got 2nd (or maybe 5th and 3rd?) engine saw 12k+ rpms, it still ran, but it sounded like a piston engine.
2nd. was this one. http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOF/K2RD/k2rdhof01.html Mr Ko had it on the 8250rpm rev limiter for a while, and um it came apart. i asked around and Rick Weldon, had had something like that happen before, they had built a bunch of engines for one guy, and once they removed the rev limiters, they stopped having problems. its like the start/stop of the limiter, with 8000rpms of kinetic energy, is not good.
cliff notes? um an over rev will cause it, too much time on the rev limiter will cause it. in our case, with the ITS engine, the low pressure was a little low too. i notice your bearings look really F-ed up.
it IS a little unusual that it let go putting around, that i haven't seen.
#10
Well i think if it was at higher RPM it might of done more damage, but like I said irons, rear rotor, both housings, are all good including all the seals! Its just a very localized parts failure. And it locked up the motor almost instantly, I think if I had more revs into it it would of been more catastrophic.
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Any shop with a large enough surface grinder or better yet blancher grinder can do them for you. They're not lapped from the factory, they're blancher ground.
#19
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Seen it on a race car was a oiling issue to the bearings. Tore all the teeth off the just like you did, except he did it 3 times before he realised what happened. There are oil galleries that need to be lined up to prevent the bearing from over heating and when the bearing starts to lock up the teeth get shed.
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Good one!
Damaged tooth or seizure due to low or no oil to the bearing.
Any pics of the eshaft?
If you were going faster, you might have shown us a broken eshaft!!!
Don't know of any specific lapping shops.
Search for one with a "blanchard" grinder.
If you have very light scratches and don't need to really remove material, (mostly glaze), you can do the Lynn Hannover thing with a random orbital sander, 180-400grit carbide paper and kerosene.
Or valve grinding compound with the housing on glass.
Or slowly lap two housings against each other on a drill press/mill with an off center chuck made of wood.
Lynn has posted methods in a few other rotary places, some that can't be named
http://www.lucubration.com/cozy13bt/cleaning
Search for "Lapping" on flyrotary.com
Damaged tooth or seizure due to low or no oil to the bearing.
Any pics of the eshaft?
If you were going faster, you might have shown us a broken eshaft!!!
Don't know of any specific lapping shops.
Search for one with a "blanchard" grinder.
If you have very light scratches and don't need to really remove material, (mostly glaze), you can do the Lynn Hannover thing with a random orbital sander, 180-400grit carbide paper and kerosene.
Or valve grinding compound with the housing on glass.
Or slowly lap two housings against each other on a drill press/mill with an off center chuck made of wood.
Lynn has posted methods in a few other rotary places, some that can't be named
http://www.lucubration.com/cozy13bt/cleaning
Search for "Lapping" on flyrotary.com
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