I have pulled a few motors out by standiing inside the engine bay and pulling the short block out by hand, no ropes or sticks. That is a workout!!!

 

Well the motor is apart. One cracked apex seal front housing.
The motor was missing one apex seal spring in the front housing.
All apex seals looked new but side seals looked used. To be sure I will have to measure. These seals look like the new two peice. They have a super sharp corner seal. Not sure why mazda uses these. Is this normal? I thought the two peice seals had a 2mm tip to the corner seal. These are more like triangle pieces.

The rear housing had all intact apex seals but the housing is garbage. Reason for the low compression. It has two huge scars about 1mm to 2mm deep. These would have to exist since rebuild since you can see the carbon trails on the rotor from this blow by.

So what is needed.

Two housings and one rotor (Rotor has a nick on it so apex seal fits to tight). And possible new Haltech to run the thing properly but mainly to get rid of the hacked harness. We already had to splice in the tac signal since the harness has a split somewhere.

Ian

 

just go and buy the 10AE. ask either derek or myself...

 

So does this mean that whoever rebuilt that engine should be shot? Were the housings new as advertized?

 

[QUOTE=Cheers!]just go and buy the 10AE. ask either derek or myself...[/QUOTE

Aahahahah sure jay love to get it, you wanna lend me the money till i get another job. Im good for it

 

The rear housing had all intact apex seals but the housing is garbage. Reason for the low compression. It has two huge scars about 1mm to 2mm deep. These would have to exist since rebuild since you can see the carbon trails on the rotor from this blow by.

So what is needed.

Two housings and one rotor (Rotor has a nick on it so apex seal fits to tight). And possible new Haltech to run the thing properly but mainly to get rid of the hacked harness. We already had to splice in the tac signal since the harness has a split somewhere.

 

Copying and pasting the original post that didn't make sense to me doesn't answer my question

 

[QUOTE=twinturbofc]The amount of money required to make that red car work again is greater than the money needed to purchase that mint 10AE.

 

Ian you look like a tank in those pictures..

 

Jay, this is what I would do in your situation.

I would take nopistonsfc to small claims court. It will cost you about $50 to do so. Since it was a private sale, court is the only option since Consumer Protection Act, etc. only apply to dealers. Doesn't matter that this was a private sale, you still have rights. You were mislead in the advertisement, and other people have won in court for similar issues.

Fact is, he told you the car was rebuilt with new components that were not present. Get a mechanic to inspect the engine components and write you a letter stating that they are not only 3000km old. Find other people (unrelated to you) that also know about what you've gone through with this POS to go with you. Print out every thread that mentions your car.

It will cost you $50, and it will cost you time, but you should be able to get damages out of him.

This is bullshit that should not be tolerated.

 

It will be hard to prove(in court) that a wear component was new or used during the rebuild thousands of kilometers ago. You would need to have an experienced rotary engine builder have a look at the parts, and even then the seller could just claim you abused the engine or something.

Was the missing apex seal spring due to it falling out with the broken seal? Or due to improper assembly?

I'd like to see some pics of the housings, it would be interesting to see what A-spec considers a reusable housing(these were supposed to be "new" right?). A 1 mm deep gouge in the housing is ridiculous...

 

It would also be very hard to prove anything after we pulled the motor apart. They could also say we planted bad parts, I don't think it would be worth the time or energy. We will just have to swallow it and move on to the rebuild. At least now we will truly know that it was rebuilt precise and proper.

 

I doubt that the other side would even bother to show up, which would result in a default judgment in Jay's favour provided he could prove that the other side was appropriately served.

The problem doesn't really reside in obtaining a favourable order but more so when trying to collect the money. The courts merely give you a piece of paper stating that X owes you Y, but offer no solutions for recovery.

Mike, isn't that comment for the 'other' type of chat room you frequent.

 

Wild stuff. I thought the car was running, obviously it let let go recently? I like how evilRotor took pictures while they injured themselves.

I haven't helped remove an engine in that manner, but I have helped to move one around that way and a few times by just grabbing the engine (including a long block from my hatch). The real question is will you use a toboggan to get it into your basement?

The next meet there should be a engine moving race. Pairs of contestants are required run the quarter with a long block.

 

I don't know what you were smoking when you posted that but i'm very interested

 

That's what I meant, get an experienced mechanic to look at them. And yes, they were supposed to be brand new.

 

So give up, let a scammer get away with it, so he knows that he can pull this **** on the next person? It's not just the engine, it's other stuff as well that you were supposed to get, that was not on the car, and I don't remember him denying those accusations in the other thread, but just saying that the parts you did get are a good deal considering what you paid. That is all stuff you could sue for damages for, and just the possibility that you will get all or part of your money back should be worth the attempt.

Besides, how much of a hassle is it really? You go there, pick up the forms, fill them out, return them with your $50. You print out all threads, you get the engine looked at, and grab any friends that are witness to this ordeal. It's not that stressful. Couple hours worth of work.

 

Well its hard to tell if the front housing is brand new. They were in good condition except for the blown corner seal taking out the housings.

The rear is what is in question since the seals were ok but the housings were not. The scars on the housing were unbelievable deep which would have had to been there during the rebuild. These were not long trailing ones but ones with 1 inch in length and 2mm deep. "approx"

These are definantly not new parts but good condition parts.

Overall this is a lost battle. Since A-spec will not warrantly blown seals even thought the car was said to have been tuned for 15psi and the car was only running 8psi. We did remove the getto fuel controller and installed a haltech F5 and verified A/F ratio's with a Wideband.

The combination of an S4 ecu and twin turbo's pushing air throught the mass air flow sensor and getto rigged TPS must have contributed to a slight lean spot during 3500rpm. (Also the fuel cut was accomplished by previous owner disconnecting the map sensor (boost sensor). We also installed my Mazdee's remapped ecu good for 14psi on a stock turbo with removed boost cut and reinstalled a "turbo" map sensor.

We should have been safe but obviously not. Timing was not set right to begin with. All said the car would have not lasted probable that long driving it as bought. Its too bad all of this new parts/time/money have not accomplished much.

That said once reassemble the car will be way better. Its already much better then before. Just need to find good cheap engine parts

Only fix is to get haltech E6X and rebuild.

 

From the webcam pics Jay was showing me yesterday, it looks like the tops(closing) of the exhaust ports were not beveled. Its kind of hard to tell for sure via webcam, but this would certainly contribute to greatly accelerated apex seal failure.

 

Tiger Japanese had a RE longblock a couple of weeks ago. Joe 'Rotoryrocket1' is going there on Wednesday, you could ask him to get you a price for you. I think it was about $1300 but it gets cheaper the longer it sits.

 

or you could buy almosts "parts engine" it's already been a 1/3 ported too, he wasn't wanting too much i don't think. shoot him a pm.

 

The were not beveled at all. This was something before the tear down I was interested to see if it was so and was telling jay that would be the first thing I would look at.

I've heard that these things not being beveled can eat a seal but I don't think this was the case unless it caused it to jump.

Ian

 

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=31895

Excerpt(Judge Ito):

I have found many engines done by other people that have left this sharp edge behind creating some serious damage and premature wear on the apex seal including radius lost on the apex seal.
---

So maybe the low compression of the engine was caused by this accelerated apex wear. Then again when you have housings with gouges in them its hard to say.

 

It get's cheaper when you bring cash and say you want to leave with it

 

whooo does it ever, my $600 cash no tax jspec ******* owns.

go there. bring cash. leave with engine. it's pretty easy!