PnoyRx7

iTrader: (3)

what fees do i need to pay if i want to register it in my name, i am not plating it as of right now and i just want to register it.


it wont come with a safety so will i have to register it as "unfit" ? is there fees to change it to "fit" when i safety it next month ?

what are the costs of fees and taxes ?

anybody know ? i looked on the MTO website but its not very helpful.


comes e tested though.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Your best bet is to go to the MTO nearest you and ask. That way you'll get all the correct info instead of something that may be an assumption or has changed in the recent years. They may even have a pamphlet so you might not have to wait in line.

AmT_T

iTrader: (11)

When I bought my rx7 from Quebec, I had to get a safety before they would give me my plates. you can get a temp. then go get your safety. I had to pay the equivalent of the taxes on what I payed for the car.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

First off you have to Safety it to make it fit..If the Car needs an Etest you can get a temp when you Safety it,then You can drive the car to the "Smog Station" to Etest it.after you pass the Etest you can go and get the Paperwork solidified at the MTO and get your Plates,(providing you have insurance..lol!)Most likely you will have to Pay for them to Print up a FIT Registration.( about 10 bucks).
I don't think that you can get a Temp without a safety,Unless the car was plated before.
If the car is older than 1987 you are gonna need an appraisal just to Get it put in your name(in Ontario).This is so the Gov't can take it's share of taxes for the car sale.

PnoyRx7

iTrader: (3)

i just want to register it in my name, i wont be plating it yet

RX7 Project

iTrader: (3)

I know for sure you can't get a trip permit in Ontario anymore without plating it,in the past they gave you a paper temp that stuck to the windshield,but now its a "T" that goes on your new plates where your val. tag is suppose to be.I'm 99% sure you can pay the taxes to transefer "unfit" now then pay a small fee for a reprint(like Styx says $10 or $15)Plus plates and val. tags(And don"t forget about your used vechile package @$20.if you don"t already have it)If I were you I'd wait and do it all at the same time when you saftey it.Hope this helps.Chad

PnoyRx7

iTrader: (3)

well i have to register the car in my name within 6 days, im not safetying it within that time zone. im getting it flat bedded to my place. i just want to mke sure everything is in my name before i take it. plus the guy is giving me the UVIP on saturday.

djphonics

iTrader: (1)

you'll be required to pay your taxes, that would be about it. when you get your plates, you will need a safety certificate, a valid e-test. Without a bill of sale, they may require you get an appraisal for the taxed amount.

As someone stated though, double check with your local MTO office. I will say be careful, my local office doesn't know some of their own rules either.

ohh and of course you need to provide proof of ownership!

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

all cars 20 years or older (1991 or older) need to be appraised before you can transfer the title, they ether tax you on red book value, bill of sale, or the appraisal which ever is the most. you will be taxed 13%(HST) on that amount. i know the red book value for s4 and probably s5 rx7s is $0. after that you need to also have the used vehicle information package as well as the signed ownership (obviously).

thats it for title transfer as unfit.

ItsFun

iTrader: (25)

hahah AFTER you pass the smog test, I wonder how many never made it past that.

djphonics

iTrader: (1)

i beat it by 0.01! let the car warm up, and use premium

my bill of sale did suffice for the mto btw. but they still made me get an appraisal for some reason

ItsFun

iTrader: (25)

yeah I passed by 1 point.... but I was under hotrod standards hahah man it barely passed as a hotrod, too funny.

djphonics

iTrader: (1)

they're too strict on our cars. with 17 cylinders it's difficult to pass an e-test. (check your e-test paper for cylinder comment)

PnoyRx7

iTrader: (3)

its not a 7 :P 1999 B5 passat wagon w/stick :P fully loaded

CloudPump

iTrader: (2)

To register a vehicle as unfit you will be required to pay tax and an $8.00 fee to get a new ownership printed.

I just registered my car as unfit in early december.

-Geoff

CloudPump

iTrader: (2)

You probably would have passed by more if you had used regular. Premium gas has a higher octane rating which means it is more resistant to combustion, thus more unburned hydrocarbons will pass through the combustion chamber.

-Geoff

23Racer

WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How do you know this?

Eric

rx7racerca

iTrader: (1)

The fuel's octane rating just refers to its resistance to compression ignition (detonation), it doesn't particularly say anything further about the burn characteristics of the fuel once ignited, whether by spark/heat or by unintended detonation. So it's unlikely the fuel choice matters one way or another if the car doesn't need premium to run normally. If the premium fuel uses ethanol to achieve a higher octane number, on the other hand, that may influence the results, since ethanol brings extra O2 to the game. Which way it affects it, I'm not sure - extra O2 should burn cleaner, but it may also trick the O2 sensor into increasing the fuel mix.

CloudPump

iTrader: (2)

I'll agree that a (very large) amount of further study would be required to figure out how this would effect emissions testing.

I would also agree that higher octane fuels are used to combat detonation and that detonation is caused by compression ignition. However compression ignition is just a "different" source of heat causing the fuel to pre-ignite (compression causes heat), and to resist this, the fuel is more resistant to combustion at lower temperatures.

I don't know what this says for the fuel once it's properly ignited.

I do know that for non-turbo rotarys, everything I've read says the lower the octane the better the fuel economy...

-Geoff

23Racer

Wow....... lots of conjecture here and a basic misunderstanding of what people have been saying. In a rotary that is near stock, regular unleaded is all you need due to its bathtub style of combustion chamber and relatively low compression. The combustion chamber is nice and open and doesn't have any designed in hot spots. It is also mostly aluminum so the combustion heat gets wicked away very quickly into the water jacket. All of these things promote a natural detonation resistance in a rotary motor. This natural detonation resistance is why you can use regular unleaded fuel.

A regular piston engined combustion chamber has, what is known as, squish areas and swirl turbulence areas built in to extract a homogenous mix of air and fuel in the combustion chamber to aid in firing the mixture. Some of these swirl and squish areas act as natural heat sinks and run hotter than the majority of the combustion chamber. This hotter area, combined with its tendency to have higher instantanious pressures can lead to uncontrolled ignition sites. This can also occur when carbon deposits are heated up and act as glow plugs that ignite the incoming mixture. As a side note it is important to understand the difference between detonation, knocking and compression ignition. The first 2 are uncontrolled, erratic firing of the mixture by unwanted external causes and the third is a controlled ignition from the heat of compression. This only can occur in a diesel engine when the fuel is added to air that is above the ignition point of the fuel due to temperature rise from compressing it.

So, to get back to the original point after a bunch of the basics, rotaries in an NA state with standard ignition timings, run very well on regular unleaded as they have limited to no desire to develop a situation where detonation will occur. In turbo cars or cars with non-standard timing, premium fuel may need to be used to resist those engines tendency to detonate or knock. The standard premium fuels don't add power.

If you use street style premium fuel in an NA, the fuels used to raise octane ratings tend to also act as oxygenators. This will also tend to make your car run cleaner as they are freeing up oxygen as they burn. The only issue with this is an NA doesn't need it and you are wasting your Fuel $$$$$ by using premium in the car. Fuel economy doesn't go down, fuel spend economy goes down. The mileage should remain the same, but the dollar cost per mile will go up.

RX7racerca has it correct, I just wanted to add a bit of theory behind it so that it is easier to understand........hopefully. I am not even going to get into oxygenated racing fuels like the VP Q16 product, look it up if you are interested.

Eric

01Racing

Well all I can add to this is that our 13B Peripheral Port which is probably one of the more radical rotary runs on ........................good old 87, our timing is set at
20D leading and 15D trailing.

djphonics

iTrader: (1)

for the record i do run the car on 87, but for the e-test i used 91, before i purchased the car i was told that it had failed previously, and all i know is that it passed when i put it on the dyno to get some reference numbers.