Syritis

iTrader: (2)

This was built to be My track car for the Calgary Sport Car Club Solo1 events and the occasional friday open track night at Race City. With form always fallowing function, performance was always the number one consideration. but with the future of race city not looking for good I wanted the car to street legal, or as close to that i wouldn't get harassed that often.

We'll start with the motor that I build for my White 7 (RIP)

This little beauty is a street ported REW from a 93. explained by the previous owner it was built in vancouver and only had a simple street port but had been over heated. it was quite a surprise to me when i opened it up and find that it had been fairly molested. 3mm atkins apex seals. S4 rotor and an unbalanced rotating assembly. 2 dowel pins (one top, one bottom) with 1 stripped bolt. sharp edges on the ports and no porting or polishing on the intake runners. the coolant o-rings near the exhaust had turned to powder and a couple sensors had melted out. the TO4E turbo had lots of play and the rear oil ring was broken.
I jumped in head first and got started. replaced the S4 rotors with the S4 rotors that were in my old engine (way better shape) New apex seals from RX7 Specialties. I had to destroy a dowel pin to remove it. re reamed the holes and custom made 2 dowel pin that the tension bolt will fit though. polished the rotor housings. plates were in decent shape, clean up the ports and rebuilt the turbo with spare bearing from my stock turbo, and a new fatter oil ring.


I replaced the face on my 9lbs racing beat flywheel and bought a 6puck sprung ACT clutch with an Exeddy 40% over stock pressure plate.

Syritis

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Enter the New 7. An 88 LHD GX with only 1 spot of body damage, straight frame and no rust. $400 with everything except motor and tranny. except i had to transport from edmonton to calgary, rented a trailer and my GF's dad's truck and off we went. turned out to be a great road trip with THEE single greatest souvenir ever.

The hardest part of the whole swap would be building the motor mount from scratch.

it's a 1x3x1/8 rectangle tube with 1x1/2 hollow bar. The hollow bar was drilled into the rectangle tube so that the bolts wouldn't flatten it. cut some angles, weld, cut again, and more welding. I thought of going solid motor mounts but apparently the hockey puck mounts have become almost infamous with me. they do the job but i think they're due to be replaced after only 1 summers worth of use. I the appearance leaves a little to be desired but i think it turned out well for only using a drill press, 4 1/2 angle grinder and a 110volt welder.


I pulled out more then half of the unnecessary wire in the main body harness with a now regret doing so. I currently have a semi continuous beeping that is coming from the CPU. I've bypassed any of the sensors that aren't on the car still but nothing stops the beeping but everything else works perfectly. I bolted up the Haltech and pulled the wires into the engine bay. The S6 CAS wiring turned out to be quite a search to find the wiring diagram and taking no chances i found some grounding sheathing and wrapped the CAS wires.

Syritis

iTrader: (2)

some 8k/6k 32adjustable coils from BC racing, I'm really quite happy with these and they perform like i could ever imagine. and some AWR adjustable rear camber links. I also have some Racing beat sway bars in the car, I really need to upgrade the end links though, some ball in socket links would be nice.


Now add a 6pt roll cage, again built with a drill press, 4 1/2 angle grinder and a 110volt welder, this was probably easiest fabrication i've ever done. I took a big paper cut out of the interior of the car, and a 1 3/4x 1/8 dom tube to a hot rod shop and they were quite happy to bend the main loop into shape for me. I'd recommend them again for the job. now trying to hold the pipe in a vice on the drill press took some creativity but with a soft hand on the feed, a cheap bi-metal hole saw was able to notch all the tube for good fitment.


Now back to the Engine. As i slowly started adding the expensive parts like the SS -10 oil lines and the SS-6 fuel lines and marren FPD. I started drooling over my own work. throw on the LS1 coils the some taylor magnacoil custom spark plug wires and areomotive FPR. although these SS hoses **** me off. it's impossible to pound on the end fittings and keep a grip without turning your hands all red from your own blood. but they're all on there and holding pressure. :thumbup:

Syritis

iTrader: (2)

UPGRADE! My solo1 rival from last year who i still can't thank enough gave me all the turbos from past years that have failed him for one reason or another. I had to weld the V-band flanges back onto 2 hot side snails (one .84 another 1.0) a center housing from 1 turbo and the compressor from one of the rewelded turbos. And thus i ended up with my frankenstein TO4S 70mm compressor, oil cooled floating bearing with choice of .84 or 1.0 p-trim hot sides.
on the right is my TO4E that i used for the first half of the season. the new turbo is magnificent, the boost starts MUCH sooner and smoother, and still reaches full boost at a lower RPM then the TO4E. the power difference it noticeable but i will have to readjust my 40mm wastegate spring as the TO4S builds 2-3 pounds more boost.
Hopefully come next summer i can source a TO4R compressor wheel and build my old TO4E into a water cooled TO4R 1.0 just because i already have the compressor housing waiting to be used.


I then traveled back to edmonton for a look at some rota slipstream rims, unfortunately they weren't the size i was looking for, so instead i bought a MASSIVE afco mustang radiator (24x20x2 core). I didn't had a chance to use my new turbo on the track so i'm not sure if the more efficient turbo will require a larger intercooler. (the old TO4E definitely did) the core size is 18x9x2.5, for now it works but i'll keep my eyes open. I fab'd the intake pipes from mild steel for now and they work great but perhaps aluminum might be in the future if i can find an aluminum flange for the HKS adjustable competition BOV. if anyone has any insight to stop the BOV from whistling at 1-2psi boost? if i make the spring any tighter then i way too violent for my preference. While installing the larger rad, I took the opportunity to move the oil cooler from the stock location and front mount it into the bumper rebar. to prevent any hot air from pre-heating the air into the rad/IC, i created a larger duct for the rad/IC, entirely aluminum it is very light and only allows air into the duct from in front of the bumper. true clean cold air. while the air from oil cooler can go around the duct into the engine bay or up over the IC out the hood.

Syritis

iTrader: (2)

some pics from the solo one season.




I slowly worked on some flush mount headlight to replace the heavy flip up lights. just a little bit of fiberglass and a huge fight to get them out of the molds. they turned out ok but i was so impatient to get them on the car i didn't take all the time to body filler the holes and sand. so i sanded once and spray bombed them and installed, i'm very happy with them but i need to find some lenses that aren't yellow.

Barnett87GXL

iTrader: (2)

very nice

IAN

iTrader: (3)

Awesome project. Subscribed!

I have two of my own.

My old exisiting 400++rwhp 10th AE is getting a complete face lift and a redesigned methanol/h20 injection and some other fancy stuff and just general recleaned....

My friends 1989 prepped with a ton of goodies like new engine complete exhaust and racing beat everything will be reassembled and will see how much a stock chipped ecu and stock turbo can push at around 10 to 12psi..... (I bought it for such a good price he practically gave it to me. Looking forward to driving it!! Miss the old stock turbo feel)

84stock

iTrader: (5)

epic, bet you have keystoke cramps now....

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

I love it, love the mods and how you have all the coolers set-up Just not a fan of the lights even tho they are function over form and probably saved a ton of weight in the front of the car

Im going to be building a similar v-mount setup just gotta find a cheap Aluminum rad to hack up

Syritis

iTrader: (2)

if the flip up lights didn't have such a heavy complex hinge system i would have kept them fore sure, i love flip up lights. but i needed the room for the air filter too.

I didn't have to do anything to my mustang rad, i figured it would just be easier to be creative with the mounting/duct. really though the rad is great, I can race for 15 min and my temps don't move at all.

Syritis

iTrader: (2)

anything more then 10psi on the stock turbo your just moving hot air. the most i was able to get from my stock turbo was under 300hp, when i got the hybrid turbo, stock hot side with 60mm compressor i'm sure i had just over but not by much. I found a website that claimed 315hp from the same hybrid turbo and was told that that was a pretty astounding number.

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

Awesome build!!! Why so long to post it?

Ian since when is 410 410whp++????

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

Very nice build, how did the engine mounting system work out ? any movement of block at high load ?

edv

Very Nice! 2 thumbs up!

Syritis

iTrader: (2)

actually the motor is free to move a fair bit, less then with stock mounts. mine is set up with a hockey puck on either side of the sud frame and a 1/2inch grade 8 bolt all the way through and a couple washers on the bottom so i have no fear of the motor pulling the mount apart. the nice part is that if i want less play from the motor i can just tighten down the 1/2 bolts more.

I'm hoping to make 410-440hp range, but i need to add more fuel, right now the walburo is maxing out at 7200rpm and i'm looking to redline at 8000rpm. i'm thinking along the lines of 2 stock pumps on the rx7store duel pump hanger.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Add a second fuel cell and with C12 to feed a third set of injectors under full boost.

Syritis

iTrader: (2)

i was thinking of that, running the primary injectors on pump 94 octane and run the secondaries on C12. but the cost of re plumbing the entire fuel system again wouldn't be worth it. so far i've been racing on 94 octane so i should be good.
sounds like a project for later. once i learn how to fab a custom fuel cell.

Smitter

hey nice work Andrew, i especially like the placement of the air intake. Think i have seen it somewhere before........