1990 Mazda RX7 N/A auto

first problem:

Can't get to idle at 750 RPM. Changed plugs, fixed a vacuum leak, Changed plugs, wires, cleaned TB, changed air filer, Adjusted TPS (2 led method) and tryed adjusting the screw on top of TB to adjust idle.
Just idles about 500 RPM would like to idle at 750RPM for the etest.
Also have taken off BAC and bench tested seems to work fine and it's clean.

it also dosen't fast idle when you start cold, but RPM goes up when you turn on A/C or put it in gear (its a auto).

Second Problem:

Any tips on changing water pump?.. I seen coolant leaking down the lower rad hose when hot. So i replaced the lower rad hose and replaced the spring clamps with gear clamps. Still leaking .. Might be a gasket or somthing i'm not sure. Can't really see where it's coming from.

Thanks in adavanced,
Nick S

 

You wanna hand puttin that pump in?.lmk Bro..

 

i'm hoping it's just a gasket.. unsure how they are setup somone telling me to put silicone on all the bolts then another one is telling me the first guy is and idiot lol..

since the engine been apart not long ago I imagine it's somthing installed wrong.

if your available that would be awsome. ill order the gaskets try that first. ill steal pressure tester from work to test after.

 

I think I saw your car in Perth a couple of weeks ago just outside the Canadian Tire!

When you order the gasket, order the housing gasket too, and replace both.
I'll bet that the water pump housing was installed without the spacers. When you get the gasket set, it will come with two small gasket donuts. (looks like loose-leaf paper hole reinforcements to us "older" guys lol). 90% of people throw these away and they are a huge part of making the pump housing not leak. They go over the studs so that when you torque the pump housing down it sits flat against the block.

I like to use this stuff on water pumps/housing:

 

Man small world lol.. Probably there failing another etest lol.

Thanks for the advice I will take it and try to track down a thing of that form a gasket. Got service mazda manual today that should help me along too. Small *** book think they could of made the font bigger though, everything about that car is small lol.

 

Well fixed my coolant leak!! turned out 2 bolts on bottom of the water pump where broke off.. took the pump off, managed to weld nut on the bolts and get them out of the housing.. shims where in there.. replaced all gaskets retested all is good!!..

one problem down..

still dosen't start worth a **** cold. Runs great once warmed up. have too keep my foot on the gas for about 3 or 4 mins till the temp gauge starts to move befor it will idle on it's own.

Adjusted TPS 2 led method, dosent surge anymore. Tested BAC valve and hooked a scope to it make sure it was beging controled peroperly. Going to attempt to adjust timing. Need to borrow timming light off the old guy at work lol.

maybe I should get feeler gauges and make sure the space of the butterfly valve is right.. i know the old owner was messing around with all the adjustment screws trying to get it running right w/o knowing what he's doing.

I know it's not a big deal to run a little rough cold with a rotory engine I just like it running perfect.

 

Just in case anyone els was having the same problem with cold start idle problems It ended up being the connector at the water themosensor. I replaced the water thermosensor and connector it now high idles cold.

 

I hate being the guy to revive old threads, but my