Does anyone know of experienced tuners in the Niagara area that can tune a Power FC to pass Ontario emissions?
I have heard of a few in the Toronto area but I can't get a plate sticker until I pass e-test and T.O is a bit far to trailer a vehicle.

 

I have CAA Plus, so I beleive I can get a free tow for up to 100 Km.
So I don't know the cost of a tow. And I don't know the cost of a ticket for driving around without a valid stick. But I figure you only have a 50-50 chance of getting caught. So you might be able to get away with it.

 

I'm pretty sure he said "trailler" a vehicle , so no driving ... u might want to hire on Marco (thewird) if he's up to the task

 

I've done it before with an emissions analyzer with Daryl from Rotary Dynamics. But he doesn't seem to be want to tow it this far.

What type of setup is on the car? Does it have all the emission equipment still on it? Is it ported?

thewird

 

My car was the test mule that Marco worked on. My car passed the E test so if you can get it here I am sure they can help.

 

Where in T.O is Marco's shop? The car has some minor mods, blitz FMIC is the only piece still in there. For the e-test I removed the 3" exhaust, put in a Cat and installed an air pump. It had a Panspeed ECM but I swapped that out for an OEM. The last test showed: HC PPM- 502, CO%- 5.85, curb idle numbers are even higher. (with the OEM ECM)
So I bought a PowerFC to tune it. The power fc shows original sized injectors and I doubt it was ported but then I would not be able to tell. It's a JDM and I am the first Canadian owner.

 

Rotary dynamics is in Mississauga. They have the exhaust sniffer. Marco lives near by, and he tunes power fc's. JDM cars seem a little dirtier compared to north american cars because of the missing emission component. Mine is JDM too with a ported engine. I have an aftermarket exhaust. It might have been an easier pass had I still had the original setup.

 

If its not ported, it will be easier to pass. The real trick is having the cat stupid hot right before the test. Try to ask the tester you know to rev the car to 6k for 30 seconds right before he starts the test and make sure the car is FULLY warmed up before you even put it on the tester. If that doesn't work, then your tune is too far off to pass.

thewird

 

You should be able to do it yourself if you have a datalogit or even commander.


Once you've found a proper shop to do the test, you'll notice that they do it at 40kmh as measured by their dyno (in 2nd gear), and if the FD gearing is anything like the FC gearing, and your wheels aren't grossly different than mine, your engine will be at 2900rpms. So this is what you do:

Find a nice long straightaway, somewhere quiet with few other cars/obstacles/small children/deer around. Get rolling in 2nd gear at 2900 revs (not 40kmh). Use a Map trace on your commander to figure out the datapoint that the car is running at. Go into that cell and keep taking fuel out bit by bit by bit untill your car starts to stumble (missfire). Now add 0.004 back onto this point just so you're a bit away from a complete stumble. Also subtract about half of what you took off of this point from the surrounding points (1 RPM level higher, 1 RPM level lower, 1 pressure point higher, 1 pressure point lower).

For example, say you took .4 off of P5 N6. You will want to take off 0.2 from (P5,N5), (P5,N7), (P4,N6),(P6,N6). This is a bit of a safety margin for the test, so that if the operator drops below, or above, the 2900rpm mark, it doesnt dump a bunch of fuel in, throwing your test off.

NOW, write these numbers down. You will NOT be driving the car to the shop like this. Technically, you should never be able to hit this point under load, but I still would not recommend driving around with these settings.

You can do the same thing for your idle. It is a little tougher, however, as a rotary doesn't idle well at 14 AFR, and you will run into surging. HOWEVER, if your car has retained its emissions equipment (in particular, the air pump), I can forsee this procedure helping you pass the test. Restore the factory PowerFC settings (should be 1.000 all round). Drive to the test facility. Do not warm your car up any more than it was when you were setting the data points. Re-input the data points. Pass your test. Done.

If you STILL can't pass, I have other tricks up my sleeve, you can pm me.


disclaimer: I am not promoting the deception of the MOE's emissions standards requirements. The environment is my friend. I posted this trusting that anyone who follows this proceedure will, of course, tune their whole RPM band for pollutant-free, low-power, non-performance driving. 14.7 AFR's all around!

 

Thanks flipstar, this is kind of what I have been playing around with. I have just been worried about running it too lean. I'll post the numbers if and when I pass. It may have to wait till December though as I leave for work this weekend.
Thanks for the advice.

 

If you want you can bring the car to my place, i'll have a look at your car and the pfc #s

mine just pass last week. PM me.

do you have a wideband installed?

 

In my experience with Joe's car running silly (stumbling) lean didn't make the emissions better. You want it 15-16 afr but there is no reason to make it stumble. Daryl and I tried multiple times making the car run like **** both with fuel and timing and there was no added benefits for doing so. Also, there is no harm in it running 15-16 AFR in medium to high vacuum. That's actually how I tune most cars for fuel efficiency.

thewird

 

post you mods in order for us to help you.....again without a wideband and changing #s using the commander will not make it easy.

 

The car is running stock twins with stock blow off's. The intake is after market (usual twin filters crammed under the hood. The intercooler is a Blitz front mount. It is a JDM, the air pump is in place and plumbed into a new cat. The power FC is showing 550 and 850 injectors. This is the only RX7 I have driven so I can't tell if it has more grunt than usual. I really can't see anything else in there. Since I purchased the car I have removed the 3" mid pipe to install a cat, I removed the pan speed ECM to install the Power FC. I plan to pic up a wideband and will probably get a Datalogit.

 

I agree with thewird. When we worked on Double_J's car, we got pretty deep into it more for the experimental value than anything. In the end, the biggest variable with the most direct effect was the exhaust temperature. Getting the (smaller) high flow, aftermarket cat nice and toasty was key. We were able to see the effects of overheating the exhaust, which very quickly resulted in high NO values - as expected. Hats off to OEM cats on these cars, they're big and clumsy looking but very effective.

I would recommend starting with a wideband just to see if you're in the ballpark. Base maps are a tad rich, but not overly. You may luck out and be able to get your exhaust hot enough just prior to the test to give the exhaust probe just what it needs to help you pass. Without an EGR valve and only one cat, you have a tiny bit of a battle ahead of you but passing is still quite possible.

 

Eugene should rent out his stock exhaust for a fee. Too bad he's to stupid to think of it =)

 

Hmm, I wonder If I can make my car pass with 2 OEM cats for the purpose of emmission testing only. Of course with a proper air pump to both. Would be interesting to try one day.

thewird

 

I've heard of guys running a Corvette electric air pump to the Cats to Pass.
you could always hook it it to an RPM switch.