ASM 2525 (40km/h/25mph roll)
.................LIMIT.............READING.......R ESULT
HC PPM.......64..................535..............FAI L
CO %........0.35...................4.47............FA IL
NO PPM......485...................21...............PA SS
DILUTION...........................15.8........... ..VALID
(test conducted in 3rd gear @~1600-1700RPM, I think it should've been done in 2nd?)


Curb Idle:
LIMIT READING RESULT
HC PPM.......200..................175................ .PASS
CO %.........1.00..................2.26.............. ...FAIL
DILUTION............................15.3.......... ......VALID


'93 touring, mostly stock... BRAND NEW 3" cat. airpump plumbed in after cat to help dilute the exhaust.

how can I pass?

I wanna drive my damn car.

 

Is plumbing the air pump into the car after the car a standard practice in FD's? Would it be worth trying it into or before the cat?

 

I'd spend the $40 for a universal O2 and then take it from there.

 

nick, I dunno.

hevnsnt: local parts place wants $120 for a universal o2 sensor. Does o2 sensor affect idle CO?

 

yes it does and it looks like the car was cold when tested you are way rich at 40 k and the air pump should be plumbed into the coverter

 

I got mine from part source.

 

That must be a typo? the air source needs to be just before the cat or most aftermarket cat's(3-way) that I've seen have an air port in the middle of the cat (between the ceramic bricks).

 

do you have any way to adjust the fuel amount you are injecting? it sounds like you could just lean out the mixture since you are running rich (your HC is high but your NO is low). i guess a properly working O2 sensor might help, so check that.
there's a few treads in the forums (2nd gen and 3rd gen) that discuss passing e-tests. they include things like using a certain amount of alcohol in the fuel.
either that or you could just settle for a "conditional" pass and pay whatever it is for that.

 

Since you seem to be rich (high HC and CO), Nick86 might be right about plumbing the air pump upstream of the cat, to give it the necessary O2 to complete the burn in the cat. Pulling in second might make a difference also; while 1700 rpm isn't ridiculously low, the throttle opening is going to be larger to hold 40kph in 3rd than in 2nd, and low intake velocity from a relatively large throttle opening and low engine speed might contribute to poor fuel mixing and an incomplete burn. Working O2 sensor is absolutely a must - it tells the ECU to lean or richen the fuel mix based on it's reading of O2 in in the exhaust stream.

 

your o2 will affect co re route the air pump pipe and change o2 sensor and you might want to check your cat make sure it is still working cuz with numbers like that you could have killed it pretty quick and it will not be as efficient. any etest facility can do a cat efficiency test for you, you might have to pay half an hour but it is worth it. yes the car should have been tested in second gear unless the right speed was not attainable or sustainable in second and then the next gear is allowed to be used. when is the last time a tune up was done?

 

Terrh: I had similar problems trying to pass my 10th Ann like 2 years ago. This is what i did... replace the O2 sensor, change oil (sounds stupid but it works), and load up with premium gas. Drive the car hard and get it all heated up then (buy this before hand) Canadian Tire has this stuff called "Guaranteed To Pass" its specifically for emissions. i added it when i had about 1/4 tank left. Drive the **** outta it till 1/8ish keep the car HOT and go for the test (make sure you keep the car hot) and then BLAMO! i passed easilly. Thats with all the stock 18 year old **** (cept for the o2 sensor)

from what i seen with my friends 240 that guaranteed to pass stuff and keeping it hot helped big time (thats all he did and he passed).

it worked for me. give it a shot...

 

all that **** does is make the combustion temp elevated it will lower hc and co but will drive no up but so will premium fuel i am a certified emission inspector but you don't need to take my advice

it may work for you because your no is very low but that crap is a waste of money and not needed at all if your car is running properly

JEFF

 

Listen to Jeff. He knows of what he speaks. I have had all my cars passed at his station as he takes the time to make sure that the tests are performed according to the rules. It really does help to follow the procedures.

Eric

 

yeah, I think the car was too cold.


the cat isn't a 3 way cat, I just plumbed the airpump in to help dilute it.

 

My question is why do you want to pass? If you don't know where I'm going with this, you need to read some of the older e-test threads.

Unless you're trying to sell the car you don't need a real pass, you just need a conditional pass. That means you need to do as many repairs up to $450 that could improve the emissions of the car. So you have done the first e-test (fail) -$30. You do a diagnostic which is $100 or something. Then you take another e-test to see the "improvements." So you're at something like $160. Why didn't you make any improvements? Because the diagnostic will say you need a new O2 sensor and/or cat. Stock bits from mazda will be over the ~$300 worth of repair cost room available. No repairs can be made to comply with the cost rules. Now you can carry on your marry way. It's really quiet a stupid system.

A O2 sensor should improve the idle emissions. Even a S4 with an old L-Jetronic ECU theoretically uses closed loop at idle.

What do you mean that your cat isn't 3-way. Is it a main cat or a pre-cat. If it's a main cat then it's a 3-way.

 

Thanks Eric.

And Snrub, I see where you are coming from and it is true that he could get by with a conditional pass but going about it the way you described is more of a way of abusing the system. I think that maybe Terrh actually cares about how his car is running and getting some kind of fuel economy instead of driving around in open loop all day. From the looks of it that car could pass legitimately for pretty cheap as long as he is willing to turn the wrenches himself.

Why not try an O2 and re routing the air pump hose and going back to the same facility that did the initial test. It will only cost you $17.50 plus tax. That is what i would recommend to my customers if they were in the same boat as you

Jeff

 

The air pump should be hooked up before or at the cat. The extra oxygen helps burn the extra fuel when it hits the cat so if you are pumping air in after the cat you are not allowing the airpump to do what it is intended to do.

 

Just Some Info from a Guy That does ETesting(a friend NOT me!)..he said that If you don't pass the Etest,what they do(CDN Tire),is get you to put the car on Thier Diagnostic Machine.They DRILL holes in your exhaust checking Points along the exhaust for "readings".Like before the Cat,At the Cat,and After the Catalytic.They then Weld the holes back up!!!..When I heard that,I said NO freakin way!.I am not letting any Monkey with a Wrench to Drill holes into My NEW exhaust So they Can "probe it"!!....TERRH,run the air Pump Direct to the Cat.Use a small piece of heater hose and 'TEE" it at the Air pump outlet.Run That hose to the Split air tube.Did you try Methyl hydrate?..

 

Bought new O2 sensor. Cleaned plugs (they looked fine though). Changed wires.

side note: OMFG, T1 wire is SUCH a ******* pain in the ***. It's easy on the FC's, why'd they go and screw it up? I'm never changing that goddamn wire ever again. EVER. Bring your FD to my house with $500, and I STILL won't change that wire.

Went there with the needle on E, driving 120-130km/h in 3rd gear. When I arrived the gas light was on and I put in about 3 liters of methyl hydrate. I also had him run the roll test in 2nd instead of 3rd.

car passed with FLYING colors.

readings:

ASM 2525:
HCPPM LIMIT 64 READING 13
CO% LIMIT 0.35 READING 0.00
NO PPM LIMIT 485 READING 119 PASS
RPM 2742

Curb Idle:

HC PPM limit 200 READING 19 PASS
CO % LIMIT 1.00 READING 0.05 PASS
RPM 850

 

did you re-route the air pump hose

 

no

 

golf Clap Daniel!..now you have a combo Fd and Camp fuel Burner!..congrats on Passing your Etest..