Alright, so after 100 or more hours of working on the FC this winter, getting a new turbo/manifold setup, A/W intercooler, rollcage, etc., I take the car out this spring for the first time. The springs I got from TiAl (big and small red) are supposed to be 15psi. Well, either my hardline was leaking and/or the springs were off, because the car boosted to over 30psi, w/ no AI on 91 octane, and cracked the rear plate. So I thought...

Pic of carnage:


So last night I get 16 hours straight, motor in and out, swapped in my brand new rear iron after porting it to match. All new fluids, switched to Evans coolant, Redline Shockproof oils, etc. etc. Everything is back together, go to fire it up and notice an oil leak at the turbo oil feed:



The stupid **** that I am didn't even bother checking it while the motor was on the floor, and I was trying to save time by leaving the turbo + manifold and lines on the block while I swapped out the rear plates.

So from this I've come up with 2 things:

-ALS seals really are un-*******-breakable

-FML, and **** my car, I really don't know what I'm going to do...


P.S. I should mention, over the 4+ years I've owned this car, I've driven maybe 1000 km's, including the drive back from Kitchener when it was at R.P.M. getting this motor built 2 years ago.

 

Looks like the thing fell off the back of a truck...the rear plate had the same kind of cracks?

 

Sorry to hear that man, if you are going to fix it, I have 2 S5 front Plates, $50 plus shipping for one, I can get pics later.

 

JDK, first picture shows the damage to rear dowel land after pulling the engine. Second picture shows the crack in the front dowel land through the oil feed threads that I discovered after replacing rear iron and re-installing engine. All damage was from over-boosting.

Nismo, PM'ing you
-Taylor

 

oh man, Taylor, NO!! So sorry to hear about that

As soon as my work contract is done, I'll drive up and see you!

 

30psi on 91 octane will do it, I would be opening up the whole engine, detonation causing damage like this will more then likely render one or both rotors unusable as well.

 

The 30 psi was brief and at a reasonably low rpm. Engine still had perfect compression, and rear rotor was fine. At this point the engine's going to need a full rebuild anyways, probably just re-use the hard seals. I'm just out of time, patience and resources. I'm not sure what I'm going to do now.

 

Never give up ? , just tell the kids university and college is overated , and you spent their funds on self councelling with the car .

That aside. As stated above, I would start with a whole other core. Get a jdm short block, open it up, inspect,port, new soft seals and put together for insurence.

OVerboosted motors tend to get weird and never ever tend to work right afterwards. ( search the various threads ).

Either way best of luck.

 

For future reference you should make sure you have fuel cut enabled at X boost in whatever ECU your using to avoid problems like this. Same thing happened to me, I overboosted about 20+ psi on a new motor when I first put my first single in but my fuel cut came in. I had the lines connected wrong. If the rear iron cracked though, I'd be surprised if the engine internals are ok. Compression doesn't always tell the full story.

Sorry to hear about what happened though.

thewird

 

Wow man, that really sucks!! Glad to see the ALS seals are as awesome! Thats the only apex seal I will use in engines. maybe OEM once in a while....but ALS all the way!

I'm sending you a pm later tonight.

 

I'm running a Microtech LT8 with an internal 2.5 bar map sensor. The computer had no idea what was going on, but the turbo kept pulling apparently. I'm taking this time to get my Haltech PS1000 sorted and doing it up right.

Thanks Joe, PM'in you back.

 

We can rebuild it. We can make it stronger, faster, and better then it was before.

SHHANANANANANANANNNAA

Nice carnage though. Keep your chin up!

 

If the internal sensor is faulty, (you had a fuel cut set at a given psi/bar and it didnt work ? ) , I would also definitely go by fixing/swapping the ecu before driving again.

 

Hey Taylor I've got a complete S5 na running engine,if it helps you its yours.Let me know man.Thanx Chad

 

Update: Another pic of the front iron, lol : and one comparing the dowel area on the new plates (F&R):

Plans are to have the block machined for a couple extra dowels, upgrade the oiling system, balance rotating assembly, go with some different porting, 75mm turbo, install a fuel cell full of a secondary fuel, and other interesting things. Being that they are building a local strip here, car will be primarily for drag racing. I will update in the spring!

 

Looks a lot beefier is that the S5 rear iron that you'll be using now?

 

Way to get back on the horse. You canucks are a hardy bunch

 

Yeah, well I need a winter project, otherwise I'll end up growing my beard and ice-fishing the whole time. I'll end up looking like Osama.

I've already got everything I need for the car, except time and space. That I'll be working on.

CS, the plates are actually new runs of S4, they are somewhat rare unless you buy them new, but I have one front and two rear plates, I'll be selling my rear beefy iron already streetported later on this week hopefully.

I'm actually having a hard time deciding on my side-porting, I am already going semi-pp, but I can't decide whether to leave the primaries stock, and half-bridge the secondaries as well as having the semi-pp's, or just leave them stock.

 

Oh, and I finally came up for a name for my car, it's going to be called:

"No Secrets" hehe


P.S. JDK you were right, the rotor apex slots were all out of spec, .003-.004", and one apex seal slot was completely pinched.

 

So, what are you doing with your current turbo? I can pm my address and you can send her to me

 

Shes loooong gone, i have the attention span of a fruit fly when it comes to my car.

 

Dude way to get back on the horse I was in your position this year as well brand new motor cracked the dowel pin area on the front plate in the spring on the dyno had under 1000km on her

Took the summer and built again..... got some issues to sort out... she dirves now though.

Winter project