Emission Test tips
04-23-10, 09:12 AM
#1
Emission Test tips
I know quite a few of the RX-7 are doing e-test recently, here are some tips that you all may know already:
1. Test your vehicle on a nice day only--avoid very cold or windy days. Cold weather requires that the engine be run longer for the coolant, oil, and catalytic converter to reach and maintain optimum operating temperature.
2. Make sure your battery is in good condition. A weak or low-voltage battery causes many fuel-injected engines to run rich (use too much fuel).
3. Change engine oil before having the vehicle tested. Dirty or contaminated oil increases exhaust emissions.
4. Use premium gasoline to help reduce nitrogen oxide (Nox) emissions.
5. Do not overfill the gas tank. After the nozzle clicks off, add no more than a dime’s worth of fuel. If the tank is overfilled, liquid gasoline can be drawn into the engine through the canister purge system.
6. Drive at least 20 miles before having the vehicle tested.
7. Arrive at the test center with only a quarter- to a half-tank of gasoline.
8. While waiting for the inspection, place the gear selector in “park” or “neutral,” and keep the engine running at fast idle (about 2500 rpm).
9. Before testing begins, turn the air conditioning/heating or defroster to the off position.
Other Tips from the Experts
1. Be sure your tires are in good condition and inflated to the maximum pressure stated on the side of the tires.
2. Know whether your car is front- or rear-wheel drive, and watch to see that the test workers put the driving wheels on the rollers.
3. Ask to see that the dynamometer settings are correct for your make, model, and year of vehicle.
4. Watch to see that the parking brake is not engaged.
1. Test your vehicle on a nice day only--avoid very cold or windy days. Cold weather requires that the engine be run longer for the coolant, oil, and catalytic converter to reach and maintain optimum operating temperature.
2. Make sure your battery is in good condition. A weak or low-voltage battery causes many fuel-injected engines to run rich (use too much fuel).
3. Change engine oil before having the vehicle tested. Dirty or contaminated oil increases exhaust emissions.
4. Use premium gasoline to help reduce nitrogen oxide (Nox) emissions.
5. Do not overfill the gas tank. After the nozzle clicks off, add no more than a dime’s worth of fuel. If the tank is overfilled, liquid gasoline can be drawn into the engine through the canister purge system.
6. Drive at least 20 miles before having the vehicle tested.
7. Arrive at the test center with only a quarter- to a half-tank of gasoline.
8. While waiting for the inspection, place the gear selector in “park” or “neutral,” and keep the engine running at fast idle (about 2500 rpm).
9. Before testing begins, turn the air conditioning/heating or defroster to the off position.
Other Tips from the Experts
1. Be sure your tires are in good condition and inflated to the maximum pressure stated on the side of the tires.
2. Know whether your car is front- or rear-wheel drive, and watch to see that the test workers put the driving wheels on the rollers.
3. Ask to see that the dynamometer settings are correct for your make, model, and year of vehicle.
4. Watch to see that the parking brake is not engaged.
04-24-10, 04:38 PM
#2
It doesn't matter what day you bring the vehicle on its supposed to be warmed to proper operating temperature anyway. I don't understand how a the battery could affect A/F Ratios..the o2 sensors run on mV and so does the ECU. Its feasible....ill look it up.
Contaminated engine oil affects numbers due to the PCV system but really its not a huge amount, I've tested vehicles before and after oil changes and its usually not much of a difference but it is definitely a good idea.
Premium gasoline serves no advantage other than its ability to resist pre-ignition and detonation. But when it comes to say Pioneer or some ghetto station vs Sunoco or Shell I would choose Sunoco or Shell.
Not only does over flowing the fuel system do exactly that it also damages the EVAP components that are only meant to handle gasoline fumes.
Driving the vehicle a distance makes no difference, like I said it has to be warmed up to proper operating temperature anyway, testing a cold vehicle is a handicap and its against regulations.
Having a quarter tank vs a full or 3/4 full doesn't really make a difference it does if its too low or overfilled. If a vehicle comes in and is almost out of gas they can be refused a test and told to go put some gas in.
While at the inspection station it will only make a difference if you leave your vehicle running if its going to get done right away or not...like I said it has to be at normal operating temperature.
You don't have to turn off any electrical loads as the tester has to verify all accessories are off but feel free it makes the job easier.
Tires actually play a big part, they must be inflated to the PSI indicated on the Tire placard on the drivers side door. NOT the PSI on the tire which almost always says 41 or 44 psi...thats overinflation and its just prematurely wearing the centre of the tread down.
Its good to know what your vehicles drivetrain configuration is, but like I said its the testers responsibility..but always be aware. I've seen people run AWD cars on the dyno...luckily it only cooked a hangar bearing and not the entire tranny.
If its a FWD car its a good idea to engage the parking brake if its a 5 speed, I wouldn't touch the parking brake in an automatic because usually people don't use it. I would recommend also using it during a two speed idle test if its an automatic but it doesn't really matter...obviously always engage the Parking brake on a 5 speed.
Contaminated engine oil affects numbers due to the PCV system but really its not a huge amount, I've tested vehicles before and after oil changes and its usually not much of a difference but it is definitely a good idea.
Premium gasoline serves no advantage other than its ability to resist pre-ignition and detonation. But when it comes to say Pioneer or some ghetto station vs Sunoco or Shell I would choose Sunoco or Shell.
Not only does over flowing the fuel system do exactly that it also damages the EVAP components that are only meant to handle gasoline fumes.
Driving the vehicle a distance makes no difference, like I said it has to be warmed up to proper operating temperature anyway, testing a cold vehicle is a handicap and its against regulations.
Having a quarter tank vs a full or 3/4 full doesn't really make a difference it does if its too low or overfilled. If a vehicle comes in and is almost out of gas they can be refused a test and told to go put some gas in.
While at the inspection station it will only make a difference if you leave your vehicle running if its going to get done right away or not...like I said it has to be at normal operating temperature.
You don't have to turn off any electrical loads as the tester has to verify all accessories are off but feel free it makes the job easier.
Tires actually play a big part, they must be inflated to the PSI indicated on the Tire placard on the drivers side door. NOT the PSI on the tire which almost always says 41 or 44 psi...thats overinflation and its just prematurely wearing the centre of the tread down.
Its good to know what your vehicles drivetrain configuration is, but like I said its the testers responsibility..but always be aware. I've seen people run AWD cars on the dyno...luckily it only cooked a hangar bearing and not the entire tranny.
If its a FWD car its a good idea to engage the parking brake if its a 5 speed, I wouldn't touch the parking brake in an automatic because usually people don't use it. I would recommend also using it during a two speed idle test if its an automatic but it doesn't really matter...obviously always engage the Parking brake on a 5 speed.
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05-03-10, 09:25 PM
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Then Alex Trebeck comes out and Says." you lost on Jeopardy,Baby..oohhh,ohh,ohhh,ohh!
Seriously you can try to fix it,but the Shop that gave you the Etest must perform the work to give you the $450 worth of the parts/labor required for the conditional pass.
you can't Etest at one shop then go to another and expect to pay Half the cost of the next Etest.It must be done at that same shop.
another thing is that IF you get a Conditional Pass on the car,when yo go to sell it,the ONUS is on the NEXT Owner to ETEST the car or else it is NO Good for the road.IT Must ETEST...you cannot buy a conditional pass car and then Try to Conditional Pass it under your name..they don't work it that way...it is pass it or it becomes a Lawn ornament.
Seriously you can try to fix it,but the Shop that gave you the Etest must perform the work to give you the $450 worth of the parts/labor required for the conditional pass.
you can't Etest at one shop then go to another and expect to pay Half the cost of the next Etest.It must be done at that same shop.
another thing is that IF you get a Conditional Pass on the car,when yo go to sell it,the ONUS is on the NEXT Owner to ETEST the car or else it is NO Good for the road.IT Must ETEST...you cannot buy a conditional pass car and then Try to Conditional Pass it under your name..they don't work it that way...it is pass it or it becomes a Lawn ornament.
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