Hi everybody,
I have a 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II that i just bought. the car wont start and i need help on knowing why.
I have a air/fuel guage in the car and it says its running 14/1...sometimes. The car was sitting for a couple of months from the previous owners. I got a new battery for it and it still is not working and the interior lights are very dim.
The car started twice, the first time it started it idled at 5000RPM for like a minute then i turned it off, then it could start until like half an hour later. this time it was at 1500RPM but i just shut of after like 10 seconds.
Does anybody have a clue on what part is wrong with my car?

Tyrone

 

You need to let the thing run when it starts...
It's on the choke when it starts, so 1500 rpm is nothing.
Let the car warm up.
You are shutting the car off cold and probably flooding it! Never shut a rotary off cold.

 

agreed 2nd'ed..it's normal ..let it warm up! I personally let mine warm up til the thermostat pops ..that way it will not stall at the first light I hit..just my idea of precautionary measure..you are in Whitby..not FLORIDA!..have a good morning from a fellow CANUCK!..8 degrees today here..Dave

 

Thanks for the advice you guys but, the car wont start at all again. i tried it today again it still not even starting at all though.

 

If it's flooding as is being suggested, you can unflood it by pulling the fuel pump relay under the hood. If you crank it for several second, the extra fuel will clear and the engine might even start up briefly. Once the fuel is cleared, put the relay back in and try starting her.

 

It is still cranking, right?
If it is, but won't start good, chance that you flooded it pretty good.

Time it pull the plugs and dry them, or swap in new plugs.

Then do the EGI fuse pull de-flooding trick...just search for it in 2nd Gen Tech.

 

you should provide us with more information about your car too.
mainly facts like:
-odometer reading
-whether or not the engine is original or a rebuild


regardless, your engine's flooded. although flooding can be caused by numerous factors, it is a problem that a lot of us(if not all of us) FC owners have experienced at one point or another.

the basic fix:

pull the EGI COMP and IGN (egi computer, ignition) fuses that are located in the engine bay close to the driver side shock tower. after you pull those two fuses out, crank the engine it for about 5-8 seconds(it won't start), then put the fuses back in and try restarting it like normal.

if it does start, at least let the car run until it reaches normal operating temp before shutting it off.


another thing i'd like to tell you:
if the "basic fix" i listed works, and then the flooding problem comes back with a vengence a few days later...i think you might have a bigger problem on your hands than you anticipated.
my FC sat for about 3.5 months in a garage last winter because after january, the owner of the storage facility wouldn't let me go and start my car anymore.
i took the car out in mid-april, it had developed this really bad flooding problem where i'd have hot start and cold start problems.
then two weeks later, my engine self-imploded on it's own.

 

ohh! i hope that wont happen to me!
well here is more info on the car so that i can pin point exactly what my car has and what not.
The car was parked for 6 months from the previous owner who just started 2 jobs at the time.
the engine was rebuilt 3 years ago, and it has 80,000km on the motor, car has 225,000 on the car.
The previous owner was complaining about engine flooding soo he got venom 450cc fuel injectors for the primary and left secondary stock. he said the car was flooding and to stop the flooding i have to by new O-Rings for the fuel injectors. so i did and (me with no experience to rotary's) i was hoping the car to start fine and idle at 750rpm.
the car has an K&N air filter wich i think i cleaned properly but i never cleaned an air filter before, i just used to replace them.
A/C doesnt work. The previous owner said that it never did
most of the electronics seem to be cranking out. The power windows take for ever to reach the bottom and the top, i have to "nudge" the sunroof for it to move back, the headlights wont move AT ALL, and all of the interior lights seem to be dim (i know the car is old and all but it is really low).

Thanks

 

add note ..if all the above still won't get you goin .. suggest push starting it....constant floodin may be leaky fuel injectors ..sending them out to be cleaned helps ..I'm sure you will get more suggestions from the guys here..touch wood ..i haven't encountered my fc not starting ..ironically it's the e-test the car is stuck at! good luck

 

i actully have not been able to turn over the battery becuase my battery is dead and i have a new one from Canadian tire but i cant get my racht to loosen the battery tie down clip thingy. probly has to wait till sunday when i see my bro again. he has some tools.

 

i just installed the battery today and i pulled out all the switchs that looked like spark plug wires (4 in total) and i turned the car for a while.
i dont know if this was soposed to happen but the car started a few times during this time. (but quickly shutted off)
after all this i plugged in all the switches and it started like butter! (whoever said that the car will smoke like a mother was right!). after like 2 mins of idleing the car at 4000RPM, the car engine started to smoke from the intake manifold (i think) it could of been comming from under im not really sure. at this time i reallized that the Auto Meter boost guage and the factory boost one was not reading more than 0-PSI of boost. So i reved the car at a higher rpm and i heard the BOV but nothing. it was going to the negatives when i let go of the throttle (i know thats soposed to happen) but it wont go more than 0 PSI.

But again thanks for the help every one!

 

that would be me..misterstyx69 ..i smoke like a mother too..lol

 

you prob won't register any boost until your car is put under load.... aka driving you car..

 

Yeah unless you have a huge turbo, and tonnes of mods you won't make much if any boost not underload.

 

your cold-start system may not be in proper working condition if it is reving to 5k...

everytime you start it, start with it shifted into gear, and your foot on the clutch.
that way you will bypass the accelerated warm-up (3.5k+ rpm), and it will just start warming up at 1.5k-2k rpm instead. once you do manage to start it up, let it go and warm up.

 

are you soposed to hold down on the throttle becuase thats the only way i can keep my car running?

 

uhh, i'm going to say, NO.

something else is up if you have to do that...start troubleshooting.