Here's another update as of Saturday, October 8th, '05:

The only RX7s on hand are the afore-mentioned white '87 and a recent-arrival '81 base model, ie: no sunroof, power optins or LSD.

The FC is pretty much stripped except for the front and rear suspension and differential.

The '81 is amost complete except for the distributor, passengers' seat, dash, oil cooler (which I scored ) and the 3-core short rad, which I also scored.

I pulled the spark plugs and aside from being worn almost completely out they looked ok--- no evidence of fouling or coolant leaking into the combustion chambers, so this may be a very rebuildable (or even still-running) engine. Oil was pretty low though. Pick 'n Pull sells these engine cores for around $100.

 

What trim was the FC? Im looking for an LSD rear end.

 

The white one is a GX....aka, no LSD AFAIK.

 

Yup, it's a GX.

 

either have decent windshield or rear window?

 

I believe both windshields and the rear hatch on the 2nd gen were ok but didn't really examine them. The rear hatch on the first gen is in good shape. Even the hatch shocks were still holding the hatch up albiet, on a warm and sunny afternoon. No telling how well they work in the cold.

 

lol thatss ok.. i want em for the defrost.. not the shocks..

 

Actually, rather than buying a whole new hatch you should be able to repair the existing defrost circuitry in the hatch with a conductive silver paint (Dupont part # 4817 or Mazda part # 2835077-600) applied with a brush.

To check operation of each filament in the hatch:

First, turn on the defroster and then use a voltmeter to check each filament for continuity. Do this by touching the negative probe to the car's body (ground) and the + probe from the voltmeter to the center of each filament one at a time. Each should read about 6 volts. Any that read low or not at all need to be repaired using the following procedure:

1. Turn off the defroster and clean the filaments and surrounding areas thoroughly with a non-alkaline solvent or alcohol to remove all traces of dirt, grease or adhesives.

2. Tape off the area on either side of any broken or low-continuity filaments in the hatch.

3. Using a small artist brush or "acid" brush, apply the conductive paint along the entire length of the defective filaments.

4. Allow the paint to dry for at least 24 hours at room temperature (around 68 to 72F).

5. Do not turn on the defroster until the paint is dry. Once dry, remove the masking tape and re-check for proper voltage.

This entire procedure is covered in the (otherwise useless) Haynes manual #460 for 1st gen RX7s on pages 166 and 167. I'd imagine buying the paint from a Dupont supplier would be cheaper than going to Mazda, but either would likely cost less than buying the entire hatch--- even if you get it from the wreckers.

 

lol would do that but some genius took a razor blade to the rear hatch to get th tint off.. it kinda worked on the tint.. it really worked on the defrost filaments

 

Damn you GX! Why must you curse me! IM CURSED!

 

Well that sucks. Yet another bit of info to support the theory that while the sum of the earth's human intelligence is a constant value, the population is growing by leaps and bounds.

Still, with a little more masking it should be doable to paint over the entire filament grid.

 

anyone know if there is an FC in the junk-yard?...

i need a rear sub-frame....

 

what for ? what happened?

 

bought the car from the crooked folk over seas

 

More like the previous owner did just that.

Thats the risk you take when you buy a car sight unseen and with a auction grade of "R" for repaired no less, so somewhere along the line it was in an accident, not good.

Anyways, I wish him luck in solving the issues with his car. A shame to not having it running right with so little time left to drive .

 

Especially with the last 5 or 6 days being without rain - about the longest stretch here in Calgary since last winter Been driving my 7 whenever I can.

 

Attn 2nd gen owners: As of today (Thursday, Oct. 13th) there is now a light metallic brown '88 GX (sorry Alak) 2+2 with red interior at Pick 'n Pull. As of this post it is virtually whole, with only the battery, rear tail lights and some trim items gleaned from both the interior and exterior.

The body is in very good shape with almost no rust whatsoever, a dent on the top of the left front fender and a few minor door dings. All glass is in good shape and the engine and entire drive line is unmolested. Both the rad and oil cooler are untouched and with the exception of a tear in the upper outboard drivers' seat the uphoulstry is in good shape. The exhaust isn't in very good shape and is stock, but the alternator appears brand new. Oh, and the rims are the stock ugly "phone-dial" ones.

I pulled the leading plugs from the front and rear rotors. Both were the right shade of tan with the rear plugs quite worn out and the front nearly new. There was no sign of oil in the coolant or vice-versa and no exterior engine leaks to speak of. This engine is probably good and at the very least a rebuildable core. The odometer read 192,000 km.

It's sickening that this car went to the wreckers instead of to one of us, but at least we can get the goodies if we move fast enough. Too bad there were no new-arrival 1st gens.

BTW, the white GX mentioned in previous posts is no longer there but the '81 base model still is and still has lots of parts left.

 

I was going to raid the fender off the white GX (since I need it) BUT, I managed to fix my fender! Took it off (mostly) and bent it back out. Moved the door back on its hinges and secured it in place. Looks good till' you get up close. Im happy now.

 

Just found this thread and wanted to drop in and say hi. You've got a good thing going here, I'll update as well whenever I head out which is usually a few times a year.

Hey if anyone ever happens across an '81-'85 with a glass moonroof I'll pay $100 for it. Cuz I doubt anyone would actually leave it there and report back here about it.

 

Those glass moonroofs are hard to come by and the chances of scoring one at a wrecking yard are nil. Sometimes they turn up on ebay for between $150 and $300 U.S., but you might be able to score one in the For Sale section of any of the sub-forums on this site.

 

I think mazda trix sells the glass moonroof for about 300 bones. Been awhile since I checked.

 

Thems would be U.S. bones not Canadian. And let's not forget UPS, the only carrier that Mazdatrix will use. UPS charges astronomical brokerage fees. By the time that roof panel arrives at your door you will have forked over an amount that's somewhere north of $500CDN.

 

hyeadlight switches.. ill be checkin tomorrow hopefully anyway but would be cool to know in advance

 

Anyone want a parts car?

I got the shortblock still in the vehicle. Driveshaft disconnected along with half shafts. Interrior is all there.

You'll have to tow it, I just want it out. The body is **** so dont be looking for fenders or quarter panels.

300$

 

I need a driver's side power mirror off a 1st gen Daytona/Laser, if you happen to be in the MOPAR section, B