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ATTEN:Polished and crome engine bay people...

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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 05:23 PM
  #26  
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Thanks...
Muchly appreciated...
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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 06:49 PM
  #27  
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Sad, so sad
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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 07:01 PM
  #28  
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Ian

Can you get the "zoop" at Canadian Tire, and how much is it?
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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 08:42 PM
  #29  
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yeah lots of work..... But worth it in the end...
I have an old 1/2 hp furnace motor with a buffing wheel on it I use for the actual polishing
I use a die grinder for the pockets and crevaces, I have a couple of aluminium discs for my angle grinder I use for getting rid of big casting lines and really deep gouges.. Then I work it over with 60 grit, then 200 then 400 then 600, with the wet and dry paper, I use alot of varsol as the wetting agent for the paper... Then I buff it... I use eagle rim polish to keep it from re oxidizing..I have heard of some people using linseed oil on it as well..
The powdercoating works really good to, and takes no real surface prep, but the coaters will probably sand blast the part prior to the coating, the powder that looks like chrome has flake in it, and has a slight sparkle to it, it doesn't match "buffed" parts totally, so keep with one or the other..
Which reminds me, I need to do my UIM...ugghhh..max
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 01:45 AM
  #30  
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From: MISSISSAUGA, ONT. CAN
In my experence with polishing after you are happy with the finish, tremclad has a special clear coat made for bare metal. So I just clear coat it and it stays shiney forever. My intake and manifolds were done, and they are as shiny as ever. Even on my brake and fuel lines, it held up.

I recently completed a set of valve covers for the supra motor along with some IC piping and it didn't take me very long with air tools, and sand paper and polish.

It's best to have polishing as a side project, cuz 3 days of polishing work will drive anyone insane.

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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 09:40 AM
  #31  
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If you want to find polishing compound along w/buffing wheels, keep an eye out on Princess Auto's website or store, they always sell the stuff cheap every once in a while.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 09:42 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by IAN
300-400grit to remove cast
600 to remove scratches
800+1000 polish.

buffing compound on cloth wheels. (Any scratches will show up right away)

its the small areas that are impossible to get to. I messed up by trying some sanding wheels only to put deep grooves in the aluminum. Its messy work.


http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...ORY&itemID=434

I would start way lower then 300-400 to remove grit. try like 60-120.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 07:34 PM
  #33  
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IAN
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Originally Posted by hondah8er
I would start way lower then 300-400 to remove grit. try like 60-120.
Thats true. I was using 80grit first.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 07:54 PM
  #34  
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
It takes alot of time but thats all it is...TIME. If your a super busy person pay someone to do it for you. If your not do it yourself...its FREE.
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Old Apr 10, 2005 | 03:01 PM
  #35  
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Update:

I tried my first polishing with an IC pipe. Man what a pain in the ***. THe sanding took forever, and even some of the pits and crevesed wont come out. I even used a belt sander, because it was so hard to get the first layer of crap off.

I give it about 6.5/10
If anyone wants to make some money I need a few small things done.
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