Another rx7 build
Another rx7 build
so rotor heads
I am build my 2nd gen rx this winter and i am looking for some direction I do not want to start yanking out everything.
I decided i am going to be spraying the engine bay with Por 15 and changing some bushings from the ES master bushing kit.
So this is going to be a have fun cruise car that i will be taking to the track its NOT a DD.
so a few things :-
ABS should I keep it ro get rid of it and why?
AC should i keep it or get rid of it and why?
should i change all the bushings or just whats in the kit?
Hybrid
I am not sure what to do...so i am putting it out there
I am build my 2nd gen rx this winter and i am looking for some direction I do not want to start yanking out everything.
I decided i am going to be spraying the engine bay with Por 15 and changing some bushings from the ES master bushing kit.
So this is going to be a have fun cruise car that i will be taking to the track its NOT a DD.
so a few things :-
ABS should I keep it ro get rid of it and why?
AC should i keep it or get rid of it and why?
should i change all the bushings or just whats in the kit?
Hybrid
I am not sure what to do...so i am putting it out there
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a lot of people in solo1 depend on their ABS, it makes great lap times a little more consistent. early last season an FD's ABS sensors became loaded with brake dust and the abs system quit and he flat spotted 1000$ worth of tires and wrecked his front air splitter. so don't become too dependent on it.
horsepower should be a last on your list.
upgrades in order or priority, kinda: Good tires, Dot4 brake fluid, Hawk blues. SS brake lines. coilovers. urethane bushings, weight reduction (hood, spare tire, remove dash components) gauges for water temp, oil temp, if turbo EGT gauges and radiator, TII calipers and OEM rotors.
horsepower should be a last on your list.
upgrades in order or priority, kinda: Good tires, Dot4 brake fluid, Hawk blues. SS brake lines. coilovers. urethane bushings, weight reduction (hood, spare tire, remove dash components) gauges for water temp, oil temp, if turbo EGT gauges and radiator, TII calipers and OEM rotors.
This is an interesting post.
I agree that engine is the last thing on your list as I was able to pull a 1:38.1 out of my car at Mosport with a stock S5 6 port and stock ecu.
My suggestions are as follows;
1) Remove as much weight out of the car as possible. The rotary has no torque so anything you can do to help the car accelerate and brake the better. Reduced weight also increases the benefits of any other changes. As part of this change the exhaust to a header and lighter back half. It makes some more power and makes you feel racier.
2) Tires and wheels. Reduce unsprung weight as much as you can with the lightest wheels you can find. Resist the urge to go all gonzo on the wheels. Dig up a set of 15x8 wheels and run a good Hoosier or for a daily driver a Nitto NT01 tire at the 225x50 or 45 x 15 size. You won't need more tire until you are burning those off after 10 laps. By burning I am talking about tire temps above 250 degrees.
3) Sway bars, shocks and springs. A good Koni or Bilstein performance shock with a 400 lb front spring and 350 lb rear spring (either coilover or direct replacement) combined with a set of aftermarket bars works great for a dual duty car.
4) Bushings. Put in the complete set of poly bushings front and rear. Its amazing how predictable the car becomes.
5) Posi. After a while you will find you are becoming frustrated with tirespin, that is when you should add a posi. Until that time a non-posi car is easier to drive. An open diff reduces turn in or off throttle understeer and limits power on oversteer.
6) A good seat and belts. It is very hard to go fast when you are trying to hold yourself in the seat. Get a good 5 point set and mount them properly. You are braver when you are safer.
7) Then add aero. A front and rear spoiler really help at a track like Mosport.
8) Finally start to play with the motor for more power. Up to this time you should still be on the stock ecu and the car will be bullet proof so you can concentrate on driving.
Just some advice as to what to add and when, form somebody who has done this too many times.
Eric
I agree that engine is the last thing on your list as I was able to pull a 1:38.1 out of my car at Mosport with a stock S5 6 port and stock ecu.
My suggestions are as follows;
1) Remove as much weight out of the car as possible. The rotary has no torque so anything you can do to help the car accelerate and brake the better. Reduced weight also increases the benefits of any other changes. As part of this change the exhaust to a header and lighter back half. It makes some more power and makes you feel racier.
2) Tires and wheels. Reduce unsprung weight as much as you can with the lightest wheels you can find. Resist the urge to go all gonzo on the wheels. Dig up a set of 15x8 wheels and run a good Hoosier or for a daily driver a Nitto NT01 tire at the 225x50 or 45 x 15 size. You won't need more tire until you are burning those off after 10 laps. By burning I am talking about tire temps above 250 degrees.
3) Sway bars, shocks and springs. A good Koni or Bilstein performance shock with a 400 lb front spring and 350 lb rear spring (either coilover or direct replacement) combined with a set of aftermarket bars works great for a dual duty car.
4) Bushings. Put in the complete set of poly bushings front and rear. Its amazing how predictable the car becomes.
5) Posi. After a while you will find you are becoming frustrated with tirespin, that is when you should add a posi. Until that time a non-posi car is easier to drive. An open diff reduces turn in or off throttle understeer and limits power on oversteer.
6) A good seat and belts. It is very hard to go fast when you are trying to hold yourself in the seat. Get a good 5 point set and mount them properly. You are braver when you are safer.
7) Then add aero. A front and rear spoiler really help at a track like Mosport.
8) Finally start to play with the motor for more power. Up to this time you should still be on the stock ecu and the car will be bullet proof so you can concentrate on driving.
Just some advice as to what to add and when, form somebody who has done this too many times.
Eric
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