Zack's AutoX and DD build thread---Savanna FC3S
10-31-12, 08:52 PM
#78
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Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
It's the recommended weight for the environment I live in
And to everyone, the build is essentially on hold until money and time catch up, and I've got a lot of time to prepare for the spring autox season.
11-01-12, 08:43 AM
#79
Originally Posted by 88GTU_AutoX
Oh, I understand now.
And to everyone, the build is essentially on hold until money and time catch up, and I've got a lot of time to prepare for the spring autox season.
11-24-12, 10:30 PM
#81
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Pretty big update today (for me):
A few weeks ago, I noticed a softness in my brake pedal that hadn't been there before. My pedal would depress at a stop light to stop me, and once still, it would continue to drop with the same pressure applied, and a week later I diagnosed it as the brake master cylinder seals. So I ordered a master cylinder, bought some used SS brake lines from a guy here, and installed it all today. Bench bleeding was quite a new experience, and it took me a bit to get the hang of it because the kit that came with the MC was a bad fit. But finally I got it put all together.
The verdict: MUCH better. The pedal response is great, it doesn't fade like it did beforehand, and the pressure-to-braking power is linear because of the SS lines. God, I love that feeling.
Perhaps the only issue I have is that the throw of the brake pedal from rest to half-brake is slightly longer than beforehand, even though I replaced the MC. Any ideas? I feel like the MC is engaging at the right time, (the pushrod is in the correct position), but if there is some way to change the pivot point and thereby increase pedal response, could someone point me in the right direction?
Overall, a much better, sure feeling upon braking.
A few weeks ago, I noticed a softness in my brake pedal that hadn't been there before. My pedal would depress at a stop light to stop me, and once still, it would continue to drop with the same pressure applied, and a week later I diagnosed it as the brake master cylinder seals. So I ordered a master cylinder, bought some used SS brake lines from a guy here, and installed it all today. Bench bleeding was quite a new experience, and it took me a bit to get the hang of it because the kit that came with the MC was a bad fit. But finally I got it put all together.
The verdict: MUCH better. The pedal response is great, it doesn't fade like it did beforehand, and the pressure-to-braking power is linear because of the SS lines. God, I love that feeling.
Perhaps the only issue I have is that the throw of the brake pedal from rest to half-brake is slightly longer than beforehand, even though I replaced the MC. Any ideas? I feel like the MC is engaging at the right time, (the pushrod is in the correct position), but if there is some way to change the pivot point and thereby increase pedal response, could someone point me in the right direction?
Overall, a much better, sure feeling upon braking.
11-25-12, 12:43 PM
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My car did the same exact thing. So after buying a new master cylinder then also thinking it was the calipers. We found out that the abs was leaking bad. Ripped that **** out and installed mazda trix abs delete.
11-25-12, 01:35 PM
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hmm, @Bobby M. Loo, my GTU doesn't have ABS. I also received a tip today that I hadn't done during bleeding: pump the brakes to increase the pressure before opening the valve. Apparently it can push a lot of the air in other parts of the lines towards the calipers. It may be air all of the way back by the MC, because to install one, the lines around the MC are disconnected...
This is all conjecture of course. I'll re-bleed soon enough because it's free. Then I'll try other things.
@clokker, why would I want to go through all of that again?
This is all conjecture of course. I'll re-bleed soon enough because it's free. Then I'll try other things.
@clokker, why would I want to go through all of that again?
11-27-12, 11:23 AM
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I think that I know what my family is getting me for Christmas.
If I haven't hinted at this earlier, I'm a high school student, so this is still a bit deal for me. :p
From my parents, a new Craftsman pneumatic impact gun and set of metric sockets.
From my grandparents, a new Exedy OEM replacement clutch from Mazdatrix (to keep me in stock class).
That'll put a boost in my starts and shifts, as my clutch slips during hard shifts and my wheels are a BATCH (of cookies) to take off and put on quickly.
If I haven't hinted at this earlier, I'm a high school student, so this is still a bit deal for me. :p
From my parents, a new Craftsman pneumatic impact gun and set of metric sockets.
From my grandparents, a new Exedy OEM replacement clutch from Mazdatrix (to keep me in stock class).
That'll put a boost in my starts and shifts, as my clutch slips during hard shifts and my wheels are a BATCH (of cookies) to take off and put on quickly.
01-23-13, 12:11 AM
#88
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Well, it's time for a much needed update.
I have now completed my first clutch job, and it is back together AND running. It's miles ahead of what I had.
Now, I'm saving for a front sway bar. Hopefully it will be on before the season starts.
Alongside all of this, I also am getting tired of a certain clunking of my rear differential. I am 90% sure that it is due to a "dead zone" between the teeth of the stub shafts and the splines of the differential. If you or anyone you know happens to have a diff with shafts laying about, let me know.
I have now completed my first clutch job, and it is back together AND running.
It's miles ahead of what I had.Now, I'm saving for a front sway bar. Hopefully it will be on before the season starts.
Alongside all of this, I also am getting tired of a certain clunking of my rear differential. I am 90% sure that it is due to a "dead zone" between the teeth of the stub shafts and the splines of the differential. If you or anyone you know happens to have a diff with shafts laying about, let me know.
01-23-13, 11:22 PM
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Today I adjusted the clutch pedal quite a bit to make up for the free play both at the top and the bottom of a push. The result is very quick shifts.
It looks like I may have a sway bar on the way soon as well.
It looks like I may have a sway bar on the way soon as well.
01-24-13, 09:22 AM
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I'm not telling who... and thanks! It was quite a bit of work to a guy like me, but now I know more about my drivetrain than ever before. Right now, other than buying the sway, I'm working on a different problem. That clunking, would you have any ideas on how to fix it? Here's a thread that I started awhile ago: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...ounts-1017609/
I'm thinking that it is null from within the diff somewhere, but I'm not sure if I need new stub shafts, or spider gears, or what. Or just buy a new diff.
01-25-13, 11:39 AM
#92
If the *** end squats when you're running the gears then I would check the rear diff mounts, I know the ones on my GXL are bad but so were my tranny mounts which killed my u-joint. If the diff mounts are bad it causes the whole rear end to shift back and forth
01-25-13, 09:36 PM
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Great to see another Rx7 autocrosser... I autocross here in South Carolina every other month, I have been liking it more and more each time. Good luck with your build
01-26-13, 11:17 AM
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That sounds like the issue, Shadowscreed. I'm going to try to find the break again. I'm just not very sure of where to look on the mount for a break...?
And thanks, Simon! I got started in AutoX in my civic, but this rx7 is SO much more fun around those corners. I'm aiming for 1st in Estock this year, which is a very competitive class in the kcrscca (about ten competitors per event).
And thanks, Simon! I got started in AutoX in my civic, but this rx7 is SO much more fun around those corners. I'm aiming for 1st in Estock this year, which is a very competitive class in the kcrscca (about ten competitors per event).
01-26-13, 01:56 PM
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Well, here's a photo of the mount. There is the rip you can see and a similar one about 1/2 inch below in the same fashion. Would that constitute a broken mount?
