88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Haha...I think he meant 30 per. I just got a set today for 50 total. And I'll be driving on crap pads and rotors until I find a stupid amount of money in my budget. Plus, rotors don't make the brakes. So long as they're straight, the pads and lines do all the work. Slotted or drilled on a stock car like this would be a waste...

UPDATE: As is seen above, I got new rotors. Also new, a "Mazda" sticker for my airbox (mine didn't come with one), a new shock boot, and --get this-- a heater to left engine coolant hose that I was about to pay 40 bucks to Mazda for. For 5 dollars.

Question: Is the steering wheel seen above specifically an S5 wheel? The guy who sold me the stuff said the S4's came with different ones...? if so, the previous owner gave me a good deal.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Gotta be careful with those heater hoses, they tend to have issues. I replaced mine with a nice 4' section of Gates 3/4" hose and rerouted it to run directly from the engine to the radiator bypassing the heater core. Before I did that I had mine blow, ironically it happened a couple days after i did a highway pull with a G35, lol. Good luck and look forward to seeing this build come along

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

That's pretty weird...Infiniti must have something out for rx-7s... I'm definitely leaving the heater core connected--Kansas weather gets pretty gnarly during the winter, and I've already had to use it in the mornings. I may just leave the bulk hose I used (Gates) as a quick patch because it's working so well and is more out of the way of the oil filter than the other.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

New rotors are in, I'll be getting an alignment tomorrow (just noticed that my front left tire has a bunch of wear on the inside), and Friday I'll be breaking in the slicks and showing at a bi-weekly event called "Fast Fridays". This is a good week.

Adding to the "good", I've got someone with a strong interest in some Azenis RT-615k's I am selling off of my old Civic. likely 200-250 more in the bag for my lovely Savanna...

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

If you want any help with anything feel free to PM or contact me via email or phone or text, it's all in my sig. On my GXL I did a full emissions and hvac delete as well as power steering, which started as removing non working components and has ultimately opened up alot of extra space in the engine bay, but I also made things simpler by rerouting alot of hoses and removing the vacuum spider then rerouting those as well.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, man! I appreciate the offer, and maybe I'll take you up on it!

UPDATE: Car is aligned...Unfortunately learned that the irregular tire wear on the inside of my FL wheel is actually being caused by the struts. I'm doing some research into it as I type. I'll likely get a couple replacement struts for the front for the time being, and next year (when I have the money) I'll buy Bilstein HDs.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Go with some KYB GR-2's or Gas-A-Just's, I'm running some GR-2's on the front and Gas-a-Just rears that I got from a vert I scrapped, they ride good and will give you a good feel for when you start Auto-Xing, and they work great for drifting, but before that I was drifting on the stock suspension and all four corners were blown.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

I can also have my friend check the two FC's in the junkyard in PA to see if they have anything worth a damn for suspension if you want

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

That sounds great, man! Hit me up if anything surfaces.

UPDATE: Here is Savanna, shiny and sexy in her new shoes (which resemble ballet slippers in the way that the 15" wheels are holding 50 sidewall tires...).







The tires are nice and sticky, clearly regardless of the fact that they are 4 years old (babied the whole time double-bagged in a basement). The improvement in acceleration is apparent.

My downer for the day is that I LOST in a rolling start from 1st with a freaking CIVIC. :/ My clutch is gone, no matter how many times I wish to go on without paying attention. I can redline in 2nd gear after a shift in a 1/4 second...while going only 30 mph.

Can anyone point me to a useful DIY on clutches? I've honestly searched the forums (though the organization can leave something to be desired), and I can't find a true DIY.

Thanks all, peace.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Clutch is a clutch. There is nothing special about changing the clutch on this car. Just look in the FSM for the proper instructions.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Jack it up or put it on a lift and unbolt the driveshaft, unbolt the transmission and replace the clutch, it's that simple. If you were closer to Tucson I'd come do the work for you or have you bring it by the shop I work at.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Hmm... Thanks guys. I'll do it this winter myself.

UPDATE: Just got back from first event!! forgot camera...but it was really fun anyway! Those r-comps are just what I needed. They warmed up and hooked up well. Gotta say, RWD is a ton of fun.
Unfortunately, I have begun to notice an issue. The engine is running hot. ish. I think it may be entirely the thermostat, so I'll replace that first, but if it isnt that, I'll get the radiators reconditioned and flush coolant and whatever else it needs.

Fun weekend though!!

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Well, I just read through the clutch section of the FSM, and here are a couple questions:
What tools (specialty) will I need? And which are specific to my car, and which can I improvise with other tools?
Thanks

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

You don't need any specialty tools to do the clutch, the most special tool you'll need is a clutch alignment tool and if you buy a clutch kit (Exedy, ACT, Spec are good to use) they usually come with a plastic one that works just fine, or you can take a piece of cold steel and make your own or buy one somewhere.

And yes RWD's are very fun, drifting is one of my favorite hobbies.

Is the engine running hotter under all conditions or just when you were running it hard at the track for a short to extended period of time? And also when you ran it hard did you give it a cooldown lap/run?

Check and replace your thermostat if needed, I use a 160degree thermostat, and if that and a flush doesn't keep your temps within normal range then I would do a champagne test and compression test.

RoToRhEaD722

iTrader: (5)

Mazdatrix sells flywheel stops for pretty cheap, you may need that as well! Having 1 or 2 of your buddy's around is a good idea too! Sometimes friends can be specialty tools, or just special

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

This is true, I had my friend stand on my engine while I used a 54mm socket, 3/4" breaker bar and a 4 foot jack handle to get the flywheel nuts on my engines untorqued

Knockers

175 psi line pressure+1/2" impact gun=loose flywheel

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking at the Exedy OEM replacement, and I have a friend with one on his fc. He loves it. I'll check to see if the tool comes with it.

I was running 1 minute under pretty much full load until driving back into the lot, and then shutting it off. Usually it was right at half after a run, and I shut it off 1 minute after hard driving. It would cool slightly after a run like that, then the next would bring it right back up to that point.

Could you explain the "champagne test" to me? Thanks.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Wow. Looks like I need to borrow an impact and a good compressor.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Just ordered some parts from Mazdatrix: rubber antenna, front Mazda logo, and thermo.
Im also looking at making a trade w/originalwheels.com to get rid of my awkward wheel and buy a machined one.

Also, the heat levels have been stable all of today. I seems like they threw themselves out of wack during the races, and then slowly fell back to normal... anyone know what that could mean?

88fc3sT2

iTrader: (1)

Do you have all the original air dams and shrouds?

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

A champagne test is used to check for air bubbles in the coolant at the fill neck in the radiator and is used to diagnose for blown coolant seals. Considering the conditions you specified about your cooling issue I think you'll be okay and replacement of the thermostat would help. Another issue you may have run into when driving it hard, could be that anytime between 5200-6000rpm cavitation occurs in the water pump, this can be fixed by replacing the water pump pulley with an under-drive pulley, Racing Beat offers a Dual Sheave pulley set for the alternator and water pump for $142 that correct this issue and also does the same to the alternator so as not to overload it, since it reaches peak load at 3500rpm. These pulley sets are not a necessity but can be helpful if you plan on seeing higher rpm's for more than 20% of your driving time.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

As far as I know. The shrouds, the skidplate, and everything else seem to be there.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the help... Also, I've read up a bit on cavitation and it certainly sounds like a possibility. I will likely save up for a pulley like that, but unfortunately for me, small mods like that are often enough to kick me from stock class. Unless it's OEM colored, of course. I'll probably look further into it after more power mods and during a rise into street touring class.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Here's a link to the dual sheave pulley set, they are black in the picture so they will theoretically appear stock and since they are a reliability mod it shouldn't bump you out of stock class.

RX7 1986-1992: Cooling System: Alternator and Main Drive Pulley Set - Double Sheave - 74-92 Rotary Engines (All) -