Vert Restoration 101!!! (heavy) - UPDATE 2014
#105
Update :under body:
Its been a while since a update. Ive ran over so many bumps in the road. Ive been fighting cat **** for 6+ months. Cats **** on my car, **** eats into metal, metal rusts. Ive been sandblasting the same things over and over over again b/c of this. The cats are gone now so thats a huge weight off my shoulders. The underneith has been a disaster. Ive had so many problems with chemical reactions then stripping it back down and starting over. I believe the underneith is coming to an end finally and there will be pics posted asap.
#106
As off about 10min ago, the underneith is complete!!. WOOOSAHHH. Haaaaa...What a loooonnnggggg adventure. During cure times i added up how much money i have invested into the underneith. It is a rough estimate but at the very very minimum $2,200. Pictures will be up soon. Next step is to get the rearend/subframe done. I think im going to make a powdercoating setup.....ya thats a greattt idea!!! How come i haventreally thought of this before!
Off top of my head:
-East wood powder gun
-2 electric ovens... 1 will prbably work fine actually. Modify it so the stove top burners are now mounted on the door. Leave the door open and box in the opening.
-Powder!
Ohhhh ya..scanning craiglist for cheap stoves. This is a good idea
Off top of my head:
-East wood powder gun
-2 electric ovens... 1 will prbably work fine actually. Modify it so the stove top burners are now mounted on the door. Leave the door open and box in the opening.
-Powder!
Ohhhh ya..scanning craiglist for cheap stoves. This is a good idea
#114
The last few weeks i have been working on the car non-stop! I will upload pictures tomo . I got the rear subframe sandblasted. I actually went threw the electrolysis rust removing phase first then hit all the nooks and crannys with the blaster. I got my gas tanke sumped and the Dual 044 setup mounted and lines ran. Few pics blasting.
Yesterday i worked on the Colt all day. Got the new Brake setup on and made it a roller again.
Should look like this
Yesterday i worked on the Colt all day. Got the new Brake setup on and made it a roller again.
Should look like this
#115
A few more pictures of how the bottom turned out
Up to this point on the underneith, everything pictured has been sandblasted, primed/painted/cleared. (With the exception of the ghetto rig shocks i made to hold the rear end up). The Gas tank is painted black w/ a hint of silver sparkle along with the gas tank straps. The rear subframe is painted black. I also painted the rear sway bar just for the heck of it. I will be changing it out for a upgrade later.
Re-constructed the Rear subframe to allow the gas line to go threw. The line is not throughly mounted, its still in mockup.
Dual Bosch 044's. 2 -8 to 1 -10. (please dont inform me of the pieces of tape stuck everywere)
Sorta like a metalic gunmetal color. I personally love the color.
Up to this point on the underneith, everything pictured has been sandblasted, primed/painted/cleared. (With the exception of the ghetto rig shocks i made to hold the rear end up). The Gas tank is painted black w/ a hint of silver sparkle along with the gas tank straps. The rear subframe is painted black. I also painted the rear sway bar just for the heck of it. I will be changing it out for a upgrade later.
Re-constructed the Rear subframe to allow the gas line to go threw. The line is not throughly mounted, its still in mockup.
Dual Bosch 044's. 2 -8 to 1 -10. (please dont inform me of the pieces of tape stuck everywere)
Sorta like a metalic gunmetal color. I personally love the color.
#116
Now onto the front subframe ect.. I decided to do the "steering mod". I dont have ps anymore so i figured i would clean the rack up. I cut everything off of it, welded a few holes **** so far. I will attack the rest of the holes, sand blast it, bondo it up so everything looks symetrical.
#117
Update:
You can see some of the faint pits that i couldnt get out. I did not want to take any more material off the arm
Whoever used the control arms as jacking spots. I could not take any more deep gouges out. Is what it Is.
Next:
Blast front subframe and all the brackets. Get them all in color. Install my Fuel FIlter (need mount). Send engine ***. to Carlos Lopez to get balanced. Order EXH. manifold tubing & flanges. Start grinding on the brakes Not going to be fun.
Tomo ill be picking up some "crystal clear". a product that comes in a aersol can. It is basically a clear but for polished items. Makes the aluminum keeps its shine, protects it.
You can see some of the faint pits that i couldnt get out. I did not want to take any more material off the arm
Whoever used the control arms as jacking spots. I could not take any more deep gouges out. Is what it Is.
Next:
Blast front subframe and all the brackets. Get them all in color. Install my Fuel FIlter (need mount). Send engine ***. to Carlos Lopez to get balanced. Order EXH. manifold tubing & flanges. Start grinding on the brakes Not going to be fun.
Tomo ill be picking up some "crystal clear". a product that comes in a aersol can. It is basically a clear but for polished items. Makes the aluminum keeps its shine, protects it.
#119
Rabbit hole specialist
iTrader: (11)
Yeah, I thought my media blasted and clear coated LCAs looked good, but those are nice. I thought of doing a light polish on mine, but my friend talked me out of it. Whatever gets done to them, it is nice to see some of us go to those sort of lengths to improve the details.
Great work!
Great work!
#120
They were media blasted, sanded with 360-400-600-800-1000, then polished. All the black is the compound from the polishing wheel. I have since took a rag and got some compound out. The other control arm is going to turn out much nicer . Has less gouges and i took more scratches out right from the beginning.
My goal is to find out if DGRR along with many other contests is rigged LMAO, jk jk i kid.
My goal is to find out if DGRR along with many other contests is rigged LMAO, jk jk i kid.
#122
Senior Member
Nice work man,
Your fuel system gave me some idea's to think about.
First i was thinking about getting the fuel hose from stock location to inside the car, to later add a swirl pot. But totaly forgot we have a steel fuel tank....
So i am a bit curious about what u did on the inside of the tank. I could imagine that if u do some work on the inside, u dont need a swirl pot at all.
What kind of fuel hose did u use (an06?) ?
What kind of filters are you going to use (10micron?)
And then dual hose all the way to the front and one back for return?
let me know,
thanks
Your fuel system gave me some idea's to think about.
First i was thinking about getting the fuel hose from stock location to inside the car, to later add a swirl pot. But totaly forgot we have a steel fuel tank....
So i am a bit curious about what u did on the inside of the tank. I could imagine that if u do some work on the inside, u dont need a swirl pot at all.
What kind of fuel hose did u use (an06?) ?
What kind of filters are you going to use (10micron?)
And then dual hose all the way to the front and one back for return?
let me know,
thanks
#124
Nice work man,
Your fuel system gave me some idea's to think about.
First i was thinking about getting the fuel hose from stock location to inside the car, to later add a swirl pot. But totaly forgot we have a steel fuel tank....
I (personally) would never put any sort of fuel line running threw my car. Although many cars come that way from the factory. One thing to think about if your car is a street car/ commute car, when you add a swirl pot on the inside of the cabin, the smell of raw fuel all the time gets a bit over whelming.
So i am a bit curious about what u did on the inside of the tank. I could imagine that if u do some work on the inside, u dont need a swirl pot at all.
I actually did nothing to the internals on the tank. There is no need to as the baffling on this tank is setup perfect from the factory. Just buy the sump and weld it on. Getting it to fit perfect is a battle but not to bad. SWirl pots are used for fuel starvation issues. Weather it be from launching hard, turning corners hard, drifting ect. The pot acts like a 2nd gas tank that is pretty much guarenteed to be full all the time if your system is built correctly. As to my setup, it is very very very hard for fuel starvation to occur. THeres always fuel in the sump, its the lowest part of the gas tank.. period.
What kind of fuel hose did u use (an06?) ? 2 -8an into 1 -10an
What kind of filters are you going to use (10micron?) I have a aeromotive filter, the micron i cannot remember. Probably 100. Its this one http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...2-fuel-filter/
And then dual hose all the way to the front and one back for return? 2 -8 into 1 -10 then back out to 2 -8 at the rails. Then both returns on the rail goes into the FPR and 1-8 return. I have the fuel filter attached and mounted, i will get pictures..
Your fuel system gave me some idea's to think about.
First i was thinking about getting the fuel hose from stock location to inside the car, to later add a swirl pot. But totaly forgot we have a steel fuel tank....
I (personally) would never put any sort of fuel line running threw my car. Although many cars come that way from the factory. One thing to think about if your car is a street car/ commute car, when you add a swirl pot on the inside of the cabin, the smell of raw fuel all the time gets a bit over whelming.
So i am a bit curious about what u did on the inside of the tank. I could imagine that if u do some work on the inside, u dont need a swirl pot at all.
I actually did nothing to the internals on the tank. There is no need to as the baffling on this tank is setup perfect from the factory. Just buy the sump and weld it on. Getting it to fit perfect is a battle but not to bad. SWirl pots are used for fuel starvation issues. Weather it be from launching hard, turning corners hard, drifting ect. The pot acts like a 2nd gas tank that is pretty much guarenteed to be full all the time if your system is built correctly. As to my setup, it is very very very hard for fuel starvation to occur. THeres always fuel in the sump, its the lowest part of the gas tank.. period.
What kind of fuel hose did u use (an06?) ? 2 -8an into 1 -10an
What kind of filters are you going to use (10micron?) I have a aeromotive filter, the micron i cannot remember. Probably 100. Its this one http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...2-fuel-filter/
And then dual hose all the way to the front and one back for return? 2 -8 into 1 -10 then back out to 2 -8 at the rails. Then both returns on the rail goes into the FPR and 1-8 return. I have the fuel filter attached and mounted, i will get pictures..
Now, the issues that i have not tackeld that have arose:
- I probably dont need both pumps all the time. So either put a check valve on one of the pumps so when it is not in use gas cannot go backwards threw it, or just say f-it and run them both all the time as ill have a big alternator.
- Ill be running either 6 ID 2000's or 2 ID 1000's and 4 ID 2000's, i have not made up my mind yet. Anyhow, there has to be 3 Gas lines coming out of 1 -10 . The solution is getting a FEMALE Y that has 1 in and 3 out.