Saving a black s4 tII
03-29-14, 10:24 AM
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wankeler
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Saving a black s4 tII
Hey everyone, Thanks for checking out my build thread. I needed a little motivation so I created this to help me go along.
My name is Jesse and I live in iowa. My mom had a first gen when I was born so rx7 is in my blood. A few years ago a deal came up that I couldn't pass up. There was a guy selling a black s4 with a salvage title and 90000 on the clock. After a little negotiation I was on a 2 hour trip to a car that was a questionable starter. When I got there I was in love and ended up driving it home for 1600.
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I saved it from a teen trying to fund his mustang he blew up. As you can see anything he could take off and paint green he did. This project has been pretty slow going for the last 2 years but Ill bring you up to speed.
When I got it the car wouldn't hold a steady idle didn't start up on its own and would boost creep hard. Glad I didn't blow her up. I have a cheap exhaust that I replaced the stock cut up downpipe. Removed the MBC the PO installed and fixed all vacuum lines as well as rats nest removal. New manifold gaskets.
I still have a ton of work left to do as she wont start without help. (jump or start spray) Solid idle at around 500. runs perfect once started and Id drive it anywhere. Warm start with a little peddle is easy.
The plan for today is..
Take current pictures
Replace flat tire
Get the starting harness out and inspect
Any comments appreciated and thanks for looking!!!
My name is Jesse and I live in iowa. My mom had a first gen when I was born so rx7 is in my blood. A few years ago a deal came up that I couldn't pass up. There was a guy selling a black s4 with a salvage title and 90000 on the clock. After a little negotiation I was on a 2 hour trip to a car that was a questionable starter. When I got there I was in love and ended up driving it home for 1600.
[img]
[/img][img]
[/img][img]
[/img]I saved it from a teen trying to fund his mustang he blew up. As you can see anything he could take off and paint green he did. This project has been pretty slow going for the last 2 years but Ill bring you up to speed.
When I got it the car wouldn't hold a steady idle didn't start up on its own and would boost creep hard. Glad I didn't blow her up. I have a cheap exhaust that I replaced the stock cut up downpipe. Removed the MBC the PO installed and fixed all vacuum lines as well as rats nest removal. New manifold gaskets.
I still have a ton of work left to do as she wont start without help. (jump or start spray) Solid idle at around 500. runs perfect once started and Id drive it anywhere. Warm start with a little peddle is easy.
The plan for today is..
Take current pictures
Replace flat tire
Get the starting harness out and inspect
Any comments appreciated and thanks for looking!!!
03-31-14, 07:45 AM
#3
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you mean fast and the furious was a lie? just playing, my interior of my fc was cut out for like 8 speakers. no matter what someone wanted the car for something else
03-31-14, 08:17 PM
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wankeler
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Well.... lets start with a little more documentation. The major damage as received. To start things off she has a red black rattle can NA hood with a hole cut out for the scoop. Also the matching black rattle can front bumper.
A large dent in the back above the pass side light. I am not experienced at all in body work but will try my best. Not really sure how to attack this one...
Beat to **** fenders and headlight covers. The covers don't appear to be to bad but the drivers side contacts the hood when its raised and lowered. Ill try my hand at body work on these first as I can get new ones if im no good.
And finally a shot of the nose area. Not all to sure what happened but I assume a deer right between the headlights or something to that effect. Between the headlights has been mangled and welded back by a couple drunk rednecks. I plan on cutting out this area and making a vmount this fall/winter.
The main selling point for this car to me were that there was a lack of rust. If you know the anything about the grand old Midwest (or anywhere with salty winter roads for that matter) than you know cars usually suffer from a horribly cancerous death. In the not to distant future I plan on some sort of bedliner type coating to the underside to preserve the shell. If anyone has any tips on prep and application im all ears.
Now for this weekend.
I started out Saturday very excited to come out of hibernation but after changing the oil in my DD(97 park av) it started going downhill. I had a hell of a time getting the oil filter off. I really don't get people who tighten the damn things down so hard!! After that I had to clean the mess that I had left myself over last fall before I could even think about working on my cars this year. Killed my day but it is very nice to be organized and have everything ready to walk right out and do work. I really wish I had some garage space to work in.
Now for the highlight of my year. Sunday I finally got the chance to check out the car. Hopped in like I try and do for the first start. Fresh battery with only the key gets me cranking but no start, same with a little peddle. I know I can spray it started but Ive found out the last few starts last year I can start it with a little push of the AFM, Im not all to sure why this is but I made this thread in hops of some expert reading this can chime in and offer me some help. Well anyways back on topic with a small press of the flapper door she fired right to life. Nice solid idle at 700ish and a digital thermometer in had I sat about checking engine temp to see if everything weas being controlled by the cheap fan control I purchased. I have a mercury villiger fan I fit on and only have low wired to a probe style fan control. I will say that while a little skeptical of the control and my setup.(in the dark and cold of fall) It turned on with a front water pump temp of 197 and a upper radiator temp of around 185. The hottest temps I observed were right behind the cas beteween the engine of 207. Not sure how good these temps are but again hoping one of you nice people will offer advise. I TOOK HER FOR THE FIRST SPIN OF THER YEAR!! Man did she feel good in the few miles I drove a mix between mild and aggressive driving she build and held solid boost thanks to my wastegate modification. Thanks to all who have posted anything regarding this as this was my first major mod to any car and has worked on and to great results. Not once was I nervous she would die on me but upon returning the idle was at the second lowest mark I think 500 mabie and would cut out to the lowest mark. Not quite sure where to start as this is a new problem. Oh well I don't mind research. Depending on feedback might make a thread specifically for these problems. Checked temps once again and noted nothing higher than 188
Sorry for being so long winded I just wanted to get as much detail in as possible. Thanks for reading and stay tuned for the next installment.
Oh and one more picture because I can
Just a little engine shot before I start cleaning the bay.
A large dent in the back above the pass side light. I am not experienced at all in body work but will try my best. Not really sure how to attack this one...
Beat to **** fenders and headlight covers. The covers don't appear to be to bad but the drivers side contacts the hood when its raised and lowered. Ill try my hand at body work on these first as I can get new ones if im no good.
And finally a shot of the nose area. Not all to sure what happened but I assume a deer right between the headlights or something to that effect. Between the headlights has been mangled and welded back by a couple drunk rednecks. I plan on cutting out this area and making a vmount this fall/winter.
The main selling point for this car to me were that there was a lack of rust. If you know the anything about the grand old Midwest (or anywhere with salty winter roads for that matter) than you know cars usually suffer from a horribly cancerous death. In the not to distant future I plan on some sort of bedliner type coating to the underside to preserve the shell. If anyone has any tips on prep and application im all ears.
Now for this weekend.
I started out Saturday very excited to come out of hibernation but after changing the oil in my DD(97 park av) it started going downhill. I had a hell of a time getting the oil filter off. I really don't get people who tighten the damn things down so hard!! After that I had to clean the mess that I had left myself over last fall before I could even think about working on my cars this year. Killed my day but it is very nice to be organized and have everything ready to walk right out and do work. I really wish I had some garage space to work in.
Now for the highlight of my year. Sunday I finally got the chance to check out the car. Hopped in like I try and do for the first start. Fresh battery with only the key gets me cranking but no start, same with a little peddle. I know I can spray it started but Ive found out the last few starts last year I can start it with a little push of the AFM, Im not all to sure why this is but I made this thread in hops of some expert reading this can chime in and offer me some help. Well anyways back on topic with a small press of the flapper door she fired right to life. Nice solid idle at 700ish and a digital thermometer in had I sat about checking engine temp to see if everything weas being controlled by the cheap fan control I purchased. I have a mercury villiger fan I fit on and only have low wired to a probe style fan control. I will say that while a little skeptical of the control and my setup.(in the dark and cold of fall) It turned on with a front water pump temp of 197 and a upper radiator temp of around 185. The hottest temps I observed were right behind the cas beteween the engine of 207. Not sure how good these temps are but again hoping one of you nice people will offer advise. I TOOK HER FOR THE FIRST SPIN OF THER YEAR!! Man did she feel good in the few miles I drove a mix between mild and aggressive driving she build and held solid boost thanks to my wastegate modification. Thanks to all who have posted anything regarding this as this was my first major mod to any car and has worked on and to great results. Not once was I nervous she would die on me but upon returning the idle was at the second lowest mark I think 500 mabie and would cut out to the lowest mark. Not quite sure where to start as this is a new problem. Oh well I don't mind research. Depending on feedback might make a thread specifically for these problems. Checked temps once again and noted nothing higher than 188
Sorry for being so long winded I just wanted to get as much detail in as possible. Thanks for reading and stay tuned for the next installment.
Oh and one more picture because I can
Just a little engine shot before I start cleaning the bay.
04-12-14, 05:58 PM
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wankeler
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Hi anyone. Not much has been going on. I drove her to work a few times with a little help from my friends. haha
Well today was the nicest Saturday of the year. I hit the junkyard bright and early. My goal was some relays for my windows found the four nicest I could. Thank you multiple tauruses. Started prepping a 13b for removal. Its a gsl-se. Im not to sure what the differences are but im pulling it anyways. I need as many as possible. Anything else worthwhile to look at scavenge The car wasn't in to bad of condition last year but the last time I went there it was sandwitched between two other cars. As of today she had been ran over and basically rendered useless as anything but a heart donor...
Back to the TII. When I got home I decided to start testing with the tps got the engine warm and backprobed the tps connecter on the A and B wires and it started out at .4 1kohm and no matter how I turned the screw the highest it would get is a little over half. With full throttle it would only go up to less than 2kohm. Now Im not 100% on my test procedure but I think I need a new TPS? Thinking I may have found the problem. Im wishing someone might chime in with some advice but seeing as the lack of interest im this sad thread not to hopefull.
Anyways to sum up the day I believe I need to get a new tps. Good thing My fathers friend works in the local mazda parts dealer. I need to get new shifter surround as mine are missing and its getting awefull warm and if I want to drive this car it will be too hot with the exhaust heat coming in.
Well today was the nicest Saturday of the year. I hit the junkyard bright and early. My goal was some relays for my windows found the four nicest I could. Thank you multiple tauruses. Started prepping a 13b for removal. Its a gsl-se. Im not to sure what the differences are but im pulling it anyways. I need as many as possible. Anything else worthwhile to look at scavenge The car wasn't in to bad of condition last year but the last time I went there it was sandwitched between two other cars. As of today she had been ran over and basically rendered useless as anything but a heart donor...
Back to the TII. When I got home I decided to start testing with the tps got the engine warm and backprobed the tps connecter on the A and B wires and it started out at .4 1kohm and no matter how I turned the screw the highest it would get is a little over half. With full throttle it would only go up to less than 2kohm. Now Im not 100% on my test procedure but I think I need a new TPS? Thinking I may have found the problem. Im wishing someone might chime in with some advice but seeing as the lack of interest im this sad thread not to hopefull.
Anyways to sum up the day I believe I need to get a new tps. Good thing My fathers friend works in the local mazda parts dealer. I need to get new shifter surround as mine are missing and its getting awefull warm and if I want to drive this car it will be too hot with the exhaust heat coming in.
04-12-14, 08:05 PM
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wankeler
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Also forgot to mention my bac valve is bad. My test for this was when it was warmed up I disconnected and nothing happened. Tomorrow im going to apply 12v and see if I hear a click.
04-28-14, 08:50 PM
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wankeler
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Well all who cares... ended tearing her back down. After 3 hours of elbow grease the throttle body was spotless as well as the upper manifold.
114$ and some overnight parts from mazda all back together but still with no luck with only a key turn. Got her started and checked timing My guesstement was about 15is deg btdc. Got the timing on and man what a difference in idle! Before she sounded like a popcorn machine now she sounds like a drum of bees. Well took her to work and she had no power into boost. Backfiring like crazy. I decided to swap in a gsl-se TPS and she runs great.
Now for the problems.. even though noone seems to chime in to much. I got 12v out of the BAC connector and when battery is applied it clicks. Now she wont start without a little peddle and only idles around 500 or less. When I disconnect the BAC or jump the initial set coupler the idle dosent go down like it should. Im not to sure how to test what the problem is but Im going to trudge on because Im the only one I know who can fix this car.
Not much for pictures I know how you people love pictures but when working alone its not an easy thing to remember to take pictures of everything. Well thanks for checking in!!!
114$ and some overnight parts from mazda all back together but still with no luck with only a key turn. Got her started and checked timing My guesstement was about 15is deg btdc. Got the timing on and man what a difference in idle! Before she sounded like a popcorn machine now she sounds like a drum of bees. Well took her to work and she had no power into boost. Backfiring like crazy. I decided to swap in a gsl-se TPS and she runs great.
Now for the problems.. even though noone seems to chime in to much. I got 12v out of the BAC connector and when battery is applied it clicks. Now she wont start without a little peddle and only idles around 500 or less. When I disconnect the BAC or jump the initial set coupler the idle dosent go down like it should. Im not to sure how to test what the problem is but Im going to trudge on because Im the only one I know who can fix this car.
Not much for pictures I know how you people love pictures but when working alone its not an easy thing to remember to take pictures of everything. Well thanks for checking in!!!
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04-29-14, 09:08 PM
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wankeler
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88T2 I've taken it down to the keg and replaced all gaskets. Simplified new vacuum lines. The TB was cleaned with cleaner as well as gasoline rinsed and blown dry. When I took off the TB for cleaning I found a cap blew off and a t for the pressure sensor and pressure valve broke. I've since taken of the pressure valve which is just an open line and ran the sensor straight to the source. Yesterday I put a speced good TPS on set to 1k ohm. Now when I put the new TPS on it made a word of difference in load. I have power again!
Well as is my usual now I started the day trying to start her up to work. Fresh battery wouldn't start little spray in afm she starts up no problem. Idle at 500ish no change as warming up. On the way the boost gauge was working? Lastnight it wasn't. Drives so smooth. Only took her up to 4k with the shitty exhaust I have its so loud! Makes me nervous to take her any further Maybe I just need to get used to rotary?
To return home gave her a little more spray and again nice solid idle around 500. When I got home I wanted to set the TPS to 1vdc instead of the 1komh. I went to measure the volts and it was .92 from being set with ohm. I than set it to around 1vdc and went through the sweep a few times nice and gradual. Let it slam shut a few time and it held solid. Now onto the problem with the BAC. I again tested with battery and it clicks. When the key is on I don't hear a click when I place the connecter on. I am getting 12ish v out of the plug. Now the screw doesn't adjust idle at all so I am starting to think that my AWS isn't functioning properly?
I know that I had a battery drain but I measured it today and it was 12v on the BTN fuse in the HAZARD and ROOM fuses. Going to start taking the BTN fuse out while not driving. I will post back with results of tomorrow drive.
Well as is my usual now I started the day trying to start her up to work. Fresh battery wouldn't start little spray in afm she starts up no problem. Idle at 500ish no change as warming up. On the way the boost gauge was working? Lastnight it wasn't. Drives so smooth. Only took her up to 4k with the shitty exhaust I have its so loud! Makes me nervous to take her any further Maybe I just need to get used to rotary?
To return home gave her a little more spray and again nice solid idle around 500. When I got home I wanted to set the TPS to 1vdc instead of the 1komh. I went to measure the volts and it was .92 from being set with ohm. I than set it to around 1vdc and went through the sweep a few times nice and gradual. Let it slam shut a few time and it held solid. Now onto the problem with the BAC. I again tested with battery and it clicks. When the key is on I don't hear a click when I place the connecter on. I am getting 12ish v out of the plug. Now the screw doesn't adjust idle at all so I am starting to think that my AWS isn't functioning properly?
I know that I had a battery drain but I measured it today and it was 12v on the BTN fuse in the HAZARD and ROOM fuses. Going to start taking the BTN fuse out while not driving. I will post back with results of tomorrow drive.
05-03-14, 11:14 AM
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wankeler
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Well another small update for now..
My coolant has been going somewhere and no smoke on startup had me confused. Wednesday morning brought my car blowing coolant out the fill neck cap. So I guess when I sealed up the rest of the plumbing the stant cap The PO replaced it with blew out. So another order from mazda has a new fill cap and tstat on there way because well I might as well while im there.
Other than that when I realized I was low I filled and as my idle with spray was 500 and rose to a nice solid 750. So im getting somewhere with this and it feels great.
My coolant has been going somewhere and no smoke on startup had me confused. Wednesday morning brought my car blowing coolant out the fill neck cap. So I guess when I sealed up the rest of the plumbing the stant cap The PO replaced it with blew out. So another order from mazda has a new fill cap and tstat on there way because well I might as well while im there.
Other than that when I realized I was low I filled and as my idle with spray was 500 and rose to a nice solid 750. So im getting somewhere with this and it feels great.
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