Well I won't know what the issue is with the coolant and oil until I get home from work today. But seeing how this was the reason I did the rebuild in the first place, I can see doing another rebuild in my future. If this engine is done for I will be in the market for a TII setup.

 

As for the leaning out, yes that is a wot.

 

There's not many places coolant and oil can mix in rotaries. Any reason to believe you may have made a mistake in the rebuild? Missed a bad spot in an iron on the oil sump side?

 

I can't see missing anything even though this was my first rotary build, I followed the Rotary Aviation DVD to a tee. The irons looked great and I have plenty of pictures of them showing condition. My question would have to be that if it was an issue with the rebuild, why would it take roughly 1,700 miles to show up?

After doing a little digging I am starting to think I may have a bad freeze plug maybe?
The engine did leak coolant into the oil before it was rebuilt and I never did determine exactly what the issue was. Although when I opened the keg up there wasn't any rust inside anything. I'm not to sure yet what the issue is, and I will not know much until I get the oil drained.

 

Sitting here at work thinking that it most likely is gas getting into the oil and not coolant. The car runs extremely rich at idle and is really hard to start between run times.

 

What did you see or find that made you think it was coolant?

 

What made me believe it was coolant right off the bat is the fact that it has happened before. That and the level the oil is at does not look like it could be caused by gas, or it is just a large amount of gas mixed into the oil. Also how thin the oil is and the weird greyish color it has when you wipe the dipstick onto a towel made me wonder if it was coolant or something else.

 

Coolant mixing with oil usually ends up a pretty milky brownish tan like chocolate milk. Does the oil have a strong smell of gas?

 

I didn't smell much like anything but oil last night when I checked it. But the car had flooded pretty fierce earlier in the day and that could be why gas could be in the oil. I will update in about 3 hours with whatever I find out about the oil situation.

I also think that if coolant was in the oil I would see some kind of outcome from this happening. I have not seen any steam or anything unusual so hopefully it isn't coolant. Let's just say I would be really happy if it was only gas haha.

But like I said, I will update as soon as I find out a little more info on the situation. I couldn't do much last night because when I checked the oil it was already almost 9 P.M.

 

It's gas.

 

Coolant and gas maybe? Smelled like gas but 2 quarts of gas!?

 

Doesn't look like coolant but two quarts of gas seems hard to imagine. If it is gas it should stink of gas pretty bad.

 

It definitely smelt pretty fierce of gasoline.

 

So I've changed the oil and found a lot of gasoline in it. My guess is that because the car floods so often I am leaking on almost every startup. I will be purchasing a FPR in the near future to hopefully prevent this from happening. I do have a Walbro 255 pump in now with the stock rail mounted FRP which I think is a little old and in need of some upgrading. Also I am on the hunt for some kind of ignition amplifier or even a good set of coils as mine are as old as the car, I feel ignition breakup in the higher RPMs and overall have a weak spark. If anyone knows a good source for coils please let me know.

 

I know you had your injectors "rebuilt" but basically all they can do is clean and put new orings on them it's possible you have one that leaks on shutdowns and bleeds the rail pressure through the injector.

Maybe let it sit a few hours or overnight after driving and then pull a plug on each rotor and crank it with the ignition disabled see if it spits up a bunch of gas.

Could be the source of your flooding issues also if your compression isn't a problem.

You are on the stock ecu with stock sized injectors?

 

Yes I am on the stock ECU with stock injectors. When I had my injectors sent out they had to replace one that was flowing so bad it could not be repaired. I have yet to check compression because I have yet to purchase a decent compression tester. I have been thinking it was injector related but I'm not sure. If I start the car in the mornings after it has set all night long it will fire up without an issue. But when it comes to hot starts it does not like to fire and normally floods.

*the injectors were rebuilt and flow tested locally by a reputable technician.*

To remedy this for now I basically will cut fuel before I turn the the ignition to the off position and when I turn the car over, I will crank for a few seconds then flip the fuel back on.

 

Surprise coolant leak!!! Started the day off kind of sick and was asked to move the car from the driveway. As soon as I shut it off I see this...








So I'm in the market for an S4 N/A water pump housing I guess. Mine was stripped out from the previous owner and I have sealing issues.

 

How damaged is the housing? One of the bolts is stripped off in it? A helicoil might be an option.

 

The hole where to bolt goes needs to be retapped. I will probably go that route so I can drill and tap the housing for my coolant temp gauge.

 

Thermostat housing leak has been fixed and the car is back on the road.
Still looking for an S4 N/A water pump housing though, I would like to drill and tap for a coolant sensor as well as stud it to make things easier in the future.

 

Boom!!!

Heater Core leak!! Today when I get home I will be capping the heater core lines due to mine finally taking a crap and sprung a leak (somewhere between the firewall and the core) I noticed a puddle in my driveway right below the transmission bellhousing luckily before I took her out for a drive.

Fixed one coolant issue, possibly gained pressure and created another issue.

 

Coming from the evaporator drain? The air box is actually pretty easy to remove if you wanted to replace it.

 

I thought about replacing it but decided to bypass for now. I don't really use heat at all in the car and have never had fogging issues due to the fact that I don't even have windows in the car.

 

I honestly do not know where the leak is coming from at the moment. I just noticed it after I shut the car down Saturday evening. Looks to me that it is coming from somewhere around the firewall area though and I will not know much until later this evening. Hopefully it is the heater core and not something else. Although I don't think it could be much else.

 

Does the na have the coolant o rings in the lower manifold still? When my turbo leaked from the coolant o ring it dripped off from the back by the bell housing. Having not owned an NA I'm not sure off the top of my head if it still has them. Also the coolant hose on the top of the rear iron?

May as well check it over good first and bee sure before you bypass it for no reason. Also easier to find it before spilling coolant all over from doing the core bypass.