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With any luck you'll get that all figured out soon. Need to get rid of emission crap on mine as well. How did it run going to your house?
She ran like a champ! I was toying around a little bit with my buddy in a BRZ haha. Plenty peppy and with the TB mod I feel a better throttle response. Overall she runs really well without the vacuum issues.
Well the rebuild has about 100 miles on it now and I love it! My only problem is that I went with the Atkins Rotary Main Pulley and that was a mistake. The car does not like having heat, lights and the stereo on at the same time so I will have to fix this issue. I put the BAC valve back on and hardly noticed a difference with or without it (yes I cleaned and tested it). Also I seem to have s sticky throttle body or possibly even the throttle cable itself? hell, maybe even the pedal is sticking. The car will idle fine, right around 1200 RPMs and then I will grab the pedal and pull it towards me and the idle drops down to about 750. I will be looking at it this weekend and figuring out exactly what the issue is.
But the car runs great! And the streetport has a noticeable amount of power over the stockport which makes me smile
She wouldn't start on me after turning her off and then back on 5 minutes later but that's to be expected I believe.
Overall I am happy with this build and cannot wait to dump some more money into her!
The fd alternator was one of the best things I did to my s5 turbo.
I am in the market for an FD alternator but have been low on funds due to the holidays. My question is will just this and the underdrive pulley fix my issues? I was thinking it wouldn't due to the fact that the pulleys would still be the same size.
Haha I know what you mean... I bought it without really doing much research and later found out it was underdriven. I will probably be buying a stock diameter pulley along with the FD alternator in the near future. It sucks having to 2 foot it when the heat, lights and stereo are on in the mornings.
So after putting nearly 200 miles on the engine I have decided that I do not like my underdrive pulley at all and will be going back to stock. So if anyone is in the market for a dual belt Atkins Rotary main pulley it is now up for grabs.
Other than that the engine runs fine with decent AFRs. This weekend I will be doing some front end work and going over everything with a fine tooth comb.
On another note, does anyone know how I should go about rebuilding my manual steering rack? I bought it for $150 and it has some play. What would you recommend doing to tighten it up a bit? I still have my power steering rack for the vert which has the good ratio and was thinking about depowering it and throwing it in instead. So many things, so little time.
So I am on my way into work this morning and just cruising along..... All of the sudden I get some sort of fuel cut or ignition issue. This didn't happen until I hit about 3500 RPMs in 3rd gear, maybe even any gear. But when this happens the RPMs drop and the car shuts off, I cannot even blip the throttle to bring it back. It happened twice within 30 minutes of driving. I have clean the tank, replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump and all fuel lines when I rebuilt the motor.
Maybe I am having some sort of ignition problem? Maybe a clogged fuel filter due to premix?
If anyone has any useful information to help me out with this issues please feel free to chime in.
Without seeing it happen it's hard to say but double check your grounds for the ecu and main cables it's not uncommon for things to get wonky in the rpm range the secondary injectors kick on if your grounds aren't good. Does it rev fine in lower gears? What kind of fuel pump did you use? Require any splicing?
Without seeing it happen it's hard to say but double check your grounds for the ecu and main cables it's not uncommon for things to get wonky in the rpm range the secondary injectors kick on if your grounds aren't good. Does it rev fine in lower gears? What kind of fuel pump did you use? Require any splicing?
I used a walhbro 255 and it did not require any splicing. I've gone over all of the grounds when I did the rebuild and this just started happening today. The car revs fine up until about 3rd gears and the it won't go past 4,000 RPMs. Once I let off the gas at this point to switch to another gear the car will die even if I give it gas.
When it does it does all the electrical still seem normal just the engine stalls?
I may have missed if you mentioned exhaust prior but if it still has oem cats then plugging could cause issues but probably not the stalling like you are experiencing generally just a lack of power or inability to rev.
I have seen plugged exhausts cause stalling but intermittently stalling not reliable like you seem to get.
When it does it does all the electrical still seem normal just the engine stalls?
I may have missed if you mentioned exhaust prior but if it still has oem cats then plugging could cause issues but probably not the stalling like you are experiencing generally just a lack of power or inability to rev.
I have seen plugged exhausts cause stalling but intermittently stalling not reliable like you seem to get.
Well the exhaust is an RB header to pre silencer and basically straigh piped all the way back. All of the electrical seems fine when it happens, no lights dim and I have no power loss. I know I need to change the plugs though, that could have something to do with it. I just fixed a fuel leak, would a fuel leak cause any of these issues?
Well the plugs are pretty foul and now she won't idle unless I keep my foot on the gas.
I will have to look around once I have time and see if I can figure it out. After looking around the engine bay I noticed a new oil leak though haha. I will have to check and see if I have any sort of fuel leak tonight if I have time.
So I found my issue.... All four plugs are fouled, I haven't changed them since I rebuilt the motor though. Now they have been replaced and we will see how she runs in about 40 minutes.
*Update*
So the other day I drove the car to and from work without a problem, the engine now has about 500 miles on it. But yesterday morning I decided to drive Rhonda to work in the morning and she wouldn't start. I could tell right away she wasn't getting fuel and decided to wait until I got home to address the issue. So I get home, grab my multimeter and start testing voltage at the pump. Turns out the pump isn't receiving power, but the connector is. So me and a buddy pull the pump out and test it. The pump works fine so I put it back in, after that I tested my switch which worked fine as well. So we reinstalled the pump and tried to fire Rhonda up....She started without any issues... So Saturday I will be taking the pump out again and cleaning the connections to seee of this eliminates my issue. Also I finally set my TPS the correct way and she runs sooooo much better! This weekend I will also be doing a compression test to see where she's at after the rebuild and partial break-in. I will report back with numbers as soon as I have them.
I am looking for an FD alternator also, if anyone reading this has one for sale please message me!
Also the engine does not like any electrical load and when the E-fan kicks in the car will almost die and sometimes does die. I have reinstalled the BAC Valve as I have read multiple threads on how important the BAC Valve is. So my question is how do you adjust the BAC Valve on an S4 N/A?
So it's been about 850 miles since the rebuild and I am finally seeing some decent AFRs at idle.
Today on my way into work she was reading a steady 13.7:1 at idle, which is the best it has been so far.
Today when I get home I will be replacing the alternator with a rewound S4 140 amp to hopefully stop my power drain when the fan kicks on.
It's intended that it runs a rich idle. You won't see stoich idle like you would in a piston engine unless it's not going into idle mode like it should.
Well the idle being near 13:1 satisfies me. But now I have other problems... I have been having electric fan issues as of late, the connection wasn't good and the car started to overheat. I never let it get above half way on the gauge though. In the picture I am about to post you will see brown and green coming out of the thermostat housing. This concerns me a little bit because my problem before the rebuild was coolant in the oil. I am hoping I don't have oil in the coolant now...
Likely just a **** gasket for why it's leaking. Did you check both sides of the metal for pitting? Pull the cap when it's cold and take a peek looking for tanish sludge. If you reused any of your old system you will likely still have oil residue in the coolant so don't assume it's game over if you see a little but if everything is new from the previous engine then you probably shouldn't see any.
The dark color in the leaking coolant could be rust particles coming from the engine block. Tough to say without seeing it in person.
If you have the mechanical fan and shroud and it's in decent shape just reuse them until you can get an alternator that is capable of running a good electric fan set up from an oem vehicle of some kind. Trying to make any e fan worth a damn work on the stock alternator is a bad idea and only asking for problems.
Noticed it looked like your air pump is gone so if you do switch to the mechanical fan for now you will need to use 2 belts or the water pump will slip with the extra load from the fan.
Likely just a **** gasket for why it's leaking. Did you check both sides of the metal for pitting? Pull the cap when it's cold and take a peek looking for tanish sludge. If you reused any of your old system you will likely still have oil residue in the coolant so don't assume it's game over if you see a little but if everything is new from the previous engine then you probably shouldn't see any.
The dark color in the leaking coolant could be rust particles coming from the engine block. Tough to say without seeing it in person.
If you have the mechanical fan and shroud and it's in decent shape just reuse them until you can get an alternator that is capable of running a good electric fan set up from an oem vehicle of some kind. Trying to make any e fan worth a damn work on the stock alternator is a bad idea and only asking for problems.
Well I am leaning toward a shitty gasket at this point and am in the process of replacing it. As for the alternator, I have just installed a 130 amp rewound s4 alternator and it has drastically improved the electrical system. Right now I am boiling the t stat to see if it works and if it does I will be reinstalling it with a new gasket. Hopefully that is all the issue is and we will see here soon.
12-21-15, 09:55 PM
Update.
