rhd getaway vehicle
11-07-12, 01:17 AM
#1
Xiango
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rhd getaway vehicle
hey guys finally finished with my rhd conversion decided it was time to post to show everybody what hard work and dedication can do. i began by stripping the whole interior, once i got done with that i started on the dash took me about a week to get it all off. when i finished with i took off the steering wheel and all the pedals along with all the brackets that hold all those things together. next i took off the a/c and the power steering along with the bracket that holds it in place.
i got the rhd rack and pinion for 70 bucks on ebay which i think is a sweet deal. i wasnt planning on leaving the pkwer steering or the ac so i think the conversion was goin to be fairly easier than moving and relocating everything. i think the hardest part was going to be aligning all the proper holes on the right but i took some time and came up with a pretty good idea, i copied all the holes by putting a piece of pizza cardboard behind the firewall i. the engine compartment and tracing the holes from inside the car with a permanent marker.
i cut out the holes with a knife and had my holes all properly aligned with the same distances form each other and same size i kinda knew where the all the holes would go, i started with the hole for the steering wheel because i thought if i could get that one i would be able to take it from there. once i marked and drilled out the first hole i placed the cardboard over it marked the
rest of the ohter holes and got to work. i got everything within a few centimeters of the correct size and reded the holes that were too small to the proper size luckily i didnt mess up too much so tha wAsnt too bad. after that i staryed by placing the bracket that holds the pedals in place when i got that in i went after the gas pedal didnt have too much trouble getting in place but what did worry me was if the stock lhd gas line would reach to the right or if was goin to have to huy the oem rhd one.
luckily i think mazda didnt want to put differet brackets for holding the lhd and rhd in place. since the brake booster and clutxh changed places i went out and bought new brakes lines and cut and fitted them to the new locations. what took the longest to do wasnt gettin the lines to go where they needed it wasnt doing the double flares on the end of lines they came out crooked with my first few attempts but with a little practice i got i got it to work in the end. when i finished with the brake lines i used the same line for the clutch and bent it the other so it would still fit. the next step was to get all the plugs reconnected so i went out bought some electrical wire cut the wiring harness for the switch and instrument cluster im not gonna have any other electrical components ie radio , ac etc. so i didnt have to cut much took me about two days to finish that.
finally finished that up today and tried to start the car after a few attempts it fired up i wad so happy when i heard the engine turn over it meant i connected wverything right. since i disconnected both the brakes and the clutch i had to bleed them both i started with the clutch finished that in about ten mins and then went on to the brakes. here is where i really sad part in my story my brake booster must have gotten messed up in the installation so im stuck at the moment until i either fix it or buy a new one and that folks is the end for now until i get more done till next time
i got the rhd rack and pinion for 70 bucks on ebay which i think is a sweet deal. i wasnt planning on leaving the pkwer steering or the ac so i think the conversion was goin to be fairly easier than moving and relocating everything. i think the hardest part was going to be aligning all the proper holes on the right but i took some time and came up with a pretty good idea, i copied all the holes by putting a piece of pizza cardboard behind the firewall i. the engine compartment and tracing the holes from inside the car with a permanent marker.
i cut out the holes with a knife and had my holes all properly aligned with the same distances form each other and same size i kinda knew where the all the holes would go, i started with the hole for the steering wheel because i thought if i could get that one i would be able to take it from there. once i marked and drilled out the first hole i placed the cardboard over it marked the
rest of the ohter holes and got to work. i got everything within a few centimeters of the correct size and reded the holes that were too small to the proper size luckily i didnt mess up too much so tha wAsnt too bad. after that i staryed by placing the bracket that holds the pedals in place when i got that in i went after the gas pedal didnt have too much trouble getting in place but what did worry me was if the stock lhd gas line would reach to the right or if was goin to have to huy the oem rhd one.
luckily i think mazda didnt want to put differet brackets for holding the lhd and rhd in place. since the brake booster and clutxh changed places i went out and bought new brakes lines and cut and fitted them to the new locations. what took the longest to do wasnt gettin the lines to go where they needed it wasnt doing the double flares on the end of lines they came out crooked with my first few attempts but with a little practice i got i got it to work in the end. when i finished with the brake lines i used the same line for the clutch and bent it the other so it would still fit. the next step was to get all the plugs reconnected so i went out bought some electrical wire cut the wiring harness for the switch and instrument cluster im not gonna have any other electrical components ie radio , ac etc. so i didnt have to cut much took me about two days to finish that.
finally finished that up today and tried to start the car after a few attempts it fired up i wad so happy when i heard the engine turn over it meant i connected wverything right. since i disconnected both the brakes and the clutch i had to bleed them both i started with the clutch finished that in about ten mins and then went on to the brakes. here is where i really sad part in my story my brake booster must have gotten messed up in the installation so im stuck at the moment until i either fix it or buy a new one and that folks is the end for now until i get more done till next time
Last edited by Alex Rodriguez; 11-23-12 at 09:08 PM. Reason: more pics
11-07-12, 01:26 AM
#3
Xiango
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the conversion is finished the brake part came afterward when i started nleeding the brakes but yea im stuck im trying to post pics but i cant from my iphone
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11-09-12, 10:17 PM
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Xiango
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today i decided to take out the brake booster and master brake cylinder to inspect them
i wanted to check where it was leaking from when i tried bleeding the brakes
i wanted to check where it was leaking from when i tried bleeding the brakes
11-10-12, 09:46 AM
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prob the easiest route to go with for a rhd swap in my opinion since your gonna get most of the parts you need pnly thing uou might have to buy or make would be a rear brake line as for the firewall you should have no major problems as long as you line it up right once you cut both and are installing the one you need
11-10-12, 09:13 PM
#19
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i bled the brakes today but i ran into a problem i seem to have a lesk somewhere because the pedsl will get hard when im pumping but if i let go for about a minute or so it goes bland again im goin to finishe checking the lines tomorrow see if i have any luck
11-10-12, 10:36 PM
#20
Have someone apply pedal and hold it under pressure.
If you have an external leak, you'll find it.
Did you separate the MC from the booster?
It's entirely possible that the rear seal on on the cylinder is leaking into the booster. It's also possible that an internal seal in the cylinder is allowing bypass, in which case you may not see any external evidence.
If you have an external leak, you'll find it.
Did you separate the MC from the booster?
It's entirely possible that the rear seal on on the cylinder is leaking into the booster. It's also possible that an internal seal in the cylinder is allowing bypass, in which case you may not see any external evidence.
11-11-12, 12:14 PM
#21
There is also a 1 way valve on the stock hose for the Booster. If that is not there it will not hold pressure. Did you remove the stock hose? It is also directional I am not sure if it point at the booster or away.
I would find the stock hose with the valve as in your pics it seems to be replaced.
I would find the stock hose with the valve as in your pics it seems to be replaced.
