When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've had that same experience. I was able to revive some fog lights quite easily using essentially the same process as you. The FTPs didn't turn out as good. I ended up buying new and the difference was amazing. I think I have some before, after and comparison to new shots in my restoration thread.
I've had that same experience. I was able to revive some fog lights quite easily using essentially the same process as you. The FTPs didn't turn out as good. I ended up buying new and the difference was amazing. I think I have some before, after and comparison to new shots in my restoration thread.
That's rad that others are putting a breath of life into these aging parts,
It's important that these things look good hahaha
Top is before, middle is before polish, and bottom 2 are fresh from Mazda.
Turned out good as new after a final buffing
Hella optilux bulbs, needed to grind down the long posts to fit properly in the socket and the round base makes it annoying to secure in the housing.
Wouldn't recommend..however it does look sexy when the light hits it just right lol
Last edited by Projectfeint; Jan 17, 2016 at 03:14 AM.
Tail light harness is no good with all the exposed wiring and half the bulbs being burnt out.
Going to wrap it in electrical tape and might heatshrink the ends so the tape doesn't come undone.
Hood prop has torn rubber coating, missing pivot bushing, and a broken holding clip.
Going to re-rubberize the end of it (lol) just like factory but not as thick.
Bolted down this err bolt onto a small wrench for an easier time on the wire wheel
Laid on that coating thiiiick to get that rough finish. Experimenting with painted gold hardware along with a new pivot bushing and holder clip
Still missing one spacer-bushing, gives me an excuse to hit the junkyard lol
Done! Moving on
Last edited by Projectfeint; Jan 18, 2016 at 12:21 PM.
Standard h4 on left, rize japan led h4 on right.
No need for a ballast or modification on the fc
Just plug and play. Had to bend the bracket that
holds the bulb in like I did with the fogs but no big deal at all
I will get some better pictures showing the cutoff
when I get the other headlight in. Ordered just one
on accident hahaha. At least got a before and after.
Now that I had my fun tossing on random parts, Im going to focus on the front end of the car and work my way to the back.
Strut tower bars that came on the car. The holes that were cut in the rear towers is so bad it almost made me consider not buying the car, more on that later. Still deciding on keeping the front bar for better steering feel, the rear has to go for sure!
My car had a rear bar when I bought it and they didn't do all that great of a job cutting the holes. Luckily, I found some really great stock carpet to cover it back up. The bar I think is still tucked in my garage behind the water heater.
My car had a rear bar when I bought it and they didn't do all that great of a job cutting the holes. Luckily, I found some really great stock carpet to cover it back up. The bar I think is still tucked in my garage behind the water heater.
Hopefully your sheetmetal is in better condition hahaha
Ground the ears off the rear plates and moved the rear bar to the front, won't fit till I go carb so it goes on the wall for now.
Sending the plates and a ton of metal off the front to get powdercoat
Test fitted the ssr wheels with a 25mm spacer
Might go with a very small slip on spacer if it needs it but I think it should be fine barebones.
Next up is battery relocation and powder coating some engine bay + interior pieces
Finally got my other raybrig housing in! No mods neccesary with the exception of bending the bulb holder like my fogs.
Bulb wasn't seated completely so it looks a little off lol but you get the idea
Top: stock halogen
Middle: raybrig h4 (came with housings)
Bottom: rize japan h4 led
Going to brainstorm some battery relocation ideas I've had floating around in my head for a while. Already have the battery and the mount, just need all the little things like cables, hardware, terminals, distribution block, etc
As for the rear shock tower, I found this post while trying to google a picture for the explanation I would have type out:
Originally Posted by Tofuman FC3S
OK, so here's the deal. I got a MazdaSpeed front bar, and initialy was gonna go with a MazdaSpeed rear tower bar aswell, but when I studied the MazdaSpeed design, I decided I don't like the way it squeezes around the upper portion of the tower, the speaker/rear seat mount. I then decided to go for the Cusco rear bar, since it mounts flatter and uses the same type of tube for the brace as the MazdaSpeed front one uses. MazdaSpeed front has anodized alloy strut mounts though, and my Cusco rear one uses painted steel for the mounts. For these typed of braces you need to cut a hole in the speaker plating, or just remove it completely. I decided to save a few grams of weight by removing it:
You can drill out most spot welds with a special bit, but some need a bit of agression.
As for the rear shock tower, I found this post while trying to google a picture for the explanation I would have type out:
That is a very solid idea (no pun intended).
Love how much roomier it is around those areas however that would mean no more rear speakers or rear seats.
You should see the cusco 3 point rear bar, similar to the one you posted but it ties into the floor.
Im curious if the triangulation makes any difference... Hmmm
Moving on
