Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Hey whats up I am a "virgin" when it comes to Rx7's so bare with me. I have been out of the car game for some time now, since 2008, but had to get into the game again so I could have a "get-away" from my prelaw crap

I have many pics so I hope you enjoy my build.......

Car 1987 Mazda Rx7 Sport---

This is when I first picked her up---Last Thursday---May 17, 2012




Pretty stock....

Now Lets Begin

Started putting her on the jack-stands outside my shop as soon as I got her home










Started taking out the interior









Ill post more pics up later.....getting pretty late now....I've got over 70 so far ahhaha

LMK what you think so far...thanks

invert

iTrader: (1)

Working fast! What's your plans on this?

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Here some more LOL.....

Dash removal...






















more up soon

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

remove these three!!!






More up soon!!!

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

My initial plan was to drift....then I realized I like to baby my cars....

so decided to put it as my "show" car

Redoing everything!!!!
stripping down to soda blast...fix the body....paint inside and out(Thinking black with green sparkle....trying have a black and green theme..)...powder coating the arms, sub frame, etc. etc....

but still unknown....

thanks for looking

mx-3_4evr

iTrader: (3)

If you want to baby it, keep it stock lol! Welcome the club! I'm building mine for drifting We should meet up sometime!

-Antonio

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Stock....hahaha but yea if I can find time we should....I'm probably going to be buying another fc real soon just to use as a parts car that I'll end setting up for drift...

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

SO...Does anyone know what this is?



Here is more pics from earlier this week....its been raining for a couple days now so haven't really had the time to go out and work on her















Just preparing to drop the rear and remove subframe

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Another question...
There was s hose that connected to one of the cats....it led back to the motor...does anyone know what this is and if I need to have it on? Thanks


Well...thats all for now....more to come soon!

boosted414

iTrader: (30)

The eletronic piece under the passenger seat is the sensor for the "OVERHEAT EXHAUST" idiot light. The hose that connects to the cat is from the air pump. If you are keeping the stock cat you need it or you will end up plugging it. If you are goin to remove the cat (keep in mind local emissions) then you dont need the hose or the air pump

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Thanks man!!! in Minnesota I don't have to worry about emissions

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

here is more pics from today's work (May 24, 2012)

After the rain




Not sure how this water got in....couldn't find where the hatch leaked...
















Thats all for today....

boosted414

iTrader: (30)

if the drain holes in the hatch area are clogged they tend to push water up and over the seal. they also could no longer be coming out the bottom of the car and draining water into the compact spare area

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Thanks Ill look into that as soon as I get time. I am thinking they are probably clogged

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Not much done since the last time, but yea....here is what I have done...








just started ordering parts for her so even though I've got a few months before I'll be able to put them on Ill update it as they come in....

1: corksport Radiator
2: ST front and rear sway bars
3: corksport lugs (x20) [forgot to mention I purchased a 5x114.3 conversion a few weeks back for a couple bills....4 lug is whack]

nothing special, but I am trying to figure out the set-up i want on suspension and trying to decide if I should buy an after market LSD or just get the Turbo II rear....not really sure the benefit of the Turbo II rear


My To Do List:

1: Mid June- take the fc (completely stripped down to the frame) to get soda and sand blasted
2: Powder coat subframe, arms, etc.
3: find a body kit or lip kit before I take it to the paint/body shop
4: Mid July-August- take the blasted shell/parts to the body shop (fix all rust/dents etc)
5: Fullbody coilovers---Leaning towards KIDO racing, but if anyone has suggestions please let me know
6: Brake upgrade-looking at drilled and slotted and green pads
7:Flush engine bay bolt kit
8: Seats and seat rails-bucket looking towards BRIDE
9: takata green harnesses
10: walbro fuel pump
11: braided fuel line
12: braided brake lines
13: Samco radiator hoses
14: Bushing kit: trying to get all bushings replaced
15: black carpet
16: Circle Taillights
17: Electric fan kit
18: Optima Battery
19: Megan Tie rod ends
20: Rear camber arm rods
21: S5TII Complete Swap--I know so far down on my list!!!
22: Custom Driveshaft from the driveshaft shop
23: Convert everything to POWER!!! LOL Power Locks, windows etc.
24: oil cooler-relocation kit
25: Rims- either looking at the ADVAN RG-D 17x9.5 w/+25mm offset not entirely sure how well they will fit...
26: DTSS Eliminator Kit

Yea this is a long *** list, but it will get done sooner or later in no particular order

I like to wire-tuck and brake-tuck so I am trying to figure out how or where I place wires and lines....

Ill keep you posted as time goes on....Thanks for looking

pontiackid

iTrader: (3)

The water could very well be from a person in the vehicle. Especially when people get in the vehicle with snow on their boots. It soaks in and is trapped tightly by the foam and padding and insulation.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Lots of work to do....

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Keep your manual windows and locks. When power accessories fail, and it will fail, you'll regret it. I wish my car had the manual stuff. It's so easy to roll a damn window down.

Good luck with the project!

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

HAHAH you know what...that is a pretty good idea

I've heard there is a lot of problems with the power windows so I probably will just end up saving the money

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

JUST A LITTLE UPDATE....Still in the process of removing everything...and school has been keeping me busy





REMOVING THESE TONIGHT WHEN MY DAD COMES OVER





started to remove the engine bay crap

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Here is the 5 lug I got....there are damages to the 5 lug so I am hoping I can get the seller to pay for what needs to be replaced blah



trying to decide the type of rotors I am going to go with...any suggestions would be nice...

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

This is what I got done tonight..slowly but surely





THE BAD NEWS





found a little spot rusted thru...Not good, but it will get cut out and welded from my body guy....there is also a little on the frame that seemed to be rusted thru, but all that crap will be off when its soda blasted and sand blasted....and fixed

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

anyone have any advice on how to get these bolts off??? Ive tried PB blaster....breaker bars blah blah blah...still nothing..







anyways....

dropped the gas tank


I'll have more pics up later...I just havent had the time to upload them yet. I started removing the brake/fuel lines from under the car to the front then next week if I can get my hoise I'll be removing the engine/tranny etc etc.
I will also be removing the front subframe to get it ready to powder coat. long process, but it will get done sometime ahahah

blame

i had good luck with a beefy electric impact gun the first time i pulled them off. i made sure to get some anti-seize on them before putting them back on and it made the world of difference the second time i pulled them off.

i also found it helpful to remove the caliper/rotor/dust shield bolts, and spin the dust shield around a bit for easier access

best of luck, those dtss bolts are a bit grumpy

-sean

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

I have an impact (air)....That still does not seem to budge the stupid bolts....Someone suggested I heat them up with a hand torch and then use a crayon to melt the wax into the threads...

anyone hear of that before?