bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

I would always read about how so and so found a TII for $500 bucks, good engine. Someone else would get a beautiful vert for a few hundred with a leaking intake. Numerous lucky finds fill these and other forums. I always wondered, "I must not be looking hard enough".

Alas, I have found my lucky find. A 10th Anniversary Edition Turbo II. Fair mileage, 122K. Fair exterior, couple of bangs, no biggies. And a dirty, but very powerful, engine. So wheres the good part??? $400 bucks from an impound lot 3 blocks from where I've lived for the last 21 years.

It sat there for 2 years!!! No key, though. I took a little drive down to the local Mazda Dealership and got a key made for $8 bucks. Back home with a new battery, the Beast was awoken with a mighty growl!!!

After a couple of days of baby-ing, I started my list of Phase 1. This will include fixing all oil leaks, replacing worn parts, and removing most things I see as unneccesary.

Phase 1:

1. Replace Oil pan Gasket (RB)
2. " Oil cooler lines (SS Braided)
3. " O-rings under oil filter-stand
4. " Alternator
5. " both motor mounts (completely broken)
6. " rearend bushing (same as above)
7. " Sparks/Wires (NGK)
8. " o2 sensor/fuel filter (RP)
9. Flush Rad, Rust Inhibitor, and new thermostat
10. Remove Airpump, ACV, EGR, Split air pipe. Apply 3 blockoff plates.
11. Remove PS
12. Move battery to passenger bin.
13. Fab TID, apply APEXi power intake, fab intake filter adapter
14. Change Tranny and Rearend Fluid
15. Check timing/adjust TPS
16. APEXi BOV
17. Check timing

So far, I have removed the airpump/ACV/muffler and installed the EGR and ACV blockoff plates. PS is still on the way out. Oil Pan gasket has arrived. SS oil cooler lines need to be picked up. Motor mounts have been found, as with the rearend bushing. Alternator is being rebuilt. APEXi power intake is on order. Also the adapter for the intake has been built. Battery box is being built. Wires for battery are also on order. There are minor things that will get powdercoated throughout the Beast. Two rims have been recoated so far.

Phase 2:

1. FCD
2. APEXi Turbo Timer
3. Walboro Pump and Rewire
4. Dual Gauge Pod on A-Pillar (Boost, Water Temp)
5. Shim Thermowax Pellet, install RP underdrive pulley

As always, Im looking to my fellow rotory enthusiast for guidence and alternate ideas. All comments are welcome, as are other preventative maintenence modifications. Phases 3 and 4 will follow soon as this thread is already long enough. Another reason I posted this is to possibly rekindle someones search for "that lucky find". If I can find one, Im sure you can too. (My vert was $5259 with 148k miles)

Thanks a bunch guys!!!

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

More Pics.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Yet more pics. Updates soon.

1SxyRXy

lucky bastard, why remove the P/S, i say leave it in, it does nothing removing it besids save some room, i would leave it in, but thats me. i would put something more useful on the A pillar than a water temp gague, sense you already have one,get a wideband 02 sensor, and then build a 3 gauge pod and put them under the head unit, thats my .02 cent tho. but other than that a very nice find

NZConvertible

Ignorng the double-up, these two should've been at the top of the list, not the bottom. Make sure the engine's heathly and in tune before throwing mods at it.

Spend you money on stuff thats needed instead. Your water-cooled turbo does not need to be cooled down at shutdown unless you're silly enough to be boosting immediatley beforehand.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

what a great find...

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Your right NZ, these are important and should be higher in the list. The only reason why the timing check is so low in the list is that, at the moment, there are no fluids in the engine. All have been drained, so, all oil problems need to be fixed first as do the alt, intake, coolant, fuel filter, o2 sensor, and sparks wires, THEN I will fill the oil, and actually turn the engine back on. Then I believe I can check/adjust the timing. As for the TPS, fc3spro.com says that "if stock cold start system is still intact, engine must be warmed-up before checking TPS resistance".

Sorry about the double-up. 8-P

Good point about the turbo timer. Thanks, that saves me $130 and makes me a more responsible driver.

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

Nice find. Looks like a lot of fun.

turbo80cid

welcome to the 10th ann. club
now you have to learn the hand shake

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

^^^thats hott, super clean too

sub9lulu

iTrader: (7)

omg ... i want one ....

turbo80cid

Thanks, it still needs some work but I'm almost done.
Wheels & tires
Tune Microtech
Corner balance
and some small things

I see that you are in Houston, maybe we will meet someday.
I haven’t attended an RX-7 club meeting in a long time but I plan to get back into it this summer.

turbo80cid

few more pic's

I'm selling the Apexi N1 cat back if you want it.
$350

autopilot

Nice find. Good for you!

Pitlab77

aww man. Lucky. I have been looking for a clean non ragged out TII in Houston for so long. And a 10AE in particular. If you see another share the wealth ;-)

turbo80cid

I'll keep a look out for you.
I'm on the north side. (Woodlands)

drewl

can i have your triangle dash vents?

and my 10AE had normal-looking seats. what's up with those ones?

10AEturboII

very nice find. I wish I found my 10th AE for that price. I paid 10 times that LOL

turbo80cid

looks like vert seats.

Zeta-Gouki

very nice find

Icemark

Yeah that is what I was thinking:


too bad it has S5 vert seats

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Not as bad as the original's. I replaced them since the original owner had a huge *** and must have weighed a good 280lbs. I would have loved to keep them but they really looked like crap. So I looked to my other vert...BAM...almost as good as new with that great Mazda-***-Grip.

Side note: Picked up the SS Oil Coller lines today. Can't beat $85.

Pitlab77

thanks

turbo80cid

sorry but those are not 10th ann. seats either.

turbo80cid

best picture I could find.....not my car.