bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Holy crap!!! I didnt even know what they really looked like. I guess the owner had a really big *** then or didnt know how to take care of them. 3rd set of seats in a car with 122k miles...hmmmmmmmmmmmm.

drft_180sx

im sorry for the off topic. but what springs are you using turbo20cid?? that drop looks nice, mayb a bit too low for nyc though....

drft_180sx

BTW, NICE FIND....wonder when ill get my nice find

turbo80cid

Ground Control Coil over kit with Ground Control Camber/Caster Plates & KYB AGX struts.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

***UPDATE***

Car has been moved to the front now. Both motor mounts have been replaced as well as the brackets that connect the mounts to the engine irons. Oil pan gasket has been installed, and oil cooler lines have been installed. PS has been completely removed. Rims have tires and are mounted. 3 major things until motor can actually turn on: Battery in bin, alternator, intake system.

Those bolts on the driver side motor bracket are TOUGH. Took a 17mm wrench and a 5 ft breaker bar. WHHEEWWW!!! Pics to follow this week. A couple more weeks and were off to the dyno!!!

Side Note: When you tell the tire shop guys not to scratch the rims, tell them in spanish too, ***** DROPPED A RIM!!! AAAGGGHHHHHHH!!! At least it was on the backside.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Go to the next on!!!

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

OK, so heres the new news.

My daily driver, a 90 Vert, is now in a coma. The engine isnt blown but, a couple of broken MOP lines and lack of water pump ANYWHERE in Houston on a Saturday, have caused this car to be placed out of commision for a little while. Since Im now working 7-12's I needed a car the next day. So Needing a few more things on the 10th AE, I got it running that night.

Last of Phase 1 included, replacing the alternator, the rear-end bushing, Sparks/Wires, O2 sensor/fuel filter, and flushing the Rad and getting a new termostat. Others items not done yet included moving the battery to the passenger bin, Fabing the TID, and applying the APEXi Power Intake, changing the tranny and diff fluid, checking the timing/adjusting the TPS, and the BOV.

Obviously all this couldnt have been done in one night. So I did reinstall the battery in the stock location, Fabbed a TID and applied a SUPER RICER INTAKE FILTER, and the fun part, installing a 90 NA Alternator on an 88 TII. It all worked and I drove the car the next day.

As of today, I have replaced the rear-end bushing (not that hard), flushed the Rad (want new thermostat), checked the Timing and TPS, and routed the stock BOV into the TID. I have purchased the sparks/wires, o2 sensor/fuel filter, and slave and master cylinders (JIC because clutch feels very different from my vert).

Driving for a couple of days has reveiled a couple of little things that were unexpected, need new starter, replaced leaking heater hose, and last and worsely...low oil pressure at idle. From what ive searched, this is very common and is USUALLY the front seal behind the front cover. I know its not the oil pickup since I cleaned it whene applying the oil pan. Thats all I can eliminate so far. FYI, at idle, Oil PSI will dwindle to ZERO, from 1000rpm to 4000rpm under WOT, it'll hit 40 psi, after 4500rpms, it will start to fall to 30 psi and remain there till redline.

I am a bit wery of removing the front cover, mostly since my window of oppourtunity is only about 12 hours, to remove, fix, and replace. This excludes sleeping, eating, and the other one.

A FCD is on order since I think thats the fuel cut im feeling from the increased boost from the intake. Plans to apply exhaust and other go-fast mods are all on hold until I can assure myself this engine is in tip-top shape. Until then I will cruise it to work and back. I still will get the dual gauge pod with Boost and (Now) Oil Pressure gauges.

Other than that, she feels great and has some great handling ability. After I get off of 7-12's (sometime next month) I think I will attempt at the front cover removal. But it will be performed in my head until I can recite it off of memory. I have at least a month to learn everything posted about it.

Guess this is why it was $400.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Back again for another try.

More news:

1. There was a great fuel leak somewhere under the intake manifold. Just so happened that all four injectors where leaking and the PD. After a very simple explaination of the banjo bolt idea, I quickly purchased a new PD, along with 4 injector o-rings, 4 injector insulators, and 4 injector grommets, and a LIM to UIM gasket. After putting it all back together, THE FUEL LEAK WAS GONE!!! One point for me and my buddy Alan.

2. So after driving the car for about 4 days, I get a crazy buzzing from the idiots lights. Whoda known, -Colant-. After further trouble shooting and diagnostics, we come to the "wonderful" solution that the O-ring in between the LIM and engine was leaking. Hmmmmm, so take the intercooler, throttle-body, UIM, LIM, entire intake, downpipe, and turbo off to get to this little GD o-ring. So we figure since the turbo is going to be off might as well port it. Also purchased new LIM to engine gasket, 2 o-rings, and turbo gasket. Also we figured since the oil metering lines are coming out, might as we get some new ones, but not wanting to put plastic ones back in, we opted for 1/8th" ID teflon stainless steal braided lines. These took 4 days to find in Houston. So we put it all back together. Another point for us.

Side Notes: We ported the wastegate to 32mm, and welded on a SS washer. Works great but now since I'm not creeping, the car is a little slower. :-D. We thought there was some kind of boost leak since I'm only seeing 4 psi, but there are no intake leaks and the car has a beautiful idle at 740 rpms. Searching on this wonderful site has reveiled a possible culprit: a weak 17 year old wastegate spring.

Part of the Vac rack was removed and the caps that were capping off those lines were just moved farther down the rack. All new vac lines were used. The vacuum line distribution manifold for the oil mettering lines broke during removal, so we fabbed up a new one.

With only 4 psi, she dynoed at 171.9 rwhp. Thats with no AC, PS, emissions crap. Also a custom TID W/HKS intake filter, and a custom 2.5" DP and stock main cat, Y-pipe and mufflers. Fuel mods include a Walbro pump, FCD, and an APEXi A-AFC tuned to a slightly rich 13.2 AFR at WOT at 6800rpms. Another point for us. This car also has 123K miles on the original motor. A mazda compression tester has reveiled unbelievable compression in BOTH rotors. 105psi in the front rotor, and (get this) 107psi in the rear rotor.

Sorry this is soooo long, but alot has happened in the last month. There is now a dual gauge pod with boost and oil psi gauges.

Next big thing is the front cover removal, including getting a TII alternator, RD underdrive pulley, custom AC only bracket, and another oil pan gasket, while I got it off.

Now she sits. Quiet as a school girl giggling behind the bushes, waiting with her poison for the other school children. Rotory power will prevail.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Some Pics

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

I would been pissed if some dumb **** dropped a rim. That's a really great find though. A near running AE for $400. I still have to wait my turn on the "find an amazing deal" wagon. Hope to hear more good things about the car. Sucks that you're finding a lot of new problems with the car, but like you said that's prolly why it was $400 bucks. Oh that's not the AE shifter or shift boot either. No big though. Pretty awsome the badges were there too. Can't wait to see the results when shes finished My AE is in my vb garage if you want to see it. I took my white wheels off :P Prefer black anyways. Good luck with your car man.

turbo80cid

Man I wish I had your ambition. My 10th is so close to being done but I just can’t seem to finish it.

Looking good
I still hope to see it one of these days at a club get together.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Oh sorry, Alan caught that I didnt mention the fuel pump rewire we did. Yes, it worked the first time!!!

rs_1101

i hate you.

apreludem

"Side Note: When you tell the tire shop guys not to scratch the rims, tell them in spanish too, ***** DROPPED A RIM!!! AAAGGGHHHHHHH!!! At least it was on the backside."


LOL ....the spanish part was funny.

glad to see you got your car going man! =)

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

***News***

OK, so I recieved the XS manual boost controller in the mail the other day. Hehe, yeah we cranked it up too 10psi. THATS A HUGE DIFFERENCE FROM 4psi!!! LOL. Then I went to a little muffler shop and got them to install a little 3" pipe from the dp and had it exit by the passenger door. Boost went up, so we re-adjusted the MBC back down to 10psi.

I'm pretty sure with that straight pipe bolted up and the boost controller set to 10 psi, we were making way more than 200RWHP.

Well with the 2.5" downpipe and the stock exhaust bolted back up, I drove to work a little a few days and broke the front bushing on the rear-end again. Whatever anyone tells you, swapping this bushing is not a hard job to do. Just have a buddy around and a good jack.

Now something that I have never experienced or heard of anyone else experiencing is the front seal on the rear-end leaking my Lucas Fluid out. I ordered it from the dealership, which was about $4 cheaper than mazdatrix. Picked it up the next morning and went home for my task at hand. I drove 65 miles with a leaking seal in the diff and I'm sure the fluid level went down a bit, but I didn't here any abnormal noises from the diff. I think maybe the diff banging up and down might have accelerated the wear on the seal.

This seal change wasn't anywhere on the forum, so just refer to your FSM as I did. Remove the 4 nuts and bolts that hold the drive shaft to the companion flange. Then theres a big nut and a washer that need to come off. Yank the companion flange off and pry the seal out. Replacement is reverse. Make sure you use loctite!!!

A competition bushing is on order from mazdatrix.

So a new seal is in, I'm waiting for my bushing to arrive, and I still havent got all the little things for the front cover removal project. Besides the new alternator, RP Underdrive pulley, and custom ac only braket, we will also swap in a 80psi oil pressure regulator, a RB oil pan windage tray, and the thermowax pellet removal shaft from mazdatrix.

But wait John, theres more.

The car didn't want to start the other day while it was already warmed up. I thought it might be the TPS since I knew it has a small pit in it between 1.9k ohms and 2.1k ohms. We swapped another TPS and the car still idled funny and still wont start when already warmed up. It will turn on if I give it a little gas, though. Searching has shown that 99% of the time that this has been documented, the culprit has been leaking injectors. Oh well, might as well get 4 brand new 720cc's. Until then, drive to work and back.

This is getting fun!!!

P.S. Fishing out that little piece of plastic inside the drivers side door key hole is a great way to spend an afternoon.

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

Ill post my 2 A.E.'s My last thread got moved to the lounge also the first one is an 87 T2

Good luck with the restoration, Im not trying to highjack

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

***Update***

The front cover project is complete. We, Alan and I, replaced the front cover gasket, main bolt o-ring and copper crush washer, thermowax pellet for a plug, and the front main seal. Most of the before mentioned seals or gaskets were leaking. Our main goal for removing the front cover was the little o-ring that was blowing by oil and causing a low oil pressure reading.

We also installed a RP underdrive pulley, a RB dual alternator pulley, RB street upgraded oil pressure regulator, RB oil pan baffle, and 2 new oil pan gaskets. A couple of gatorback belts and everything was spinning back to life. My custom AC only bracket turned out nicely, and frees up plenty of room.

To the coolant system, we installed a new Mazda thermostat, New Mazda radiator cap and dumb cap, Mazda upper and lower radiator hoses (with new clamps). A bottle of Redline's Water Wetter and a newly painted water pump housing complement the new cleanlyness of the engine bay.

So, at the moment, oil pressure is high, there are no oil leaks, and the engine bay is much cleaner.

Note: A new motor mount was needed for the drivers side. The guys at MAZ-MAX saved the day on 4th of July weekend. Since we were there, I picked up a couple of hoses that go on top of the UIM, around the BAC. Idle is, once again, rock solid at 16lbs vacuum.

The Mazdatrix oil psi and temp adapter, under the oil filter pedestal, went in nicely. Its a great product if you have 20 mins to spare.

I also picked up a set of Falken Tires. This has been one of the most impressive upgrades to this car yet.

Im holding off on installing the SS clutch line. There are still a number of things that need to be addressed with the 10th AE. The next phase will be the redesign of the exhaust. I'm ready to order the 3" DP from RB, all new engine to exhaust manifold gaskets, manifold to turbo gaskets, and turbo to DP gaskets, followed by a straight 3" pipe finishing with a very clean gold APEXi NI muffler. The exhaust manifold will have the twin scroll removed and an EGT probe installed.

The following phase will be the parrallel fuel system with dual mechanical gauges in the engine bay, electronic gauge in the center console, all SS lines, new 720cc injectors, Aeromotive FPR, and all Earls fittings.

Irrelevent to any phase, is the acquiring of the PLX devices wideband O2 sensor controller with wireless data logging.

The AE is definitly in the high 13's now. Still stock motor, stock intercooler, injectors. Still complete interior sans a radio.

And the project continues...

CyborgRyu

iTrader: (8)

Damn, you move fast. I bet as I'm typing this message, you've already completed another chunk of work today.

Nice find.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

I was just going to point out, I havent seen it mentioned, but why did you order a oil pan gasket? Mazda uses a 1/2" bead of RTV from the factory, so does every engine builder out there. Dont waste your time installing something thats going to leak.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

I'm sorry, but none of my oil pan gaskets have ever leaked.

turbo80cid

RTV is the way to go. The thermal expansion of the different metals of the rotor housings and the end plates will reek havoc on a gasket.
But if it works who cares.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Pics...

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Ok, its been a while. In the recent weeks the car has been pushed to the back burner.

There are a couple of new mods. I threw out the stock injectors, and went with 720cc primaries and 890cc secondaries. Installing the new injector clips (availiable at Autozone) and installing the 10 ohm resistors (availiable at Radio Shack), went as planned. Mated with my new Rtek7 1.7 ECU, and fine tuned with the S-AFC, the car isn't stalling and is idleing well.

Some new meat over the stock rims allows for much higher launches, while the stock clutch is still my limiting factor in drag racing. I have had a couple of good launches at 6k rpms, but it sounds like there are a couple of bushings in the drivetrain that are begging to be replaced.

The Dp is here and yet to be installed. I haven't ordered the muffler yet.

As for the para-rail fuel system, I've added a marren pulsation damper to each rail. This is for future support.

The car has yet to be sent back to the track for new numbers, but the time is nearing.

Dyno results are also soon to be posted, as soon as I can get a clutch that will hold.

The pages keep turning, stock turbo, stock intercooler (not for long), stock clutch and flywheel. This list of stock stuff is getting smaller, but still stock motor. 129,xxx miles, daily driven.

bcool

Be careful w/ your fuel around this area, we dont want to see you going lean.

turbo80cid

At least your getting some work done on yours mines been sitting again. Maybe I will get to it this month.
We just started a big home improvement project that is costing mucho dinero!!
So my funds are limited right now, but I promise I will get to a Houston club meet someday.