NA 6 port half bridge build (zenki FC)
#1
NA 6 port half bridge build (zenki FC)
Hello all.. so my original motor blew a coolant seal in winter storage (-45 below @ 96,xxx) a few years ago.Im second owner bought with 70,002 miles with all records including all oil changes, gas fill ups, you name it. Even got the window sticker and dealership brochures.Chassis is tip top.A friend of mine gave me a new(used) motor. It lasted 800 miles some how... seized on start up.
This is my only pic of it now(My gf doesnt know how to work buttons)
This is how its suppose to be (exept this is an SE)
So now i have started a rebuild on the stock engine(I think she got mad at me for tossin in a used motor).
I should be able to re use the hard seals. But im not sure about 3 piece seals on a half bridge. Any insight? Im not sure they are even 3 piece but i am assuming so because its an S4
Im trying to run a stock ECU as judge ito has done it and I have seen how fast it was
(RIP) He ran to my knowledge stock premary inj @460cc and S4 turbo secondary@ 550cc
I have found no more info as of yet, I PM'd him tho
Mods so far i have done 20k miles on this setup to try to learn chassis dynamics at the limit of grip with low power
Tein drift spec coil overs
AWR lateral rods
AWR rear control arm sperical bearing
AWR camber links
Racing Beat DTSS eliminators
Poly bush A arms
Racing beat sway bar end links
AC/PS/smog delete (finding elec pw steering pump)
CAI off a ford diesel (still not enough airflow)
Hawk Hps+ pads (suck)
Short shifter
S5 tranny
S5 tails
Stuff im adding while i build(Already have, or free ish)
I have a full stainless dual roadrace setup im running paralell for about 113-118 inches( not sure how to tune this yet)
Mazdatrix heim joint endlinks
Mazdartix bumpsteer/angle tie rod ends
Tanabe Sustec strut bar
Stich weld
Chassis/engine harness diet
Sound deadening removal (keeping ugly maroon interior cus it makes my tornado grey silver look PIMP)
S5 bumpers and trim(keepin it black)
Shimmed LSD
Stuff Im adding later
Adjustable sway bars
Heim joint ball joints
Full cage and Huge diet
Fuel cell and auxiliaries to support
NA Rtek?
Gilmer belt drive
Crown Vics
Downforce?
80s Boatflake gunmetal paint?
K so enough of all that, gettin down to business.
Can i use stock ECU and 3 piece seals?
Would swtiching the direction of a worn in apex seal towards the center iron mess stuff up becuase it was bedded in rotating the opposite direction.
And finally does longer piping (118") boost low end or high RPM? Or shorter (113")
Im shooting for a Helmholtz resonance effect at around 5500 rpm
This is my only pic of it now(My gf doesnt know how to work buttons)
This is how its suppose to be (exept this is an SE)
So now i have started a rebuild on the stock engine(I think she got mad at me for tossin in a used motor).
I should be able to re use the hard seals. But im not sure about 3 piece seals on a half bridge. Any insight? Im not sure they are even 3 piece but i am assuming so because its an S4
Im trying to run a stock ECU as judge ito has done it and I have seen how fast it was
(RIP) He ran to my knowledge stock premary inj @460cc and S4 turbo secondary@ 550cc
I have found no more info as of yet, I PM'd him tho
Mods so far i have done 20k miles on this setup to try to learn chassis dynamics at the limit of grip with low power
Tein drift spec coil overs
AWR lateral rods
AWR rear control arm sperical bearing
AWR camber links
Racing Beat DTSS eliminators
Poly bush A arms
Racing beat sway bar end links
AC/PS/smog delete (finding elec pw steering pump)
CAI off a ford diesel (still not enough airflow)
Hawk Hps+ pads (suck)
Short shifter
S5 tranny
S5 tails
Stuff im adding while i build(Already have, or free ish)
I have a full stainless dual roadrace setup im running paralell for about 113-118 inches( not sure how to tune this yet)
Mazdatrix heim joint endlinks
Mazdartix bumpsteer/angle tie rod ends
Tanabe Sustec strut bar
Stich weld
Chassis/engine harness diet
Sound deadening removal (keeping ugly maroon interior cus it makes my tornado grey silver look PIMP)
S5 bumpers and trim(keepin it black)
Shimmed LSD
Stuff Im adding later
Adjustable sway bars
Heim joint ball joints
Full cage and Huge diet
Fuel cell and auxiliaries to support
NA Rtek?
Gilmer belt drive
Crown Vics
Downforce?
80s Boatflake gunmetal paint?
K so enough of all that, gettin down to business.
Can i use stock ECU and 3 piece seals?
Would swtiching the direction of a worn in apex seal towards the center iron mess stuff up becuase it was bedded in rotating the opposite direction.
And finally does longer piping (118") boost low end or high RPM? Or shorter (113")
Im shooting for a Helmholtz resonance effect at around 5500 rpm
#3
Engine, Not Motor
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Im trying to run a stock ECU as judge ito has done it and I have seen how fast it was
(RIP) He ran to my knowledge stock premary inj @460cc and S4 turbo secondary@ 550cc
(RIP) He ran to my knowledge stock premary inj @460cc and S4 turbo secondary@ 550cc
And finally does longer piping (118") boost low end or high RPM? Or shorter (113")
Im shooting for a Helmholtz resonance effect at around 5500 rpm
Im shooting for a Helmholtz resonance effect at around 5500 rpm
A bridged 6 port NA block isn't going to be making peak power anywhere near 5500 RPM. You're looking at around 8K to make peak power.
#4
Theoretically the stock ecu should work. The stock pump flows 1300cc/min .And the stock ecu only does 65% cycle right? So with 460x2 primaries and 550x2 secondaries, I ended up with 1313cc/min
I found a bunch of training manuals and competition manuals and found out 3 piece seals are only made to be run one direction anyways, so those are out. I ordered RA seals and I'm using new oem springs
My reasoning for the low rpm heimholtz effect is I wanna broad power band and kinda choke off the top end. 8000-9000 rpm. Not really choke it off but I know the intake manafold can't flow too well. So I'm shootin for the most usable power on the restrictive intake. Ya dig. Does anyone know what the stock intake is tuned for? Rpm wise. flow benched?
So I've been thinkin going in the middle with a 115" length twin 2" pipe to a RB road race pre silencer to a RB collector with 4" megaphone with a 3" reverse cone then 3" to the rear muff
Build started yesterday. Awwww yea
I found a bunch of training manuals and competition manuals and found out 3 piece seals are only made to be run one direction anyways, so those are out. I ordered RA seals and I'm using new oem springs
My reasoning for the low rpm heimholtz effect is I wanna broad power band and kinda choke off the top end. 8000-9000 rpm. Not really choke it off but I know the intake manafold can't flow too well. So I'm shootin for the most usable power on the restrictive intake. Ya dig. Does anyone know what the stock intake is tuned for? Rpm wise. flow benched?
So I've been thinkin going in the middle with a 115" length twin 2" pipe to a RB road race pre silencer to a RB collector with 4" megaphone with a 3" reverse cone then 3" to the rear muff
Build started yesterday. Awwww yea
#5
Engine, Not Motor
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Ironically, the one thing that the stock ECU will give you is the AFM. Tuning high overlap ports with an AFM is easier than speed density. Then again, you can run an AFM on most standalones (Megasquirt for sure).
My reasoning for the low rpm heimholtz effect is I wanna broad power band and kinda choke off the top end. 8000-9000 rpm. Not really choke it off but I know the intake manafold can't flow too well. So I'm shootin for the most usable power on the restrictive intake. Ya dig. Does anyone know what the stock intake is tuned for? Rpm wise. flow benched?
You want a broad powerband on an NA bridgeport? Not going to happen. No way, no how. You'll come onto power above 6000 RPM with a 6 port bridge, you'll really feel it around 7K, and it will carry above 9K if the intake was not a restriction.
So you have some choices. The easiest is to gut the dynamic chamber, basically tuning the intake manifold into a fixed long runner manifold. The runners are going to be a bit long but you'll at least not be fighting the DEI.
Another option is the TII intake. Still has DEI, but not the horsehoe like setup of the NA.
I'm not sure what you'd need for exhaust. You'll need to experiment with several sets of headers because for the most part you are in uncharted territory here with the stock intakes.
So I've been thinkin going in the middle with a 115" length twin 2" pipe to a RB road race pre silencer to a RB collector with 4" megaphone with a 3" reverse cone then 3" to the rear muff
I know you aren't going to want to hear this, but all this work is going to get you what, 250HP at the absolute most at the most upper end of the RPM range. You'll need to balance the engine to go further. And 8MPG around town, a seriously loud exhaust, and a car that is hard to start, doesn't idle well, bucks while driving and stinks. Then any new V6 Mustang is still going to be faster in a straight line than a narrow power band bridgeport NA FC.
#6
Hmm. I do have a s4 turbo intake, but in trying to keep the aux ports working with Atkins sleeves.
I realize its not ideal or practical or economical. It's just sounds fun.
And until I find a ecu I like I just want it to run.
I'd like to find something similar the Japanese freedom ecu which can almost tune itself and mainly I want altitude fuel/air correction.
Once I find something I like, ill go itb's and all that
Any idea where to weld up a emap sensor? Or back pressure pick up tube?
Thanks for the help Arron
I realize its not ideal or practical or economical. It's just sounds fun.
And until I find a ecu I like I just want it to run.
I'd like to find something similar the Japanese freedom ecu which can almost tune itself and mainly I want altitude fuel/air correction.
Once I find something I like, ill go itb's and all that
Any idea where to weld up a emap sensor? Or back pressure pick up tube?
Thanks for the help Arron
#7
Engine, Not Motor
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I'd like to find something similar the Japanese freedom ecu which can almost tune itself and mainly I want altitude fuel/air correction.
Any idea where to weld up a emap sensor? Or back pressure pick up tube?
I just noticed you have the same thread in the NA forum and they are giving you the same advice I am; not to do it.
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#8
Thanks i guess.. still doing it anyways. I never asked if i should do it or not. Its not like im doing a aux bridge port
And yes i know the stock ecu does altitude correction, thats why i want to use it
Update on the build
Parts are ordered, seized engine is out and apart and nothing is useable,
pulling apart the good engine tonight porting will start as soon as templates come.
Still trying to decide on RA classics or atkins. They would be the same price becuase i will be using oem springs
And yes i know the stock ecu does altitude correction, thats why i want to use it
Update on the build
Parts are ordered, seized engine is out and apart and nothing is useable,
pulling apart the good engine tonight porting will start as soon as templates come.
Still trying to decide on RA classics or atkins. They would be the same price becuase i will be using oem springs
#9
Engine, Not Motor
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The altitude correction on the stock ECU is irrelevant in this case because it will be running the bridgeport so poorly, a little AF and timing change due to altitude isn't going to make a difference.
#11
Part Hoarder
#12
destroy, rebuild, repeat
iTrader: (1)
op, the problem with bridgeports is they need a lot more fuel from idle to about 3000 rpm due to the overlap. they can run more lean from 3000 rpm and up, but then when it gets into its power band (5000+) you need to start dumping more fuel again. the key to getting the stock ecu to work is you have to try to get this response out of it, which is possible, but its going to take some work
you have these options to play with
1. fuel injector sizing
2. tune the s4 AFM by adjusting the spring tension
3. use in-line fuel injectcor resistors to adjust fuel injector response, sized appropriately
try using 550 primaries and 460 secondaries on the stock ecu. the 550's add the extra fuel needed below 3000rpm, but it will try to flood out everytime you try to start it, so fuel cut switch is required. if 550+460 ends up being too rich, try playing with the spring tension in the AFM to dial it back
you have these options to play with
1. fuel injector sizing
2. tune the s4 AFM by adjusting the spring tension
3. use in-line fuel injectcor resistors to adjust fuel injector response, sized appropriately
try using 550 primaries and 460 secondaries on the stock ecu. the 550's add the extra fuel needed below 3000rpm, but it will try to flood out everytime you try to start it, so fuel cut switch is required. if 550+460 ends up being too rich, try playing with the spring tension in the AFM to dial it back
#14
Old [Sch|F]ool
Note that I'm NOT running a 6 port anymore. The aux ports just close WAY TOO LATE to make any decent low end power, and then the ports are too restrictive to make high end power.
It's definitely a learning experience. I used to be able to use full throttle in 2nd gear, now more than 3/4 just blows the tires away below about 5000rpm. It's not the overlap that kills low end (the new engine actually has a lot MORE overlap) it's the intake closing point.
Most ECUs on the market these days support autotune. But it won't work on a bridgeport because the misfires induced by the charge dilution from the overlap confuse the wideband.
You can use autotune to an extent in the high load regions, but the cruise areas are where the magic has to happen, and autotune can't do that. At least, there aren't yet any autotunes that can detect lean misfire (or dilution induced lean misfire) and richen accordingly.
The backpressure tube should be about 12" from the exhaust port. Weld a stainless tube into each runner of the headers and extend each tube up to the firewall, then connect to your sender.
For the aux ports? If the exhaust has enough backpressure to work aux ports, it is too restrictive for any high overlap engine. RB sort of gets around this by aiming the tube into the exhaust flow, so the port sees velocity pressure and not static pressure.
#15
Just so every one know I am planning on using a stand alone. I'm just trying to get it to run to get it to another shop to park for the winter and do more work.
I'm trying to find one that I like still
And yea I did ask for advice, but I'm lookin for inspiration not discouragement.
I'm doing a baby bridge now I guess
My second motor I tore apart last night is perfect and I don't really wanna notch the housings
Maybe that will help a little not having as much overlap
And. I was talking about back pressure pick up for the aux port. And emap
I'm going to try to copy RB style but maybe have two to one tubes
Then I'm adding bungs for wide band and egt
Not much to to today I can't order more parts till tomorrow.
I need to talk to pineapple racing and see how big of exhaust port I need
I'm putting in turbo exhaust sleeves today and starting on exhaust.
Engine should be together soon I hope just waiting on parts now
And I still need to order templates from pineapple
And just so ya know my inspo was a judge Ito car, it had extended port 6port, full bridged with big primaries, stock ecu and crappy exhaust with 240 hp
I'm trying to find one that I like still
And yea I did ask for advice, but I'm lookin for inspiration not discouragement.
I'm doing a baby bridge now I guess
My second motor I tore apart last night is perfect and I don't really wanna notch the housings
Maybe that will help a little not having as much overlap
And. I was talking about back pressure pick up for the aux port. And emap
I'm going to try to copy RB style but maybe have two to one tubes
Then I'm adding bungs for wide band and egt
Not much to to today I can't order more parts till tomorrow.
I need to talk to pineapple racing and see how big of exhaust port I need
I'm putting in turbo exhaust sleeves today and starting on exhaust.
Engine should be together soon I hope just waiting on parts now
And I still need to order templates from pineapple
And just so ya know my inspo was a judge Ito car, it had extended port 6port, full bridged with big primaries, stock ecu and crappy exhaust with 240 hp
#17
Yea everything is mint.
Even the coolant seal failure was very minimal.
Side seals are within competition build specs,and they're stock.
A little step wear on the irons but within spec.
I forgot to order corner seals, feel kinda dumb cus I ordered corner seal plugs.
But new corner seals come with the plugs. I hafta call Atkins tomorrow and see if they sent it out er not and add corner seals.
Even the coolant seal failure was very minimal.
Side seals are within competition build specs,and they're stock.
A little step wear on the irons but within spec.
I forgot to order corner seals, feel kinda dumb cus I ordered corner seal plugs.
But new corner seals come with the plugs. I hafta call Atkins tomorrow and see if they sent it out er not and add corner seals.
#21
Old [Sch|F]ool
IMO there's no point to doing a small bridge... the drivability's the same, you just don't make as much power.
I used to play with small bridges, then I built one that was full port height and as large as I felt I could go without hurting the coolant seal integrity. Same drivability, more power.
I used to play with small bridges, then I built one that was full port height and as large as I felt I could go without hurting the coolant seal integrity. Same drivability, more power.
#22
So which one worked best. Large half bridge? I just talked to the guy at pineapple racing. He said a small full bridge would work better with the stock intake. I'm all conflustered now. Might just street port to get it to run eh. It's getting cold here in Montana and I'm swapping the motor outside
#23
Found something out I haven't heard about yet.
Attachment 478666
There's a spacer In the N/A housing that has to come out to fit a turbo exhaust sleeve in.
I think it was a S5 turbo housing I pulled the sleeve from,
and put into a S4 N/A housing, after the spacer came out.
Had a oh **** moment before I found that there was a spacer,
And it was removable
And if this is common knowledge, I blame my rotardedness... It's real
Attachment 478666
There's a spacer In the N/A housing that has to come out to fit a turbo exhaust sleeve in.
I think it was a S5 turbo housing I pulled the sleeve from,
and put into a S4 N/A housing, after the spacer came out.
Had a oh **** moment before I found that there was a spacer,
And it was removable
And if this is common knowledge, I blame my rotardedness... It's real