with the condition of the housings the engine should only take about 500 miles to break in at most, probably wasn't fully seated but it should be now.

 

its not seated. its a standing ovation

 

bad ***

 

put the body back on today and took it down for a quick rinse.



used zipties rated at 120# and got high centered on the kit at the wash.. embarrassing but happy the ties didnt snap off.

friend wants to come by on monday and make a small video with it but im not sure i want to go beat it up on these rough winter streets any more.

 

had a good weekend at the track. broke the engine but rotary evolution has it handled.
front iron cracked by the turbo oil feed line. other than that setback, car was hot. drove well. tons of power. tons of fireballs. tons of adoring fans. photos are still coming in but here are a couple pit photos.



gf photobombing in artsy b&w


curious kid


if we drain the oil, it wont come out of this hole anymore



engine crack


doing work at rotary evolution


noise machine convoy


government spys

 

lmao

 

the modded REW iron i will be using has a thick dowel casting, contemplating just machining the iron and matching the ports and calling it done and forgetting about the Ti studs through the front half. the REW iron is 3-4 times as durable as this thin cast B code 20B front iron even without tougher studs. good thing it's already cast up for the 20B modification.

priced the 3/8" titanium alloy rod at $120 for materials for 6 shorty 20B front studs but the studs through the front only cover the compression side which is still fine. it would be better to run full length titanium rods front to back but that would require full disassembly and block milling and 2-3 times the cost in materials. it should be fine with just the upgraded front iron and a check of the tune at this altitude. the rear iron is the next weak point but rarely fail if everything is copasetic with the EMS and engine. Ti studs from the rear would eliminate the rear iron weak point, but we can cross that bridge if we ever need to(2 rotor parts can be retrofitted with the exception of some obvious parts).

i will get started on modifiying the iron and getting pictures in the next few days. just slapping on the new iron will fix the front weakness and get it back up and going again.

too bad you didn't get a picture of the Bukkake kid..

 

wish i could find some photos of tire smoke. and next time i am going to put the kit on. guess i should make it look good so people will take photos

 

i'd still do something like fender wahers/screws with slide on nut inserts on the body. those zip ties looked like a royal pain in the ***.

make a 30 minute job into 2 minutes.

 

How much power is your car pushing? I like the look of your car, looks really good.

Rotary >Pistons

 

also would make the kit explode in to a hundred pieces if there wasnt something to give way like the zip tie. ive seen other mounting methods but they all seem to break the kits and i dont have money to replace body pieces every event. trust me, id love to get away from zip ties.

not sure. we will have more definite answers by the end of the month when we dyno it and get the tune sorted.

 

true, maybe a better way of hooking the zip ties up.

 

ive seen people put bolts in the fenders and bumpers then ziptie the shanks together but it doesnt really help for the middle part of the bumpers where the finesse needs to be.

 

had to do some updates to safety gear before vegas drift round two on march 30th


also after our little cracked engine mishap, we hatched a plan.










we replaced the front iron with an fd iron.
we then pinned the front rotor. didnt want to break open the rear if there was no need to and time was running out. we stayed up way past our bed times to get this car back together so i could go and try to break it again the following morning.

our fix was a huge success for the front rotor but we had missed a few hair line cracks in the fat iron and tried to make due with the time and resources we had.

it wasnt enough..

so now we are going full enchilada and pinning the rest of the engine and going with an external oiling setup for the engine.

its been frustrating but im not one to quit so easily.

one of only a few photos at the track

only got one run in before the wounds opened up and finished my day

 

been a busy year. not much time right now but i can still have some fun

 

after taking the summer off, its time to get back to work.
reinforced thick iron
solid dowels through whole engine.
now with more studs







there is an event local to me on the 16th and even though im working hard and being diligent, i may miss it.

time sucks..

 

boooooring

 

still thinking how we can make use of the pedestal design, sorry my brain is overloaded at the moment.

 

My buddy cracked the front iron in his FD right at the same spot, where the turbo oil feed bolts up. I wonder if this is a weak point or maybe a point that's allowed to flex a little too much with where the tension bolts are, it seems unlikely the hollow banjo bolt for the oil feed could take enough torque to crack the iron. We're going to have to replace the front iron as well obviously, and hopefully do it without a full rebuild..

I know your engine failed after replacing the iron, but that was another issue it seems. You think the re&re of just the front iron would have held up if not for the other issues?

Also I love the car man, I'd kill to see it in action some day

- sean

 

It cracks from the engine twisting. The dowel pins hollow and can flex, iron is brittle. The middle iron that I broke was damage that we had missed when the front iron broke. Solid dowel pins and studs reinforce the engine and keep it from flexing and cracking. Usually they break from engine detonation so tell your buddy to get his car on the dyno and get a good tune on it.

 

im sure i just pissed off a lot of people haha