PaperNinjaRotor

So let me catch you guys up. After selling my 1988 GXL and regretting it like no other I searched and searched for another RX-7. I found a 1988 T2 sitting behind some guys shop in mint condition. I stopped to talk to him about it. Turns out he V8 swapped it for a ford short block, but he had all of the rotary equipment, all of it, in his building. He said he didn't know anything about it and sold all of it to me for $300! So now in my building I have a full S4 turbo 2 drivetrain, wiring harnesses, and ECU. I plan on taking my time and swapping this all into a shell when I find one. Today I will be compression testing the engine out of the car. Im hoping for the best but I'm prepared for the worst, the guy i bought it from said that the guy he bought it from said it ran just fine when he parked it. I doubt it because its some serious He said She said BS, but I will find out today. I plan on strapping it to a pallet and powering the starter to do my test with a traditional compression tester. Although I do have some questions. Since I have the T2 harnesses i won't need to do any kind of modification to them correct? Just put them into the car. It seems like all of the build and swap threads I've seen that talk about this are using NA harnesses that are modified. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I purchased this as a way to gain a greater knowledge of these cars as I have resurrected two NA 13B's I'm ready to try my luck with a turbo engine. Thanks guys!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

in all honesty, if it looks like the engine is original you should just rebuild it before you put it into use. after 30 years even the USDM engines have been sitting for too long and running into the same issues that the JDM imports do.

you don't see many original engines running around out there anymore.

PaperNinjaRotor

thanks for the reply, and it looks like it has been rebuilt, based on having painted and polished housings and irons, I sprayed some degreaser on it, and it looks really nice actually, but I will most likely end up doing a rebuild regardless of compression because I want to go with a mild street port and why not do it now while the engine is not in a car.

PaperNinjaRotor

i think this is how photo bucket works on here but oh well if it doesn't, its just a picture of me with the intercooler after i got my stuff home. The first of many pictures once i figure out how to post pics on here from photo bucket

valley

iTrader: (1)

You probably already know most of this stuff so just ignore it if you do.

You have an S4 TII drive train and so long as the shell is also S4 TII you should have no problems just plugging things back up. If it isn't, then you'll likely need to spend some time with the FSM and/or someones swap thread.

That being said, I highly recommend giving the plugs and plug ends a once over before doing so. And by once over I mean looking at each. and. every. one. Buy a spray bottle of electronics cleaner and spray it into the connectors and let it leak out. There is how many years of just copper oxidation and random dust and other junk just sitting there? Nothing more annoying than having to pull things multiple times when you did have to.

If repairs need to be made, do them right. Multistranded copper wiring with adhesive backed shrink wrap over a twisted and soldered connection. Yes it sucks and takes time but that connection should then never be an issue.

I also recommend at least doing an inspection on the turbo. If something looks fishy, disassemble, clean, and reassemble. The engine I had had some very odd white goop all throughout it. I also highly recommend, if nothing else, sending the injectors off to be cleaned. Lean kills these engines and an uncapped fuel system has given the injectors a LOT of time to become clogged.

PaperNinjaRotor

Thank you for your response, I will sit down the next time I am home, should be this weekend, and go over the wiring a few times. Today I took the turbo off to port the wastegate, it didn't have any shaft play what so ever, and I have dealt with turbocharged piston engines, just never rotaries. It is still off of the engine because my welder decided to bite the dust, so I am going to get my friends this weekend to finish that job but I will clean it while it is off. As for the injectors, I am buying brand new 550 cc primaries and 720 cc secondaries, so they will not be a problem.

PaperNinjaRotor

After compression testing the engine yesterday I am pretty positive it had been rebuilt. It had 110+ on each Rotor face. So now I'm debating on not tearing the engine apart. What do you guys think?

valley

iTrader: (1)

Unless I suspected it was a ticking time bomb, regardless of the good compression, I wouldn't be able to convince myself to crack the keg. It seems like you got a pretty good deal and setup starting.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

assuming you used a piston engine compression tester with the valve out yes? 110 is not bad at all. both rotors on all six faces made 110?

Plans for the car? Power goals?

PaperNinjaRotor

yes i used a piston engine tester and yes each rotor tested at 110. Right now I am wanting to make between 350 and 400 horsepower. I am upgrading the turbo to a Garret to4 hybrid. Im not that far along in the build but I do already have all of that, Im shopping for injectors and block off plates right now.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

1000/2000 injectors will be super for that HP you are looking for.
I used that with a Garret t04s and Haltech.
made 357 at the wheels.(stock internals,FD upper on an s5 TII engine)

PaperNinjaRotor

I was looking at going 720cc primary and 1600cc secondary, so I can use rtek 2.1. I thought that would support my power goals but if it can't, I will gladly switch to haltech. This is by no means something that has to be done soon. Im taking my time. The last RX-7 I had was my daily, now I daily an Acura and it makes building a race car much easier haha. Also I was wondering what kind of power can the stock fuel rails support? much later on I'm going to want more power.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

turbo stock fuel rails and hard lines in the car can actually manage between 500-600whp with an aftermarket regulator.

PaperNinjaRotor

Oh wow thats impressive, I did not know that. After I decide on which injectors to buy, I will probably go ahead and order an aftermarket regulator. I am going to be out of town until monday, so I'm probably going to order a bunch of parts so I have something to come home to.