Erifx

I just got my 1987 RX-7. It's a non-turbo and the engine was rebuilt about 67,00 mile ago. I am trying to stay a head of repair. I am searching the threads for thing I can do to prevent and of course give me a little HP. Is there any thing you guy can suggest?

Pros:
- coilovers
- The Wankel engine (He he he wankel ) runs smooth
- interior is ok ( still need little work)
- Tires above 70% (Even the rear)
- next to no rust (only a little on underside)
- ect...


Cons:
- Paint needs to be finished
- dents removed
- Driver seat fixed
- Windshield Replaced
- Exhaust Fixed
- Clean up passing lens
- minor chips
- ect...

Contemplations:
- Premixing
- What air intake
- rats nest (removal or clean up)
- Electric fan
- Projectors
- Fog lights
- Extra gauges
-ect...


I call her Tsumi:

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to the club in MN. Picture no worky.

As for a few of you contemplations:

Air intake: NO. Car is equipped from the factory with a cold air system. Just buy a K & N drop in filter and call it a day.

Premixing: this... is going to be a decision only you can make. many people do it, many do not for all sorts of various reasons. One being the stock metering oil pump no longer works or was previously blocked off.

Electric Fan: Again... punching multiple points of view here. Is your factory belly pan, radiator shroud and clutch fan in place? Then leave it alone. on an NA, there is no point and and we already have wimpy alternators on an NA s4.

Rats nest: Both of my fc still have them and they have yet to produce a vacuum leak prompting me to remove it. I have a "aint broke, don't fix it" mentality with this engine. I will not be putting it back on the car when I get to putting my turbo engine in.

Fog Lights: depending in the manner you are going to mount them this could go a few ways.
One of which involves an S5 front bumper and crash bar with factory S5 fogs pigtails harness and switch. We do not have the wiring factory in the S4. I just happen to have 90% of this sitting in my garage.



Well, anyways, that is a decent place to start I suppose. I would do a tune up if you are unsure of when it was last performed. As for a little more performance, a Racing beat header or the entire exhaust for that matter sounds and works well. I am running a custom setup consisting of a RB streetable header with deleted pre-silencer, high flow cat, factory y pipe, and bosal aftermarket oem style replacements with chrome (stylish ) tips.


How many miles on the chassis?

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Listen to Phil!

I don't even use K&N, by the time you wash it 5-6 times, you'll end up buying a new one then, and it'll hardly part itself off (my bad). I use Wix air filters, about $10.99 from your favorite parts store.

Bosal ftw!

Had them on my old SE.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

A laudable goal and one relatively easily attained, although most would find it dirty, boring and decidedly unglamourous.

First step: Immediately forget about "mods/upgrades/improvements".
You don't really know what you have yet, so you're in no position to "make it better".

Second step: Assume that NONE of the prescribed maintenance has ever been done, because usually, it hasn't. Just figure that every system in the car is ready to fail.

Third step: Take it apart.
All of it (well, in your case, not the engine/transmission).

During this step only the brakes will be assumed to need rebuilding, so order caliper rebuild kits, pads, rotors and hoses (either braided steel or OEM rubber...your call) ahead of time. If you're thinking of upgrading the MC/booster now is the time (yeah, I'm violating Step One here, sorry).

A lot of this will never have been touched since leaving the factory and you can expect lots of frozen/broken fasteners, so have lots of Deep Creep or PB Blaster at the ready.
Basically, you'll be taking things apart, running taps/dies in all the capture nuts (there are over 90 6mm capture nuts in the engine bay alone), applying antiseize and bolting it back together.
Along the way, replace any rubber hose you see (lots on top of the fuel tank) but ignore suspension bushings unless they are falling apart ( typically, the front diff mount and trans mounts will be bad).

No need to paint anything (because you'll be going back later), just get it all as clean as you can.

Fluids will be changed at this stage also- the brakes, because you're rebuilding them but also the diff, which is much easier to fill on the ground than in situ.

Fix anything that's broken/missing or just cranky to remove.

Inside the car, strip it to bare metal (including the dash/HVAC), clean all the crap that's accumulated and carefully inspect the harness(es) for broken/frayed/cut wires.
Undo EVERY electrical connector you find and fill it with dielectric grease. This includes bulb sockets and you might as well wire brush and grease them before installing new bulbs.

Then put it all back together.

You are now intimately familiar with the entire car and have a chassis that is capable of being worked on without nasty surprises.

Now, drive it, evaluate the performance and figure out what you want it to be.
THAT'S when all the sexy, fun **** happens and it will go much, much easier since you've been in there before and laid the groundwork.

It is boring.
It is dirty.
When you're done, no one will oooh and aaah over your work.

But when you do decide to say, replace the rear bushings, you'll thank yourself when the exhaust isn't rusted in place and the subframe is on the ground in 45 minutes or so.

You can thank me then, too.

If you have some time, I documented this very process here.

Erifx

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Doesn't look like you'll have to spend much time on the paint.

Erifx

Lol its the other side I take more pics

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Track car= who cares?

Erifx

I well eventually fix the paint. right now I more interested in doing what you said before about cleaning the **** out of the car. but a little afraid to take off the dash. Where can I get new capture nuts? Last time I owned a 1985rx7 and a lot of the electrical connector broke. Is there some where I can but more or replacements?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

You don't need new capture nuts, they're welded in. Just run a tap through them to clean the threads.

There's nothing to fear with the dash, it's a bit ungainly but not all that tough to take out.
Figure an hour or so the first time, 20-30 minutes thereafter.

Resign yourself to some broken plastic, it either already has or will soon and there's not much you can do about it. Plan on fixing it.

A great percentage of the connectors are completely generic and not at all specific to the FC, so replacements are available in a junkyard with a lot of Japanese cars. Fords of that era use the same stuff (Taurus and Miata share the same gauge cluster connectors, for instance).

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Clokker. You silly bitch.

Erifx

Car is still doing great


Completed 2 things:

- Exhaust fixed (Sounds so much better}
- Shifter bushing are in ( going to be putting in the Neutral spring tomarrow)
- Buffed hood

Found bad:

- Leaking coilover (Driver Rear)
- Blown front speakers
- Think I need new oil in the shifter
- or need a transmission oil change (3rd is a little hard to get in at higher rpm)

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

take a peak at your clutch slave and master. They like to leak

Erifx

I well check this out today.

Erifx

Good replacement for the vents on top of the dash and the one by the windshield. Maybe something not so brittle?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Best bet is Mazda, if even they still have any.

Erifx

I was trying to find any other Web sites that have that type of thing.

Erifx

Also I would like any Ideas to get ready for winter. I want to make sure this car well start during colder weather.


- I have rhino lined the bottom.

- I am going to fill the open holes of the rails with construction foam.

- I am also going to give a fresh paint to all components exposed.

- I well be warming up the car before driving of coarse.

I had a 1985 rx7 and it started every time during winter so I am not really worried.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

"Warming up the car" benefits Exxon more than the car.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

invest in sand bags and chains. I was unlucky once and got caught in a snow storm in my red fc.... I had to park in a parking lot till traffic died down to get home. Once rolling it trucked along decent, but my red FC is fairly gutted and a super base model so it is light and slippery.

Find a MK4 jetta with a 2.slow engine for the winter. You will thank me later.

Erifx

I don't think mn let you use chains....Plus I have never used them.

As for updates one the car just got my neutral return spring in (that was not fun) and I am installing a back seat for my son. This next week hopefully I well be doing a fluid change on my transmission and my be an oil change.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Chains was a joke lol. Ever driven one of these in winter? let alone, OUR winters? I had my red FC out last year and it was in may if I recall and sunny 65* or so... then BAM!! Like 1 ft of snow came down while I was at work. The roads around my work are a parking lot at 5pm. I could literally clutch out and the rear tire was spinning.

Now, little traffic, light snow and the car is fun and not too bad. But we all know that is not what happened in Minnesnowta.

Others will disagree and say these are fine in winter with quality snow tires. That may be the case, but I rather park a dying breed of Japanese sports car for the winter and buy a $1000 beater with air bags, especially since you mention a son.

Erifx

I dont bring my son anywere that much in my car. I also just got a back seat where I can mount a car seat holder. I think in the month I have owned it I taken him once. My wife has a car for family driving. I had a 1985 and it did great in winter, but I could see in a foot of snow not making it vary well....at all

Erifx

So I seafoamed my car this weekend.

Erifx

update:

- I have changed my transmission and oil.

- I have been cleaning up the engine by a little.

Want to get done soon.

- Fuel system cleaning
- Grounding wire checks (If someone has any list of grounds that would be great)
- Air control mode not functioning (Motor or logicon, Don't know)