brag3006

Hi Guys!
I am planning out a 325-350 Horsepower build for my RX7 S5 TII. My goals are to build a reliable weekend car for spirited driving, and maybe an occasional track day. I don't intent to go above that for as long as I own the car. My build details are below. The car is mostly stock right now.

I am trying to figure out if I need any of the following: 1000cc/1600cc injectors, Fuel pressure regulator, After market fuel injector rails, CDI ignition, Aftermarket coils (e.g. IGN-1A), boost controller? (or anything else)

Build details:
- Engine: Stock 13BT, no porting (better low RPM power for city driving)
- Turbo: BNR Stage 2 or 3 (not sure which one - Fast response is important to me)

- Fuel pump: Denso pump from Rotary Power
- Injectors: 720cc all around
- ECU: Haltech PS1000 with Plug & Play harness, Conservative tune - maybe 10-12 PSI of Boost

- Sparkplugs: NGK #9 all around, Fresh NGK cables
- Oil: 80psi oil pressure regulator, Oil Pan Brace, Stock E-OMP + Premix, Solid Thermowax pellet

- Exhaust: Racing Beat Rev TII
- Intake: K&N cone filter, straight Turbo Inlet Duct, custom cold-air box
- BOV: Recirculated GReddy Type S

- V-mount: Koyo N-Flo, Izuzu NPR IC, Spal 3000 CFM fan (25 Amp), Custom frame and ducting, RE-Amemiya hood scoop vent
- Alternator: 120 Amp for E-fan

- Clutch: ACT Street/Strip, ACT street-lite flywheel
- Gauges: Boost, Water Temp, EGT

I intend to remove all emissions components, but keep A/C and Power Steering. Waterpump, OMP, suspension, drivetrain mounts, and brakes will be fully replaced or upgraded as well.

Does what I have above make sense? Is there anything that is off? Is there anything else I need?
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Love this forum... the threads here have helped me fix up / restore my car, and get it ready to start making some power.

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

One thing is for sure, do not use a CDI with the IGN-1A. they are smart coils and do not need them. Saves you some $

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

+ 1 on the above, you don’t use the IGN1A in conjunction with CDI. Honesty, both are overkill for what you want...I wouldn’t touch the coils for your goal.

same with the fuel rails...overkill. Just set the stock ones up in parallel.

a v-mount is cool, but again I think overkill. You’re at the point where an upgraded old school TMIC and/or A/I could meet your goal. The v-mount is good for a purpose built track car that NEEDS it, it is not good or necessary for a street car that may occasionally see track use.

Once the car reaches a certain point with mods it becomes a different animal, and even less enjoyable to drive and work on.

i did 310whp years ago on my old setup when I only had a hybrid turbo; it was a BNR stage 3. Many people have surpassed that with a stage 2, so I’m sure you could do it. Not sure how far you’re going to get on a “conservative” tune though. You have to push a hybrid pretty far to get close to the power you want.

I’d suggest modern parts whatever you decide on. Specifically the ECU and Injectors. They will make your experience a more pleasant one.

brag3006

Thank you guys - I will leave the ignition systems alone, and use the stock fuel rails.

Are there real drawbacks do installing a v-mount on a street car? I didn't know that this was the case (i just assumed that more cooling = good). Yeah, the v-mount is cool, and that's why I really started looking into it.

I don't know about any options for the upgraded topmount, other than the RE-Amemiya 1.5 intercooler. What is "A/I"? Alcohol injection?

I will do some research modern ECUs and Fuel Injectors to see how i can make this easy on myself. Would 720cc injectors all around be sufficient?

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Yes. V-mounts tend to overheat on street cars without airflow (think stoplights).

Nothing new, that's for sure. Old RE-A, Arc, HKS, etc. Ebay or the classified will turn something up every now and then, but you'll of course pay for it.

Yes. There was a thread years ago where a guy was using A/I with a stock TMIC and making power that previously was thought to require a FMIC.

I don't remember offhand if 720cc all around is enough. I think that should get you to ~300whp. But as I said, think "modern". Injector Dynamics do not make anything that small anymore, I think the smallest you'll get is 1050. A modern injector and modern ECU can give you the idle and driveability that you used to not get with older tech large injectors. Plus, you not only want headroom, but you would ideally want room to grow when your needs/goals change down the road.

You could always go used, if you're comfortable with that and confident you're not getting a fake.

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

Completely untrue, V mounts actually work very well on street cars. Like any setup there is still an e fan moving the air at idle and low speed. I have trouble getting my car up to 180 degrees when moving even on a hot day. It likes to hang out around 171-174, where the thermostat cracks open.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

It has to be a properly designed setup vmount with appropriate ducting/shrouding and sufficient fan. I've read (not personally experienced) many setups over the years having issues on a street car. The only vmount offering for the FC (which I'm aware of) which is any good, is the one built to order by Rotary Extreme. Perhaps you know of something else, but typically when people "build" a vmount for their FC, they're not doing themselves any favors with the design.