its hard to say which one will be faster, they truly drive like 2 different cars.
One raw and in your face, the other smooth and subdued.

I think the dyno will be in the turbo car's favor.
The other has the weight and torque advantage- tough call. LT1 car dynoed 326hp/360tq corrected btw.

I was putting the car away and when it was sitting sideways at my gate I should have taken a picture, it looked nice with a clear side shot.
Instead I pulled it in the driveway and took these, did not get the same effect- night pictures suck!
FTP lenses are not in becuase I have to take the bumper back off to paint it and change the lip.

Rims and tires are definitly needed, I have been on the prowl for a year trying to find something I like, and going
back and forth between 17's and 18's.

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2226-1/ni+001.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2229-1/ni+002.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2232-1/ni+003.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2235-1/ni+006.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2238-1/ni+010.jpg

What a nice build. I really like your UIM/LIM paint job. You have that whole black/grey theme through out the whole car, looks great.

If I read correctly, you're running custom piping to dual RB cans? No pre-silencer right? Either way, maybe when you're boosting i'd love to see a vid clip of it in action.

im running the Racing Beat REV TII stainless pre-silencer, and the REV TII stainless Y-pipe as well, that version of the y=pipe is shorter so I have custom pipes from there to the mufflers.

thanks for the compliments

You should sheet metal that gab between the fmic and the front bumper. It will help.

Wow.. Very nice. Congrats.

Where did you get your drilled pedals? The rubber on my stock set has about had it, and I'd like to put in a set like yours.

a member here used to make those pedals, he stopped along time ago- those were actually the very last set he had.
They call them "sleddriver" pedals.
I remember seeing another company that makes ones that look pretty much exactly like them, but the name is not coming to me right now.

revvin- I have a fiberglass and a aluminum piece to go on the radiator support- im waiting to paint the bumper before I install it.
Im also going to tie the undertray into the lip, clearing the air to the tray decreased my temps by 20 degrees on the highway.

Great Vert Man!! I have a vert too and planning on doing a N/A to turbo swap... Just wondering?? how much this all cost you???

if you factor in the rear end rebuild, trans rebuild, FD rotating assembly, new oil pump, stationary gears, porting, etc and so forth

I would used alot of new parts where I could, every thing else was rebuilt, so figuring all that probably in the $12k-$15k range

...wow so it did come out other places besides us so japan to or europe and thot us had turbo verts too?:scratch:

this is going to be long, it is my summery of my swap.


well we changed a few things in the engine compartment, by now im sure most of you have seen plenty of pictures of my engine bay floating around.
We got the ribbed pulley swap finished, in the end I ended up with 2 rotor cosmo main and water pump pulleys, a FD alternator pulley, I used a non-ps bracket from a TII which was modified so that it could line up with the main pulleys. On that is a FD AC compressor and a FD tensioner. Now all I have to do is have AC lines made, but I have all winter for that.

The mechanical OMP is in operation, we swapped out the S5 throttle body for a S4 one and using a rotary aviation adaptor I pump 2 stroke oil through the OMP lines, it works off mechanical linkage just as a S4 TII does. The main difference with using my set up and the OMP system is that the car now BURNS 2 STROKE oil, it no longer just pumps some motor oil, it now pumps 2 stroke oil that is meant to be burned. We get heavy traffic here sometimes, I did not want to sit in traffic with 2 stroke pumping out the exaust through the open roof.

I swapped out the HKS boost controller for a new Greddy profec-b- spec 2. Its a little complicated to set up because it does more then high boost and low boost, it allows you to adjust feed back, when to start the boost, and some other stuff which honestly I dont know much about yet as I just got back from test driving the car.

So now onto the car- it drives like it came from the factory. It idles, runs, steers, and operates as if it was a factory car. Its not too loud or annoying to drive at all. I swapped out the tired stock suspension for Racing Beat springs and KYB AGX adjustable shocks with new mounts. I have Tein coil overs in my other FC and I hate the ride.
I sent the car out for its alignment and everything is perfect. I did order new rear steer eliminator bushings and mazdatrix adjustable rear camber links as well to get the rear up to snuff.

So far I have only put a few hundred miles on the car because it seems like I am always changing something and only get to drive it a little on the weekends.

We dyno tuned the car to a VERY safe and conservative tune at 14lbs. We did initally have it up to about 18 lbs but I am not running that boost and did not get power pull numbers from 18lbs. I am now going to install my coolingmist kit so I can safely run 18lbs of boost- but I KNOW a turbo change is in order. I did not build the car to run this small turbo and now that the car is sorted out its larger turbo time with a GT35R as my current choice. I dont want the car to be a dyno queen and I know there are plenty of faster cars out there. I just want the car to run and drive responsive on the street.

The "3630cfm" electric fan cools the car right down and on the highway if I cruise along at 70mph nice and easy the car runs right at 180-185 with no fan on.
The alternator is keeping the voltage at 14volts+ sitting at a stop light with the headlights, electric fan, and stereo w/amp on.


Here are yet more pictures of the engine bay showing the pulleys and one over-all shot. I still have to put my mazdatrix strut bar on, I just had it sitting there to see if I liked the color or not.

Winter plans are body updates, I know I have to paint the front bumper, I have all S5 conversion parts for the car as well.

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2367-1/eng+004.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2382-1/lip2+011.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2373-1/lip2+004.jpg

I also changed out the tailights as well since those pictures, there is a thread in the 2nd gen pictures section

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2262-1/rj%20005.jpg

Wow, just wow. That's one clean conversion! That's one of the nicest paint jobs I've ever seen too, you should paint mine just like it :D

thanks, the paint job is 10 years old and was parked outside until 4 years ago.
Paint in the jambs and underhood is original.

Rob-

Nice finish to the write up.

Nice finish on the paint as well.

Did you shoot it yourself and if so, what kind of gun do you use, tip, psi, paint etc.

Thanks,

Jack

Probably the cleanest FC I have ever seen! Looks amazing man, fantastic job!

The car had 2 paint jobs in 2 years. The first paint job was the major one. I painted it myself, at the time I drove the car daily so I painted it when we closed up shop over christmas break.
I used to stop driving the car in the winter and put my jeep on the road instead, At the time I could not afford insurance on both vehicles so I drove the jeep over the winter which I also plowed snow with, come spring time I would take the jeep off the road and put the RX7 back.

What I did that year was take the car off the road in september and do all the bodywork and prime the car with DuPont URO primer.

The car then sat until december which allowed the bodywork to tighten up by heating and cooling off. I then block sanded the car and re-primed it.
I block sanded the car again and washed it, moved it into the shop blew it off and let it sit overnight to dry out some more.

Next day masked it and sprayed it with single stage black DuPont Imron that I slightly tinted to make it appear more black. At the time I used a DeVilbiss GTi HVLP gun and I had a prototype Millenium 2000 cap that DeVilbiss had given me to try which later became standard on the Gti gun, 65psi at the wall, 30 psi into the gun, 10 psi at the cap- pretty standard stuff.

I let the car sit a day then wetsanded and polished the car.

Driving the car everyday for the next 2 years a few things happened- one is I wanted to spray all the moldings, mirrors and trim which I had originally left unpainted. 2 other events happened- a guy at work backed into the door so I needed to re-paint that. I had also gone to dinner one night and the valet parker hit the OTHER side of the car into something and put a scratch down the side so I had to paint the fender and door on THAT side. Being the car was already painted I decided instead of just shooting 2 fenders, a door, and a bunch of trim why not just sand the car and re-shoot it all? MUCH easier the second time!

this is a picture I took with a 35mm camera, digital cameras were not easy to come by at the time- at least not on my budget. I rolled the car outside to take this picture after I was done with the paintjob. I have a bunch of print pictures somewhere of the whole job.

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/99-1/175f48f1c852.jpg

Had the car dyno tuned by Wayne aka Waynespeed, he is the dist. for Wolf computers and has many reliable high powered tunes to his credit.

We tuned it back on the 9th, but I just got the print out last night. Last night driving to get the printout I realized for the first time my factory tach falls off at higher RPM, I know at about 4200 on the tach the wolf was reading about 400-500 rpm LOWER.
Picking up the dyno sheets confirmed what I thought- originally we revved the car to what we thought was 7200RPM, turns out it was only 6150 RPM!

My rear alighment is way off right now and we are re-doing my pipes from the REV II y-pipe back to 2.5" from 2.25" so when thats done its back to the dyno to confirm the tune is clean to a real 7200RPM and with the exaust changes and the alighment not acting against the dyno.

Here are the 2 graphs, one does not show torque or RPM just peak HP but thats the 4th gear pull.


The 4th gear pull is the blue line, showing a peak of 280hp at what was 6153RPM. Not bad considering the small turbo and the fact we had 1000 rpm to go.

Motor is a street port S5TII turbo is a garrett t04b. A turbo change is already running through my head, I just wanted to get the swap done and sorted out first.

The second graph is a 5th gear pull so I guess that one wont count but it does show the engine RPM.

Some picts of getting it on the dyno and the graphs

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2394-1/dyno+005_001.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2397-1/dyno+001.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2400-1/dynolessrpm.JPG

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2403-1/dynorpm.JPG

fuel system, ecu upgrade, and hopefully turbo upgarde coming soon. hopefully rob will keep updating this thread

went back to the dyno tonight to tune the Wolf V500.
Wayne from Waynespeed worked his magic and played with the setting and we utilized the built in boost controller and even a shift light output from the Wolf. The wolf offers so much most people, including myself, do not realize what it can do when the right person is tuning it.

Big thanks to Roan, Steve, Marley, and anyone else im leaving out.
Im happy with the magic number of 400hp and about 285 ft lbs torque.
I have more graphs but I have to scan them, and its late and I need to go to sleep!

Im going to cross post this to my previous dyno thread and my other project thread.

if anyone cares enough check out my "winter projects" thread for many updates on my vert

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/whats-your-winter-projects-816764/

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/3245-1/scan.jpg

turbo upgrade?? :)

trouble maker!

Does the convertible have the same leg room as the turbo ii

I think a coupe will have a little more leg room

thanks


updated picture

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/3530-1/vs+002.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/3533-1/vs+005.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/3548-1/mats+004.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/3554-1/mats2+001.jpg

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/3266-1/bellmore+007.jpg

Wow.. No questions from me, I just want to say that you and everyone else who worked on the car did an amazing job. Very tasteful, very clean, and hopefully very fun for you to drive!

Nice job.

swapped out fuel pumps, bosch 044 pump intank, then re-tuning for e85.
Hoping to get safe boost up to 20lbs or so, thats when my small turbo will be useless anyhow.


Tried tuning on the dyno a few weeks ago but fuel pump was not keeping up, shouldn't be a problem now.

Calculations for E85 is that it requires roughly 30% more fuel. Supra TT pump is said to be good for 500hp in a rotary, so we were running out of fuel pressure with only 8lbs of boost or so, thats almost precise estimated at 350hp capacity for that pump in a E85 application.

You can see the difference in size alone- thats the supra pump in the backround

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/4779-1/fpump+001.jpg

Love this build, one of my favorite verts on the forum. I know this is a bump, but I removed A/C from my FC and have decided to put it back in, just curious why you decided to go with the FD A/C compressor? Is there any reason for choosing that over the FC compressor?

Any other updates with the vert?

I wanted a ribbed belt compressor not a v-belt
updates will be minor this year, re-tune for e85 but its really only going to put me back at my original number of 400hp, car was tuned 400hp@ 18lbs but I daily drove with 14.5-15lbs. I just want to get back to the 400 number with the clean burning e85 fuel. Lowered the front another 1/2" as well, but its not that noticeable

Great Build I know your having fun with your Vert. I have fun with mine when it wants to run right!!!

funny you say that, took both cars to cars and coffee sunday, first time Im driving the vert in like a month or two, and I go to leave and it wont start!

First thought it was a fuel issue , car was losing pressure when I cranked it. Thought the small piece of hose in the tank had split so I remove the pump and check it and its fine. Call up Waynespeed and he has me remove the computer from the kick panel so I can see the diagnostic light and we discover power to the computer was being cut off when I cranked it, so maybe my ignition switch is going out.

Went under the car, remove the small wire from the starter, jumped it with a screwdriver and it fired right up........... but yeah I was THAT guy who's car didnt want to start at a car meet.
This after earlier in the summer a FD launched itself into the water at the same meet up- not a good time for RX7s, lol

since this was bumped up- I did go back to the dyno after the fuel pump change and injectors were at 90% duty cycle and we still had more boost to go, so I have to swap out injectors.

Got these 2000s ( aka 2200s ) from Marren, hopefully get these in the next week or so and figure out my ignition switch issue and get back to the dyno just in time for the winter.

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/4946-1/2000+002.jpg

true HID headlights and led tails https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/lighting-upgrade-has-begun-5w-elef-led-959833/
seats https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/my-new-mazdaspeed-seats-856823/
carpet https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/black-carpet-swap-no-dash-removal-piece-cake-858226/

Wonderful build! What kind of fuel rails are you using?
(Maybe you had mentioned or displayed them, and I just didn't catch it.)

KG Parts rails

got some mods going on, re-tune on e85 so it required larger fuel pump and injectors, was maxing out the old pump and injectors.
Putting FD UIM on so IC piping needed to be modified. Got rid of some couplers replaced with a wiggins clamp. Didnt put any on the turbo side because most likely I will be swapping out the turbo and dont want to invest anymore money into it

Have to polish up the elbow, pipes, paint and do my thing on the UIM and the throttle body, should make for a nice change

supposed to get a little snow tomorrow glad the car has the best parking spot its ever had, safe and sound

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/5012-1/DSCN0779.JPG

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/5015-1/DSCN0783.JPG

Quite the company that car is keeping in that nice parking spot...

So what turbo is next?

I dont know, its really not needed the car is so perfectly balanced right now and drives like a factory car going into boost very easily.
I should be back at the 400hp number at about 18lbs when we get back to the dyno.


Figure if I am going to bother with another turbo it will have to be worth it and still spool easily without having to rev it over 6k to get the power- at least 500hp anymore then that I might end with a car thats no longer fun to drive and probably end up in jail

looking good Rob

Looking Very good! im curious as to why you wanted the new UIM?

Looking good dude!
Still cant remember about the fitment issues with the fuelrails with this manifold, its been over 3 years since i mounted them.. and i cut off everything on the uim i didn't need

The runners are more equal lenght and larger, also a slightly larger throttle body. This all aids in response :)
Looks better too IMO

thanks, Ill do you manifold proud

I have wanted it partially because of where the IAC motor is mounted, and for a change.
Now that see the new pipes I wish I had done it sooner.

if you cut everything off there would be no issues



Think the radiator will come out, want to chop that long fill neck off and thinking of converting to a braided radiator hose set up with an fittings

Youll Never get old :lol:. Pure awesomeness!. I was thinking of the same thing with my radiator but, i have yet to see a AN as bigg as stock radiator hose. Or a AN fittings ID as big as the oem/aftermarket radiator inlet/outlet ID. I seen up to -24 and maybe it just looks smaller i:dunno:. Teach me.

have something real neat planned for the IC pipes and the UIM/LIM- stay tuned.



the fabricator who I used said -20 for the radiator , I have a aluminum thermostat housing already so its a matter of welding the fittings on and having the made. I know alot of people have similar set ups o their cars and I know Roan has it on his 700hp "street" car so it works. I have to make sure I can get black -an fittings though, cant have red and blue otherwise I will have them anodized black

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1781372_n.jpg

Crap....i have to wait to get more ideas:lol:....I see alot of cars with -20 but they are mostly drag cars. Hmm...

welcome to the world of BOOST

When the alternator fits INSIDE the turbo, it is time to slow down! :P

nice work!

nice on the vert build