wish I had more to show this year, I have been swamped at work , I am between set ups on the car, and I have a driveway/garage renovation going on


looks like another summer I dont have the car ready until august, lol

cant believe how time flies

anyhow here are some pictures of what I have in mind for the pipes and uim/lim.
it took a bit of work to smooth all the casting marks, the final result will not be black, but I need a good black base to start with.

the last pic is more along the lines of what I am going for

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...284/611005.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...284/611006.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...284/611007.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...284/611008.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...284/611009.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...284/611010.jpg

Im sorta after the same color, Trying to mess with powder coat. Weird we have the same ideas, just dont understand it. I HATE feeling like "copying robs everything" ha. Anyhow, PM :)

i had a long discussion with my powdercoater and he couldnt do it. I offered alot of suggestions to him and he shot them down

besides by painting them I was able to smooth everything out, powder leaves too much peel.

I wanted a diamond black or black chrome look, places that do black chrome wheels wont touch engine parts, its more of a plastic coating they use on the wheels.

final look should hopefully be finished by the end of the week

Can't wait to see the finished product

My god, so clean!

Black chrome :drool: I WILL be ordering some black chrome powder from eastwood one of these days.

I powdercoated all my intercooler piping, and it ends up much more durable than paint does by far. Unfortunately I have AC and power steering still, so the pipe on the driver's side takes a beating every time I have to install/remove it. :(



Very nice progress.

order from powderbythepound?

The paint i use is just as durable as powdercoat, and i used a very good primer over sandblasted parts. And i was able to really smooth everything during the process
I talked to my pc guy about black chrome pc over polished or chrome substrate, doesnt have the look i am going for

the key with this stuff is to have a perfectly smooth very glossy black surface, which is easy on pipes, not so easy on cast manifolds and elbows.
In the one pic you can see where the FD elbow was modified to change the angle of it, I did not like where it routed the intercooler pipe. A wiggins clamp will join the elbow, I hate couplers. Only reason I still have them on the turbo side is because I am not investing anymore money into that turbo set up.

still needs clearcoat.

I will be selling off my currect manifold and injectors set up if anyone is interested, and I still have the shroud and fan that was on my car earlier in this set up is anyone is interested in that. Think its time to stop hoarding parts I am never going to use. Also have a polished greddy FC elbow I will be selling.


also got my upper radiator hose set up, -20 an fittings and weld on bungs. When I do the upper I will see about possibly doing the lower hoses in the future. Have black hose and stainless hose as well. The black hose might be flexible enough I can use straight fittings instead of the 45 degree, so I ordered some straight fittings today as well.

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...84/bchr002.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...84/bchr003.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...84/bchr004.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...84/bchr005.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...84/bchr006.jpg


http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...84/hose001.jpg

odd thing to photograph, but this is the look I had wanted from day 1, a hyperblack or black chrome look. The old set up was close, but not quite what I had wanted

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...84/bchr001.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u.../bchr002-1.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u.../bchr004-1.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...84/bchr008.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u.../bchr005-1.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u.../bchr006-1.jpg

Mmmmmmmmmmmmm:icon_tup:

have to install the new throttle cable.
Have to change wastegate spring too before we can turn up the boost, at 20lbs it then drops off to 15, shame too because it was building good power you can see where it just levels out @ 6200rpm- that is when the boost dropped to 15lbs. Hoping to get in the 415 range when it can hold boost to 7500 rpm or so.

Other dyno graph is on pump gas, boost also drops off, you can see it level out after it was making a nice gain.

still have to install the braided radiator hose, but time is running out for Rotorfest and I wanted the car wrapped up didnt want to start another project just yet.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...80218886_n.jpg


http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u.../IMG_0265r.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u.../IMG_0268r.jpg

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u.../IMG_0269r.jpg

finally the one thing that has annoyed me from the start even with the TII intake is gone, the ugly throttle cable
next will be the radiator hose and thermostat housing, got my wastegate spring on the way so hope the boost issue will be solved.

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...4/IMG_0278.jpg

What's wrong with the radiator hose?

I dont like it anymore

Just get a pink one.

That thing is so clean you could eat off of it!

super clean vert! cant wait to see some more out of these thread

I got my new wastegate spring and wideband. Hoping to get these in next week. Have to take the DP off and have a bung welded on it.

It looks really good, Rob. But every time I see the radiator cap on the stem I can't help but think it looks so fragile and vulnerable. I know it's not it just looks like it is. :scared:

When you do the fancy rad hose will you have to switch to an aluminum thermostat housing? I thought I saw that you would be using AN fittings and assumed the fittings had to be welded on.

What plans do you have for the pulleys? I noticed when we swapped to the Godspeed rad and GM e-fan that you can really see them. And it ain't pretty! I dont know if the e-fan has any cooling benefits or penalties but it sure improves serviceability!

Appreciate your documenting the build.

Very nice. It's sooooo clean. I love it.

the long fill neck is being cut off once I modify the radiator for the new hose, its for the stock shroud style. Now they offer the radiator both ways. I have already have a aluminum s5 thermostat housing and had a fitting welded on it but we decided it would be best to mock the other side up with the radiator and hose in the car so the angle looks good.

the temps in the car are totally regulated by the thermostat opening and the fan. Once the fan comes on the temps come down to 182 or so, temps always range in the 182-192. I have a low temp thermostat to go in so im curious what will happen then.

not following on the pulleys though?

Sorry. You've made the intake gorgeous so I was wondering what were your aesthetic plans for the pulleys. With the mechanical fan and shroud they are pretty much hidden. But the e-fan puts em front and center.

I gotcha now, dont know if you really paid attention to the pulleys but Im pretty sure I have the only car running that kind of set up, ribbed belts including the AC. Dont really mind them in matte black but its something to think about, just not sure if I want them to stand out more or blend in where they dont draw your attention

This is just about what I am doing, this makes me all the more intrigued. Subscribed.

Awsome build

This car is AMAZING !!!!

installed the new wastegate spring and also installed a NGK/ATX wideband. After research and the recomendation from tuners this is the one that was suggested due to its sensor, which you calibrate before installing it.

Hopefully get back to the dyno this week, and hopefully my wastegate holds- its a older HKS and its now missing a small piece that cracked off the flange. If it leaks I will have to replace it.

http://passwordjdm.com/images/Produc...20%20Large.jpg

Well I never got back to the dyno, due to Hurricane Sandy I have actually not driven my car since October when I moved it to higher ground- which was a good thing because I had 2.5' of water around my house.

Anyhow- onto the next project- BIG BRAKES.
13" front, 12" rears using stock calipers
Stay tuned!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...58433796_n.jpg

manifold colour is sooo beeeaauttiifuulll i ruv it :drool1:

Any videos of it running? Great build

great looking engine bay!

Ok well brakes are on.
I would consider process a bit involved. If you are thinking of doing it yourself understand its a bit more difficult than just swapping brakes out. Machining and problem solving are in order.

The ronin kit is very detailed, my machinist read them and modified somethings along the way like using a mill and lathe instead of small grinders- but that is because he had the means to do so.

Supernow rear kit- you get zero instructions with it. Even if there were some floating around they would most likely be in japenese. It gives you the option of standard FD rotors or RZ rotors, I chose standard because as far as I can tell you can only get RZ rotors from mazda and they are expensive- no choices as far as slotted, etc. I have new rear calipers I have to swap in. No modifications are needed to the calipers but some grinding.cutting is needed on the hubs

Running Hawk HPS pads

You can no longer use a standard spare, a RX8 spare fits in the rear ( I didnt try it in front I was running out of time ), and also fits in the stock spare location using original hold down.

I also made a new cooling panel, I had laminated it months ago but never got around to cutting and fitting it. Might still do a little trimming around the edges.

Attachment 663304

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panel

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/u...psa75becb1.jpg

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Attachment 663312

finally got rid of the small rubber hose going to the Bosch 044 pump.
Took some creative use of fittings but its all in there.
Originally I got a fuel safe cable glam for the power wire but it was too big to fit in there. When you have everything back on the stock carrier there is very little space unless you want to lose your fuel level sender.

I was wanting CJ Motorsports to make a custom hanger for us FC guys but there was not enough interested people to go forward with the project.

Big suspension restoration update coming soon, also ran all new fuel and brake lines. I also had my tank sumped and I powdercoated it. I figure when turbo upgrade comes one day I will need more fuel especially running E85 so why not sump it while its all out.

You will need the following for this set up ( note this is for S4 so S5 might need a slightly different set up to allow for increased tank depth )
I will also be using a -6 return line but running a short piece of hose at the tank end to run back into the tank through the stock tube.

-8 90 degree bulkhead fitting
-8 sealing washer
M12x1.5 to -8 adapter for the Bosch pump
-8 union
-8 tube nut and sleeve
JB Weld "Waterweld"- a product made to repair fuel tanks WHILE they are leaking ( I dont believe that but oh well it only needs to keep fuel from sloshing out the hole where the wire passes through.

To fit the bulkhead fitting I had to remove the stock power stud for the fuel pump. No big deal as I wanted to upgrade the wiring to the pump anyhow. This will allow me to run good heavy wire right to my pump relay. Previously I had stock wiring from the relay to the pump itself.

have the tube nut welded to the union. This will allow full rotation for putting it all back together. Be sure to flare a small piece of tubing to go inside the nut and sleeve so it seals properly.
There might be other ways to do all this but this is how I got it done.

Note: in these photos the wire has not been JB Welded yet.

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