its a haltech/gm tps.

 

I'm thinking there is something wrong with the map. Even with my tps unplugged, my engine won't die out, it will just hesitate. Yours doesn't even seem to do so, it dies immediately. You should post your map.

 

If the TPS is wired backwards, it could, depending on how your ECU is set up, go into decel mode. There's a "calibrate TPS" wizard on all Megasquirt tuning software, I can't see why Haltech wouldn't have something like that.

Also, I'm not sure how much experience you have at tuning, but the bins right above the idle area need to be pretty rich to help the transition off throttle, as an aid to the accelerator pump. Also, are your accel enrichments based on MAP, TPS, or is it a combination of both? With my MS2, you can move a slider on the "accel wizard" between TPS and MAP. That allows me to select a percentage between MAP and TPS, to achieve the smoothest transition. If the TPS is no bueno, then see if you can select it over to MAP only.

 

well guys, im a little closer to nirvana. turns out you can calibrate each sensor and wouldnt you fucken know, the calibration for all teh sensors reverted back to the stock map. lame. so i reloaded all the calibrations for all my sensors and the idle turned to ****. WO HOO!!

the way i noticed this is because i was sitting there with the engine not running but the key to on and noticed my map was at -1.9 psi. i was like... no way thats ******* correct. no way in hell. well it wasnt. who knew. lame.

knowing that the transient throttle settings that BDC put out in his sprint re base map was pretty good (some people have mentioned it) i decided to import it from his basemap.

then i loaded my old e6x map and BLAMO, rock solid idle yet again, and a slightly better throttle pump. so now i need to fix the map again so it can recover correctly after a rev

 

so basicely what you are saying is your tps and othere sensers were not calibrated properly?

 

the tps was, but the others didnt have the right calibration maps for some reason. they switched for some reason. i wouldnt know why it would do that, but i set them from the get go.

 

kinda how i felt today

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vm3y1OOYqZc

 

lol ! so basicly you were tuning it with it all out of calibration. well thats good now you know what the problem was now the tuning should go a little smoother

 

well i am also about to move the reference line for the map sensor over to where the fpr gets its reference as well. maybe ill get a better response

 

idk. when I start puting my car back together I want to T my boost/vac gauge in to my map sencer line so if it ever flys off under boost I would know about it right away . but I am worried that T ing somthing else in to my map sencer line would affect its accurisey or responsivenes at all.

 

Use the (separate) stock locations for both the FPR and the MAP sensor.

 

um... heh. i will use one stock location right behind the tb. the bottom reference point in the front behind the TB. right now the map is referencing where the BAC valve used to be. i figure thats a no no spot.

 

I was having troubles keeping an idle, and it turned out to be the strong pulsations in the intake. The ECU is apparently so fast that it tries to account for each and every pulsation, so something has to be done to smooth it out. The tuning software apparently has all those features, but I'm still trying to learn how to use them. I talked to a tuner and he recommended putting a small universal fuel filter in line with the sensing line, as a sort of accumulator. Turns out, he was right, and the tuning became instantly easier, and idle smoothed out so nicely, I could lean it out down to 13, from 10.5! Before it was so erratic that I had to soak the idle in fuel to keep it running. I also didn't lose any noticeable response at all.

 

Stock actually uses a small restrictor in the line. I think mazdatrix even has it. Tiny little piece of plastic.

 

wouldnt matter as the system is now map based not maf based.

 

I know, mine is too. If your map sensor is reading those pulsations, it'll attempt to make changes to correct the idle, and end up making it worse, forcing you to soak it with fuel at idle. Put a restrictor pill or a fuel filter in the line and your tuning woes will magically disappear.

 

ill just move the line closer to the TB. i never had a problem on my e6x

 

sorry i go off on tangents all the time. heh. at one point, my throttle got stuck. that was super scary.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opvgBK_017Y

 

WOW that sounds a million times better! that sounds like its about time to have someone drive you around why you fine tune the fuel map. is that the map that comes on the haltech or what? coz it sounded prity smooth as you reved it up.

 

no, it was a modification to my e6x map. its bdc's map, with the e6x fuel map.

 

thats what I thought. coz I wouldnt think the map that comes on the ecu in the areas you havent tuned yet would run that well.

 

the ecu has no map at all when you get it.

 

it dosent? so you have to fill in all of the load cells in the map with some numbers to get the engine running? I always thought it came with some sort of values on it to at least get the moter started and running.

 

thats what a basemap is for.

 

so I would have to load up bdc's map or somthing like that?