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Thats exactly what I’m talking about it’s ridiculous.
I recently purchased the Denso Fuel Pump Kit made for FC 86-91. It comes with the pump, strainer, and replacement hardware. It was around $120. The same kit for the FD is about $220. Not sure why. Sure it's more expensive than $45, but you'll also have a new OEM pump and strainer.
This is the second thread I read about possible leaks at the O Ring. Still contemplating on cutting the tapered end of the fuel pump sender and use hose clamps like the earlier FC models.
Well I already ordered a denso sock and installed it, I think I’m going to find an o ring at Napa just havent had time put up the Christmas tree today, merry Christmas everyone!
Things have been rather sporradic with the rx7 lately, I decided to fix my other machine since ive been putting it off for a while. I did manage to figure out a couple things.
1: the o ring in the tank leaks less at 30 psi then at 70, thanks to HighTopFade for sending me his used one, my luck the old one blows in the middle of nowhere.
2: with the new almost 40 psi (gained from removing the sock) it is really close to running. It sounds like
As promising as that sounded, it wasn't exactly doing what it should, all the firing was coming from the front rotor, the rear rotor wasn't doing anything. When I did a de-flood no fuel came out of the rear rotor and the plugs werent wet either. This seems like a rear fuel injector problem, even though they were cleaned and flow tested maybe something got in there?
I pulled the upper and middle intake manifold off and I found some evidence of that little fire I had a while ago.
Yea my OMP line is a little fried and the vacuum line that runs over the damper was melted shut. Idk if anyone will buy the other 2 lines Im considering buying the teflon ones from the guy on the rx7 marketplace because they're cheaper.
I also found the source of the fire, there's a puddle of gas in between the intake and the block. The trillion dollar question is where in the heck did that come from?? I think I took the upper fuel rail off at one time and fuel went everywhere, or did I, yea I really don’t remember. Priming the fuel pump shows no leaks at all. I suppose the next step is to clean it all up, check out the rear injector and then reassemble, turn on the fuel pump and give it some time to leak or not leak. Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night! Paycheck? what paycheck?
Check the wiring to your injector clip. You can also test the injector with a 9v battery to see if you can hear it click.
I can’t remember if S5 had the same issue as S4 but the fuel pulsation dampener could be leaking. Either that or you have a leak around your injector grommets or o-rings.
When they were plugged in I was getting 12v through them to the ecu. The clips are new I put them on before I put the engine in, can you wire them backwards?? I do not believe it has the plastic pulsation damper they’re all steel. The o rings are also new but I’m going to pull them out and look for cuts and maybe put a new set in.
Does anyone have experience extracting something from the inside of a motor? If you look at the picture above, there are 2 o rings on the injector. I usually put a rag over an intake like that but for some reason I forgot today. I was trying to remove the lower injector to inspect it and I looked and the o rings on the bottom of the front injector had fallen in. This was a series of very bad decisions and dumb mistakes on my part and now I am in quite the pickle. I was able to suck the larger o ring out of the lower intake but a turn of the engine revealed the upper soft one had fallen in. I can get a full turn and then some out of it, a boroscope shows that about after the tip of the rotor passes it seems to lock up going forward and as soon as it seems to compress back in going in reverse it locks up again. My hypothesis is that it Is riding close to the apex seal on the flat part so whenever it goes to compress it's getting stuck. I haven't had much time to mess with it but my ideas are; a bit of copper tube hooked to compressed air, a bent tube hooked to the vacuum aaaand past that idk. If I could get it to travel into the exhaust zone it wouldn't be that bad I think. Ill keep working at it, just glad its rubber and not a nut or something.
My method for extracting an o ring.
1: pump intake ports full of oil
2: hopefully it rolls backwards to the exhaust stroke
3: verify it’s there with a boroscope
4: get a blow gun and blow in there and hopefully it comes out.
After that the engine rolls over great, though I never found the o ring. I searched each rotor through the exhaust port with the boroscope and felt it with a bit of rubber so as to make sure it wasn’t stuck to the dent. After quite a bit of rotation with a wrench it seems to work great on the starter so hopefully it’s not in there anymore.
Back to business, my rear primary and front secondary don’t click with a 9v battery but the other 2 do click. Not sure how they got this way, I could see maybe one being caused by the fire but the other one was way out of it. However I do have enough injectors to start, all I need is the new omp lines and you know the intakes and the exhaust. It’s 4 degrees F right now but it’ll be 50 degrees next week, ahh western Pennsylvania. Maybe I could drive it around if the oil lines get here and it starts, though that seems a little ambitious. What are you guys thoughts on the Teflon omp lines?
The other injectors I can push the little thing on the tip in(the thing that moves in when if fires) but the bad ones I cannot, is there a way to fix this or do I have to buy a new pair? There it is
soak them in kerosene or something and see if it frees them up. you can buy a tool on amazon that will pulse them and let you spray cleaner through them also.
Will do, they flow tested fine at atkins apparently but now they’re stuck, who knows though, could’ve gotten something in them I have no idea how old the old filter was.
A nice bath in some diesel fuel fixed the one injector(thanks Spider2k), and once I took the cap off the other one it worked perfectly, it seemed like there was some kind of burr in the plastic of the cap that was catching the injector nozzle, so that solves that. I ended up going with OEM omp lines so if anyone needs just the lines for the housing injectors lmk, so that fixes that. After about a half a days work installing, the smell test yielded a lot of gas smell from somewhere under the middle intake. After a quick-ish disassembly it seems to be coming from the pulsation damper, there's no little rubber thing/screw on the end just a hole. After a little bit of research in this thread it turns out they are a problem on both s4 and s5 just in different ways. Correct me if im wrong but it seems like there's no way to fix this without buying a whole new rail and damper thing for $293. Idk if this leak was already there and just grew with every cycle of the fuel pump or if I knocked off the little end piece or if the fire burnt it off. Would you guys like it if I made a few updates into one so it's not so often?
This thread says they're interchangeable n/a to n/a but to put s4 in s5 the damper needs to be relocated/deleted. On Atkins the turbo ones look longer for s5 turbo and the s4 turbo ones look really odd, I think an s5 turbo one might fit t, and looking at my picture it seems like honestly a s4 rail might fit right in there the post was a little confusing what rail they were talking about.
Turns out you can banjo bolt an s5 fuel rail.
At the moment im against the banjo bolt mod but I have the patience of the average BMW driver so it'll be fine for now.
Step 1: put a screw in and cut the end off when it gets tight
Step 2 SAND:
Step 3: Use all the jb weld possible
The only word for this is ghetto, and still needs a long term fix, but it does work. If I was pro banjo bolt I would pull the diaphragm out and lay some tack welds on the hole and call it done.
But I had better things to worry about, like turning the key.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
IT
Yea that smoke was very concerning, but I remembered back to when I washed it with the engine out and sprayed a bunch of water in the exhaust, as well as the corn shooting out the exhaust possibly pointing to a mouse nest. The smoke eventually died down and comes out only the drivers side exhaust pipe at higher revs. The short range tps doesn't pop out, if anyone has a way to fix this it would be much appreciated otherwise im buying a new one. I think maybe I can drill a hole in the end, insert a spring and glue the end back on. But, at the moment its unplugged (don't worry the gas is mixed) and it kinda dies below 1500 rpm, hence me stalling it about 3 times trying not to shoot out of the shop at mach 3. BUT, I DONT CARE IT RUNS.
Got a good heat cycle in, struggled for way too long to get the fan shroud in, it'll sit at about 175F (measured in the hose on top of the BAC valve).
Thanks to all of you guys, I couldn't have done it without you!
And to quote about every Disney movie ever "this is not the end, it is only just the beginning"
That isn't exactly a banjo-bolt, but it certainly seems to have done the job. The engine sounds good to my ears.
I once used MMO to soak my seals while the engine was out of the car for awhile, and it took probably 20-30 minutes before all of the smoke was gone. So any assembly oil or other stuff that has built up in the exhaust may take awhile to completely go away. Just make sure no fluids are dropping and you should be fine
Last edited by WondrousBread; 12-30-22 at 06:34 PM.
I guess by banjo bolting it I meant deleting the damper, ive heard it can cause long term damage/ not running right on the road but right now it runs and seems to hold oil and coolant in their proper places so im just happy for that. Im pretty sure the smoke was at least partially from a mouse nest baking in there, I might have to look into the whole shooting corn thing to make sure there's not more in there.
I guess by banjo bolting it I meant deleting the damper, ive heard it can cause long term damage/ not running right on the road but right now it runs and seems to hold oil and coolant in their proper places so im just happy for that. Im pretty sure the smoke was at least partially from a mouse nest baking in there, I might have to look into the whole shooting corn thing to make sure there's not more in there.
I wouldn't worry about deleting the damper. I've had mine deleted for awhile without any issues.
I would definitely keep the damper (or swap to an aftermarket regulator that includes the damper) if it were a Turbo engine. On a non-turbo engine, the consequences of a momentary slight lean spike from the pulsations is probably unnoticeable, let alone damaging.
12-17-22, 05:19 PM
. Priming the fuel pump shows no leaks at all. I suppose the next step is to clean it all up, check out the rear injector and then reassemble, turn on the fuel pump and give it some time to leak or not leak. Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night!
. What are you guys thoughts on the Teflon omp lines?
