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thats the good good. gonna be more wasted in the tip than he uses lol.
we used to get this stuff at a shop i worked at. it was 3m,black and used a special gun. it mix hot as hell but that **** was invulnerable after a minute or so.
EDIT. i found it. it was called Duramix. it was badass but $$$
edit 2; apparently its what you linked but the stuff i used was black and i remeber it mixed so hot it would burn you.
JB weld "Plastic Bonder" works great .Doesn't necessarily go a long way but no waste in a mixing tip or special applicator gun needed like the 3M.
Thank you guys for all your help! I ended up welding some large washers to the nuts and drilling some holes in them so the glue could get a really good grab. I’m going to have to get creative if I want to redo the lower tabs since they broke off at the base but I have a few ideas already.
Now that I need to keep the top up for a while I was thinking about recharging the AC to see what happens. It has a leak somewhere according to my gauges to I need to add some kind of fluorescent dye to it. I have the gauges the refrigerant but I’m not sure what oil to use.
I know pag oil is used in r134a systems but that seems to say pap. I can’t seem to find any type of pap or pop oil anywhere so my main question to anyone who as messed with rx7 ac is if 8 ounces of pag oil sounds correct before I ruin something.
Its been a while and I do have quite a few things to update I guess I'll start with the AC system.
I bought an o-ring kit from rock auto and replaced most of the o-rings in the system, some were really loose and some were just falling apart. From what Ive read the oil doesn't really come out of the system unless a hose blows it all out quickly or you let it out fast through the gauges or change the compressor. I just kept a napkin over the vacuum pump exhaust to make sure nothing was coming out. It took 2 regular cans and one can of stop leak/uv dye/ 1 oz of oil just to be safe. The AC compressor relay is actually powered by the cigar fuse, mine was blown from bad lighter wiring and after some wraps in tape and a new fuse and it blows ice cold.
The thermowax in this car worked on the first start and combined with the AWS scared me when I didn't expect the 3k rpm warm up, but after that has never worked again. The thermowax doesn't raise the idle and the AWS doesn't know what to do and just lopes like a bridge port. I usually always warm up the car and It would be really nice to not have to sit in it and keep it alive until it warms up so I decided to pull the Throttle body and fix it.
For anyone not familiar with the thermowax, from my understanding in red is the thermowax piston that extends when hot to disengage the cam. In orange is the adjusting screw, and in yellow is the actual cam. The green peg Is attached to the throttle and when the rod is retracted the cam should swing down and push up on the green post, as the car warms up the red piston extends and pushes on the orange screw to raise the yellow cam off of the green roller.
My cam was seized and with a little blaster and some persuasion it came free. Im just now realizing that I forgot to free up the roller but I guess that will have to wait for another day. While it was off I tested the thermowax by pouring boiling water through a hose I attached to it and it does extend and disengage the cam. I believe it needs a little adjustment because when cold it high idle at about 1200 and when it worked it did about 1500 but now it will warm up all by itself so Ill consider that a success.
I have quite a few more updates but that's all I have time for, thanks for reading!
My goal was to have one big update but I got distracted writing the first half and never got back to it. It’s been long enough that the AC has stopped working again but since the weather is starting to cool off it’s not my biggest concern.
Finally the top is done, I started trying to make a how-to video when I did it but I got too confused to continue so all I can say is that it is possible and best of luck to anyone that attempts.
I used permatex windshield silicone around the rear window, and stainless arrow T50 staples to staple the canvas. The permatex silicone was great because the stuff I spilled on the top rubbed right off when it was dry after making me think it was gonna be on there forever.
The car doesn’t want to accept the new top it seems. First time I put it down it went down great but now won’t go up. In manual mode the motors will spin to lower it but won’t spin to raise it. The connector in the engine bay checks out with the right voltages(the white one by the air box) so I know it’s not the switch. I’ve read it’s caused by the relays inside the motors going bad, but nobody has said how to replace the relays so I’m on manual mode right now because I just put all the plastics on and can’t bring myself to take them off.
Todays lesson- things are never as easy as they should be. The wheels when I bought the car were painted grey, and one w I found out there’s chrome under the paint ( the first time I added air to the tires and it flaked off) I wanted to take the paint off. So I listened to the hardware store assistant who told me aircraft paint stripper would take it right off. Well after using it about 3 times they looked like this.
and after days worth of work they looked like this
what I ended up doing was soaking 0000 or 000 steel wool in lacquer thinner and running the paint until it came off. And then I found a full shiny set for sale online for 75$. Oh well.
before
after
I adjusted the tps and now it idles somewhat better, I adjusted it to resistance but and the open resistance is a little too high. But when I checked for 0.1 volts I had 0.01 volts and had to turn the screw quite a bit to get to 0.1. Engine was warm the whole time and I re checked a day later for 0.1 volts and it was spot on. The only time it stalls now is if I’m creeping forward on a hill and I don’t give it a little gas and then only sometimes. Do I need a new tps regardless because of the high wot resistance? Or is it going to be fine and not cause me problems because I can get my 0.1 volts?
either way I’m really happy with the progress right now, the engine gets its healthy dose of premix every fill up, about 0.4 oz per gallon and it’s 8k pull almost every drive both for me and the engine.
The rx7 is officially in winter storage, about 1300 miles on the rebuild if I remember correctly. The main issue to be fixed this winter is that the car is not watertight. The rear window leaks quite a bit, and the side window kinda runs funny in the track and doesn't seat well at all in the top rear corner. The rear window I didn't use any of that glazing compound around the staples because a local upholstery shop told me I didn't need to, I guess that is not the case. I'm thinking about trying some flowable windshield silicone on it, it's very runny and I might get away with not having to take the window out. The side window I'm not quite sure about but I believe the window track is just worn out as the driver's side window wobbles too but a lot less. Now that the actual issues are still not fixed... time to manual swap it. The automatic has been acting weird, it won't engage reverse when cold without a really high rev, and sometimes it shifts really hard and sometimes it shifts suspiciously soft when under power. I was going to just leave it as when warmed up it works just fine, but I came across a transmission, driveshaft, pedals, and clutch hydraulics for 450$ and it seemed like a really good deal. So far I have removed the automatic, installed the pedals, made sense of the wiring, and have some sort of design in my head for a mounting bracket. I'll make another post with more details.
07-12-23, 05:05 PM
. I usually always warm up the car and It would be really nice to not have to sit in it and keep it alive until it warms up so I decided to pull the Throttle body and fix it. 
. While it was off I tested the thermowax by pouring boiling water through a hose I attached to it and it does extend and disengage the cam. I believe it needs a little adjustment because when cold it high idle at about 1200 and when it worked it did about 1500 but now it will warm up all by itself so Ill consider that a success.
